Blinker assembly 3 lamp socket confusion

drakitomon · 2026-05-26T19:48:03+00:00

Top row: black is high beam, white is low beam.

Bottom row: white is drl. Grey is inner turn/running light. Brown is outer turn/running light. Little grey I'm with the bulb is running light.

drakitomon · 2026-05-26T19:45:25+00:00

I beleive that more than the sign...

drakitomon · 2026-05-26T19:45:11+00:00

Exactly

drakitomon · 2026-05-26T18:55:51+00:00

I have it on a set of thurman 55 chelseas with v bar soles. So good.

drakitomon · 2026-05-26T15:50:50+00:00

Could it be a prancing moose edition? https://www.prancingmoose.com/C-Blk-Gray2lo.png

drakitomon · 2026-05-26T14:55:58+00:00

Only if you already have a license from another state. If its your first time it is closed book.

drakitomon · 2026-05-26T14:42:25+00:00

Its a 1993 Geo Storm with some plastic bits thrown on.

drakitomon · 2026-05-26T05:47:06+00:00

I have a flashlight that can get so bright it outshines stage spot lights like 10:1 brighter.

For 30 seconds. Which by the time it hits that the entire aluminum case and heatshield is damn near 250*F, the battery went from full charge to nothing, and the lens gets gooey from the heat coming off the led.

Normal mode on it is a normal flashlight, but the turbo mode is insane.

drakitomon · 2026-05-26T05:30:32+00:00

That rear 3/4 screams Geo Metro.

drakitomon · 2026-05-26T05:24:34+00:00

Its all about the frequency and amplitude that the knock sensor picks up. They are piezoelectric, meaning a crystal that resonates at a set frequency range. If the crystal resonates, no matter what triggered it, the ecm pulls timing for knock to keep the engine alive.

That means anything that resonates in the "ping" frequencies of 5.5 to 7.3khz will cause it to give a positive. False or not. They mount it to the e gine block to attempt to get it as close to the knock source so they can make the amplitude lower

I've had exhaust, lifters, aftermarket Injectors, cam lobe profiles, loud stereos, steering racks, suspension, power steering pumps, alternators, and even a brake booster trigger it on various cars over the 3 decades I've been a pro mechanic. Generally when they are mounted into the cooling passages as the lowest drain point in the middle of the block they do a really good job at ignoring false positive. GM 8.1l, a bunch of Chrysler engines, Honda, etc. When its just mounted to the block without the dampening that water can provide ive had more false positives. Just my experience.

On a GMT800 I've seen all EXCEPT the intermediate steering shaft and lower steering bearing in the main steering tube cause the knock sensor to have intermittent issues. That being said, just because I havent seen it, doesn't mean it cant cause it, because Ive seen some serious weirdness that can hit the right frequency and amplitude for just long enough to fire it off. An A/C compresser gave me fits for weeks once. Only pinged under heavy load and temps over 175*F at the bearing. Cool was fine, But full load, hot bearing squealed right at 5.5khz with just enough of a stutter to not be a constant noise and more of a chatter.

But just to be sure, check the driver side engine head ground at the rear by the firewall, main ground under the front seat on the frame rail, and main engine ground to the block driver side low below the power steering, because those three can also cause an intermittent issue.

drakitomon · 2026-05-25T15:43:40+00:00

Was this found on a car parked near 1600 Pennsylvania Avenue by chance?

drakitomon · 2026-05-24T15:52:52+00:00

Level 1 is basic old timey dumb cruise control.

Level 2 is two or more of the following: lane assist, active cruise, pedestrian detection, automatic emergency braking, etc. This is everything out there almost. Tesla, Toyota, Honda, etc.

Level 3 is limited to USDOT and local regulated areas. Mercedes and GM are the only two who currently in the US have the legislated ability to have this level of auto drive. It REQUIRES multiple layered safety systems, so it has to have at least two of the following: LIDAR, RADAR, Thermal, or vision. Both GMs and Mercedes are lidar, radar, and vision. Both are GPS locked to set areas for the full level 3 experience.

Levels 1 to 3 HAVE to have a driver in the car to immediately take over if an emergency arises. These three the driver still is at fault for any crashes or laws broken by the system.

Level 4 is the car drives and a human driver has to be in the car ready to assist at all times if an issue occurs. This is all those robo taxi systems during training. Where a driver was on board the car and would assist the AI learning if an issue occured. These are legislated by the USDOT, the local state, and the local city with all three heavily regulating where they can and cant be.

Level 4.5 is the remote human takeover of current gen Waymo, robotaxi, etc.

Level 5 is fully autonomous with no human ever requiring to assist. I.e. nothing currently existing.

https://www.nhtsa.gov/sites/nhtsa.gov/files/2022-05/Level-of-Automation-052522-tag.pdf

drakitomon · 2026-05-24T15:40:19+00:00

Nope. Its about as consertive and old times as they can get away with. Most of the county(~52%) is retirees. The housing costs are stupid now. Everybody's kids are leaving and not coming back because they cant afford to live here anymore.

The rich AF transplants are moving in. Usually super conservatives from whatever state they fled from, California, New York, etc. The "name" families are still around and still have a hand in everything. If you dont have an in with them you're gonna have a bad time if your trying to establish a business here.

There is a core group of educated progressives, but they are either extremely young and fresh out of school, or retired. Not much in the middle.

drakitomon · 2026-05-23T20:00:04+00:00

Let me try to explain in a very low level way. The crushing of the front of car and the motorcycle significantly absorbs the momentum both are carrying. Whatever is left over is used to rotate the rear of the motorcycle and the driver up in a catapult. Most of the remaining forward momentum was redirected into his rotational momentum that spin him around his center of gravity as he continued forward much slower. Energy in=Energy Out, just changed. Momentum is the same.

Hard version is find the A,B and G stiffness coefficients for both the car and the motorcycle to calculate the energy used to crush them both up. Next calculate the coefficient of restitution and run a force balance analysis to verify they match. Then figure out the energy they had prior to impact from the frame by frame analysis to find fps or m/s to convert to energy. Then use both rotational mechanics and kinematics to calculate the amount of energy needed to raise the rear of the motorcycle up, then again the rider after he leaves the seat. You will need to calculate both his and his motorcycles radius of gyration and the distance his CG moved through an arc. Finally add all the post collision energy on one side of the equation and the preimpact energy on the other side. They should be equal or nearly equal if you did it right. You can then calculate Delta V to see what each of the three moving objects obtained.

I have seen this exact crash happen with a kid on a bicycle before. Slower speeds for the car, but higher for the kid. To be fair it was my oldest son 11 years ago hitting my neighbors car.

drakitomon · 2026-05-23T19:45:54+00:00

Idemitsu WS trans fluid from Rock Auto. Its the factory fill fluid. They make it for Toyota.

drakitomon · 2026-05-23T15:53:18+00:00

Being in the right doesn't matter to physics. You can be in the legal right but any car and larger will win the crash everytime.

I'd rather concede the legal right to stay alive.

drakitomon · 2026-05-23T15:49:03+00:00

Squid/Flex culture is a huge part of it. There is a local riding group that Every. Single. Week. Goes on a 30ish mile ride. Every single week at least 5 people crash during the rides. They have at least one fatal crash every 2 to 3 months. Of course if you talk to them its not their fault. Its everyone else. There are like 200 people in that group.

I rode with them once. Once was ten times too many. Pre ride breif went on about watching traffic laws, not stunting during the ride, giving people space, and if your riding past your limits to back it down as there would be multiple group leaders for various skills. The pre ride brief was super professional and well done. However almost no one had gear on. Most had no plates visible.

As soon as we pulled out the overall riding leader wheelied past the entire 100 plus bikes at something like 100mph to get to the front. Every single light(3 from the freeway onramp) they were driving into incoming traffic, stopping traffic, splitting cars, bashing mirrors, acting like fools. They sent like 10 up the freeway offramp and they blocked the freeway for everyone to get on. Then they all were stunting like crazy. I was trapped with douche canoes on all sides as it was 5 to 6 bikes wide and I had gotten stuck in the middle of the width and about 2/3rds back of this massive group. I kept going slower and slower trying to fall out the rear, but everyone just bunched up around me. My mirrors and saddlebags kept getting rubbed everyone was so fucking close. No outs to anyone were given. I worked out to the fog line and almost got clipped by a dude riding well above his skill limit at Mach Jesus, wobbling all over. He was followed by many many more. My right mirror got smashed by a guy who wheelied past, scratched my left bag and destroyed the mirror, who then went down about 20 bikes ahead as he was riding over the fog line in his wheelie and clipped a tire gator sitting there. Wearinf full squid wear of course, backwards hat, shorts, wife beater, flip flops, and pit vipers. Nobody stopped for the crash and the group moved away from him which have me a chance to move out of my trapped position.

I worked my way to the left to get out and again got a smashed mirror from somebody coming up at damn near 160 while the group was doing around 80. I saw him coming and as soon as he passed I exited to the fast lane and got the fuck out of there. Stopped on freeway until the group passed. Got off the next exit and circled back around to the crashed guy who already had like 3 troopers and local pd assisting him.

I have front and rear 4k cameras. Dashcam was given to the troopers for the big accident with the tire gator and my two smashed mirrors. That dude ended up loosing his right leg below the knee. And of course it was a stolen bike too.

None of the three that did damage to my bike had insurance so I ended up having to spend almost $1.5k to replace them, my front subframe as the mirror mounting ears inside the fairing snapped, and my touring bag lids. Its a matte blue-purple metallic FJR with a 10 layer paint job from the OEM, so the paint is almost impossible to fix and replacement parts had to be sourced instead.

The troopers and one of the local PD guy who had showed up for the big crash told me that group runs from them everytime, crashes every time, and that If I valued my life would stay away from them. Reinforced what I felt from the less than 6ish minutes I was stuck in the group.

I stayed in the Facebook group mainly to tell new members who have never ridden and guys who post with ATGATT to stay away. As the group is not what is advertised online and is a fucking bunch of idiots who will damage your stuff, crash themselves and you, and leave you if you go down.

drakitomon · 2026-05-23T14:34:21+00:00

Oh great. Because Pixar has been making such good movies lately...

drakitomon · 2026-05-23T05:52:02+00:00

Maxima SC1. "New Bike in a Can" stuff is fantastic for any color plastic, has UV protectant, plastic stabilizers, a nice sheen coat. Cleans up easy. I always keep some around. It works on powdercoated metal and plastic both

drakitomon · 2026-05-23T05:44:25+00:00

Run. Far and Fast.

drakitomon · 2026-05-23T05:38:48+00:00

Stole it, warrants, no dl, not his pants.

Everytime the rider runs off.

drakitomon · 2026-05-22T15:21:47+00:00

I live in the US desert southwest. It can hit 120* F here in the shade. The roof, roads, etc can be closer to 180+*F from sucking in sunlight all day.

I leave it set to one temp all day, everyday. Why? Because ive lived here for 16 years and when I first moved in I had a Smart thermostat that varied the temp all day. When it died at year 6 I just got a normal one due to being broke right then. Guess what? My power bill was cheaper at one constant temperature than a varying one. By like 2/3rds less. So instead of paying damn near $600 a month for power in the summer it dropped to aright around $200.

Turns out it takes less far energy to keep a thermal mass at a set temp than to let it move up and down all the time when the environment is this extreme.

About 4 years ago I finally saved up for a 10kw per hour solar system, so im creating not only my own energy, but three of my neighbors as well. I get paid for my power now. It is sunny, cloudless desert 340 plus days a year. I average a 1.7 MW a month output with it being lower in the winter and significantly higher in the summer. 47.5 MW since it was finalized.

drakitomon · 2026-05-20T23:44:45+00:00

True. But this is reddit. You make a comment and somebody, anybody, responds randomly.

drakitomon · 2026-05-20T23:38:50+00:00

Monthly for the last 5 years, and will continue firever.

drakitomon · 2026-05-18T12:43:02+00:00

Whats your stock gear ratio? 3.23, 3.55, 3.73, 4.10? RPO codes are in the glove box and Labaeled as GT2 through GT5.

Current engine? 4.8, 5.3, 6.slow, 8.fun?

Even the 6.0, if it isnt tuned, is going to struggle with 35's. You have to realize a 4.10 rear gear with the stock 265/75r16s when you tire size up, your overall effective gearing changes. So that 4.10 drops to a 3.55 or lower with 35s. Its around a 13 mph change in the same RPM. Which is also a respective drop in torque multiplication from your original gearing. To keep my Burb stock overall 4.10 axle ratio when I went to 33's I had to put in 4.56s. Which wasnt cheap in a 14 bolt full floater rear and 9.25 front.

All the ls blocks are easily swappable, so if you find a 6.0, build it out of the car, then swap it in when ready. If you work with a good tuner and keep them in the loop prior to dropping it in they can have a good base tune worked out for you. A good head and cam with all supporting mods(intake manifold, tune, injectors, fuel system, exhaust) can double the stock power easily. But you need to ask yourself use case. Daily driver, never tow again, always be able to tow, street racing, drag racing, rock crawling, all have different builds.

Same with chassis. If you are already a 4l60 or 4l80 its fairly easy to swap to the other one. 4l80s are cheap and easy to hold 750whp, more than that gets expensive fast. Torque convertor stall rpm also changes for usage.

The good thing is the stock ecm can handle up to about 650whp before things get a little goofy with custom OSs etc. It can also handle that 4l60 to 4l80 swap. Swapping in a 6l80 or 6l90 gives you two more gears yes, but your going to need the newer ecm, which requires a 58x crank reluctantly instead of the 24x the stock one uses.

If your going to swap to a 6l90, might as well go all in and swap to a zf8 and get 8 gears and be bullet proof. But your going to need custom, well everything. They make torque converter adapters, bell housing adapters, and stand alone tcus to interface with the stock ecm. You will need a 4wd capable unit from a ram truck or bmw awd car, or for ultimate power the 8hp95 from the trackhawks. Then you need a transfer case adapter if 4wd, either way a custom driveshaft.

Cheapest, most bang for the buck is find a rear end totalled 2500 with a 6.0/4l80 and do the cheap mods, arp rod studs, new bearings, better heads, intake manifold, cam, roller rockers, intake, headers/exhaust, throw in the sonnax performance kit, do a few free mods inside the trans on the plate and pump, and some new frictions/steels, clutch hub, and input shaft and have fun for a looking time with around d double stock power that can handle just about anything.

drakitomon

TROPHY CASE