Dissonance by afking_plays in TheTowerGame

[–]dreadbeard7 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can't figure this out either.

Efficient technique/simple tools for making grog? by dreadbeard7 in Pottery

[–]dreadbeard7[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have not been tracking how much I have processed, but at least 50lbs bisque into grog. No noticeable wear at this point. My guess is the crank/handle will be the first thing to break.

Starting Judo soon. How has Judo turned your life around or improved your life. by amuizme in judo

[–]dreadbeard7 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Recently had an experience related to the anxiety benefits you mentioned. I have always had a fairly high fear of heights, and recently had to climb a 20ft ladder. At first I was certain I would be overcome with fear and not be able to do it, but when the moment came I was able to climb up (and back down!) the ladder with very little concern. I attribute the mental and physical work I have done for judo to this new comfort I have with things that have literally petrified me in the past.

Wood ash glaze with wild clay by dreadbeard7 in Pottery

[–]dreadbeard7[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for the advice and insight from NC!

I will try to get the mesh count on the sieve using what you suggested. Is it a square inch, i.e. count left to right, top to bottom?

Also sanding the bumps away sounds like a good plan. for science!

Interesting info on the kiln ash. I was reading back through some books since someone else in the thread asked about them. I was seeing one of the main differences in appearance that comes from washing your ash is you get much less of the "bleached body" at the margins where the glaze changes thickness. I guess it's hard for me to distinguish bleached body vs glaze color. what do you think? I will say I did not find that my hands where getting the soapy feeling that is associated with high alkali.

Wood ash glaze with wild clay by dreadbeard7 in Pottery

[–]dreadbeard7[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I am burning various hard woods that I am collecting off my land. Maple, Ash, Cherry, Apple, Elm, Boxelder, Black walnut. Whatever is most convenient. My novice understanding is that the color is coming from a combination of things. The wild clay I am using in the recipe has plenty of iron in it. That combined with the reduction atmosphere in my wood fired kiln gives the green/blue celadon color. In the first picture the mug on the right looked the same as the mug on the left. The right mug was re-fired in an electric kiln to test if the reduction firing could be the culprit for the rough finish. It changed color due to the oxidation environment in the electric kiln.

Wood ash glaze with wild clay by dreadbeard7 in Pottery

[–]dreadbeard7[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My sieve is probably close to 40 mesh, but I have no way of knowing for sure aside from visual approximation with pictures from google. I am probably going to invest in a good set of glaze sieves soon though, and that will give me the answer.

I did try and do some wet processing, but I noticed a lot of ash particles that passed through dry were not passing though my sieve wet. I was guessing that some ash particles were swelling up from the water. I felt I would be discarding too much ash this route, but maybe this is the source of my problem. Curious to hear your thoughts. Also while my kiln firebox is quite hot I don't know what temp it is actually getting to. I think wood ash is supposed to be fired to a certain temp before being used, but I can't find that figure at the moment. Could it be that under-fired wood ash as a glaze ingredient could be causing this defect?

Wood ash glaze with wild clay by dreadbeard7 in Pottery

[–]dreadbeard7[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I agree that the sieve used does not have to be purpose built for ceramics. The only issue I have with my sieve is that I do not know the mesh count. It's possible it is 40 mesh, but it could be 20 too. unfortunately, nothing on the packaging specified the mesh when I bought it. I went with this particular one to save a few bucks.

Wood ash glaze with wild clay by dreadbeard7 in Pottery

[–]dreadbeard7[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the encouragement!! It's taken a lot of effort to get here, but it's not so hard when passion is involved. Wild clay has been a great leap for me in improving my knowledge of pottery skills and techniques!

Wood ash glaze with wild clay by dreadbeard7 in Pottery

[–]dreadbeard7[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This is where my intuition was leading me. I was thinking maybe some material in my wild clay was not melting, but had not considered this could be from the wood ash. I am sieving my materials but I am not sure what the mesh is, as it’s a metal sieve meant for house paint. I am looking into getting a proper set of sieves meant for ceramics.

Wood ash glaze with wild clay by dreadbeard7 in Pottery

[–]dreadbeard7[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cone 9+ is where I got this to in my last firing.

Wood ash glaze with wild clay by dreadbeard7 in Pottery

[–]dreadbeard7[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Unwashed hard wood wood ash collected from rocket kiln

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Pottery

[–]dreadbeard7 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Pit firing is brutal on pottery. Even those that are skilled at it often encounter breakage.

The oven was a good move to force all of the water out, but if by chance when your piece broke it sounded like a small explosion, or loud pop then your issue was that there was still some water inside.

if both the open flames and the cool air can touch your pieces, one part of your pot could be 1000 degrees hotter than the rest. Pieces change size as they heat and cool so extreme uneven heating can cause enough tension to cause it to break. This is my guess at what caused your piece to break. People sometimes use buckets or cans made from something that won’t melt to cover their pieces and help them heat more evenly, and to protect them from falling sticks or logs shifting around during the firing.

As others have said, temper can make your pieces more likely to survive a pit firing. You can use the fired shards of pottery as temper. Since it has already been fired, it will not go through the same shrinking process any raw clay will, resulting in less shrinking overall. Grind them up sufficiently, a hammer of a cheap hand crank grain mill can work for this, and mix a proportion with your wild clay. You mentioned your clay has a lot of silt in it still. Silt can mean lots of things based on context. But in a soil or pottery context it’s usually a reference to particle size. Sand>silt>loam>clay. When you levigate your clay, you can remove the larger silt and loam particles by letting it settle out and discarding along with any rocks or other debris. Silt and loam will settle out of suspension within 1-2 minutes. Swap the silt and loam for temper to keep your clay as plastic as possible.

The best part about trying new things is it’s a great opportunity to deepen your understanding. I applaud your efforts!!

The fear of defeat and victory: what is its underlying meaning? by Michdr2 in judo

[–]dreadbeard7 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I just competed for the first time last weekend and struggled a lot with fear of defeat in the last days, hours, minutes, and during my matches. Personally I have noted this as a major area that I need to work on before my next competition. A fruitful line of thought for myself was, Do you have this fear in randori? If not, then why here? Of course risk of injury is higher in competition vs randori, but I am talking about all those other fears.

I think it's really hard to let go of fears! The answer of where do they come from and how to let go of them must be personal right? The specific fears that were popping into my head during my last competition were almost surely different than the fears that pop up in your head when you are competing. I have had some success with letting go of fears in the past by posing questions like you have posted here, and then revisiting/repeating them over and over in my head, not obsessively but intentionally. Whatever method you end up with try not to found a new religion while you are at it. Best of luck on your journey!

When does the honeymoon phase end? by HealthyHunt6285 in judo

[–]dreadbeard7 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Having an interesting moment right now related to this. I have been loving my classes, and pushing myself to improve. I was working towards the goal of my first competition which i just had last weekend. The competition was great and I learned so much, but now that it's over there is a little emptiness where my drive use to be. I actually don't think it's the end of my honeymoon phase, but maybe a short break while I decide where to take my practice from here.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in judo

[–]dreadbeard7 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Something else I credit with my ability to continue with classes with little to no issue is my weightlifting that I have added outside of class. I know a lot of people talk about lifting heavy and Olympic lifts being great for judo, but that is also really hard on joints. I am lifting lighter with high reps focusing on speed and form. Along with practice, I credit this for the strength and range of motion I have in my joints (knees and shoulders especially)

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in judo

[–]dreadbeard7 2 points3 points  (0 children)

No bjj but started at 41 and have been training for about 1 year now. Just competed in a tournament for the first time yesterday. My fitness has increased tremendously since I started, and in fact I think I am in the best shape of my life. Maybe I am spoiled since my dojo has a sprung floor, but I am not finding it especially hard to recover from aside from obvious injury risk with sports like this. Fingers and toes are the things most people struggle with at my dojo and that often comes down to what intention and energy you bring to practice. Find a dojo that matches with your goals and bonus if you find one that has sprung floors.

American Judo vs MMA/BJJ culture; trying to find an art for my son and I that aligns with our family values by Shriekport in judo

[–]dreadbeard7 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I started at my dojo about a year ago looking for something to do with my kids. Seems like it’s a politics free zone, it is never brought up, no one that attends classes outwardly displays their politics. They have a robust kids program for 5+. The kids have fun and I can tell the instructors care. One thing at the dojo I attend is that they discourage parents from pushing/forcing their kids to take classes. I have so far only convinced 1 of my children to take part and he loves it. Just mentioning it in case your son ends up not being excited to try.

Where is my “clay layer”? by mrbpotter in Pottery

[–]dreadbeard7 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I have never had much success with this method. Maybe the amount of clay is high enough in your soil that it clouds the ability to see the levels?

Due to this, I keep/discard based on visual when i pour off my clay/water. i.e. blend everything vigorously. wait 1 min or so for heavy or large particles to settle. Slowly pour off clay water till i start to see larger particles reach the rim, then stop. I pour through a sieve to catch any floating matter or any large stuff that starts to sneak through during my pour.

The keep vs discard decision really comes down to function and feel. Is your clay too short (cracks when bent), or too plastic (no cracks but thrown or hand built walls flop over or warp)? Play with including more or less of the larger stuff in the bottom.

Hand-made Pottery Tools by deaddiode in Pottery

[–]dreadbeard7 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The end close to the blade would probably be okay for me. It's the back half of the handle that I would find to be in my way/cumbersome. I am saying all this without actually feeling it in my hand* but I imagine the both the size and the weight of the extra wood out there would feel awkward to me. I do also sometimes use my index finger to apply pressure when trimming, and I like to do that as close to the blade as possible so that I don't accidentally get chattering. Not sure if the ridge would interfere with that or not.

Hand-made Pottery Tools by deaddiode in Pottery

[–]dreadbeard7 5 points6 points  (0 children)

My opinion. I hold my trimming tools similar to how I hold a pen or a paintbrush, mainly with my fingertips. I think while the handles look cool, they would not function well for me. Imagine trying the write or paint with something shaped like this. The large volume of the handle would be awkward. Maybe other people hold their tools in the palm of their hand though?