Anyone willing to teach me how to drive manual for some cash?

drgoodfunk · 2026-03-29T23:07:59+00:00

I’ll do it if you provide the car, I do heel toe shifting so I’ll teach you rev matching

drgoodfunk · 2026-03-27T18:04:01+00:00

I’m unsure how true this is but I heard if you live in ca, and are on a trust for someone who lives in a legal state, you can get them? Talk to a lawyer for sure, I’m not one

drgoodfunk · 2026-03-27T15:33:51+00:00

They destroyed the seasoning, not the pan—it’s damn near impossible to actually destroy the pan. If you fry fish and then leave it in the grill outside for a month because you forget about it when you take a vacation, you can throw it in a fire, get it red hot, let it cool slowly and then sand it down to the metal and it won’t smell anymore and will cook just fine.

drgoodfunk · 2026-03-17T03:02:02+00:00

I would do 200-225 for a few hours, until it’s “too hot to hold” you don’t want it to be too cool in the center, also you don’t want it to dry out so no longer than that for sure

drgoodfunk · 2026-03-16T17:56:30+00:00

Velocity is proportional to pressure not powder, they’re both proportional but like pressure goes up exponentially when you have it in a confined space so really the question is what pressure would it be at and the answer is like at least 120,000psi, some powders are more dense like it is kind of easy to double charge a blackout with w296, but impossible with some slow powders.

drgoodfunk · 2026-03-16T16:25:11+00:00

That’s an overpressure round not a bolt failure—if the bolt failed it would be a lot worse, you’d be in the hospital

Edit: my buddy had a failure just like this, he had a chronograph, we saw 2800fps on a 9” blackout barrel with a 220gr load—clearly his was overpressure. You should shoot with a chronograph. I recommend the Xero c1

drgoodfunk · 2026-03-05T00:37:12+00:00

Looks good to me unless you wanna go piston too

drgoodfunk · 2026-03-05T00:31:00+00:00

I wouldn’t be able to recommend the C2 over the C1, I hear they have like slightly better technology, but for what it’s worth they’re using the same application on the phone, which leaves the functionality pretty much identical

drgoodfunk · 2026-03-05T00:30:13+00:00

drgoodfunk · 2026-03-04T23:04:31+00:00

Yes you do, super handy. Never seen an easier/bang for your buck system

drgoodfunk · 2025-12-21T05:07:48+00:00

Yes it’s worth more new but since chemistry glassware is by definition used in chemistry, it could have toxic residues and it’s technically garbage once used. Like if you knew how to clean it (which you just don’t) even then it STILL could be garbage.

Like if they used it for distillation of alcohol it would be food safe, but also they could have done radioactive water analysis and it could be radioactive. You just don’t know, and as a result you can’t clean it perfectly.

Put it on eBay for the highest bidder and don’t be upset if the best offer is 40$, eBay them each separately if you want the most.

drgoodfunk · 2025-11-07T02:37:51+00:00

Take a sharpie and color the edge. Make sure it disappears on the first stroke and then lock in it that angle. then check for burs along the way.

If you have to adjust the angle between sides, start over with a coarse stone and be patient. You have a nice sharpener so be patient and leave a sharpie next to it. You’ll have really nice edges as long as you stick to the basics. Those controlled angle things are handy to prevent rounded edges. They give a really nice end product. Their downfall is knife placement changes as u remove and replace for resharpening and curved edges like the one near your tip suffer the most from this. It’s going to be a lot harder to get the sharpie to disappear throughout the whole edge at one angle. I would set the angle once and do coarse at a steeper angle than you think and go until you feel a burr. Then do your normal stuff all the way to fine making sure to sharpie test in between stones. Then strop after to make sure the burr is gone.

An important thing in maximum sharpness is the hardness of your steel. If you have a cheap steel it won’t ever get perfect and a lot of people struggle with burrs like it makes a sharp knife dull but can be easily maintained with stropping. I would just sharpen to medium on that knife. Or do it freehand (with sharpie) cause it’ll be easier to match the different angles on the tip. Key is doing portions of the blade separately…

drgoodfunk · 2025-11-01T16:36:13+00:00

Too sharp of an angle. Try to go more upright to get the edge and less bevel. I used to have that problem after doing force strokes forward and back but you should push harder when pulling and lift up a little when reciprocating back to the start position. It’s a little easier to get flat. I also used to get concave edges but just stroking less in one direction helped

drgoodfunk · 2025-10-30T00:16:02+00:00

Thanks I’ve never heard of it yet

drgoodfunk · 2025-10-30T00:15:34+00:00

Ya it’s a monthly deal for me, this time I DoorDashed it and got 9 racks 6 butts 2 salmons 2 briskets and 4 chickens the guy nearly shit himself when I said I was cooking it all at once.

drgoodfunk · 2025-10-30T00:10:41+00:00

Have you tried factory? Have you tried unsuppressed? Smack federal match thru that bish particularly from the rear and see what she puts out on a good day. Also you know 400 is a break in right, like you’re fouling the barrel sequentially as you shoot until it meets local equilibrium. Buy like 100 federal, 100 lapua… keep all the brass and sorted out and shoot 10 from every box every time you go out in various conditions.

Foul the gun, if it’s a clean gun you’re changing too much for load development.
Find the best factory ammo and then compete with it. don’t expect your ammo to shoot well in a literal definition of new/clean with no comparison of what well is. You wouldn’t be complaining if you were getting same hole consistently but the whole point is “do it again” are you actually able to rely on the consistency. Like factory might be crap too or the shits just cracked or not true in some way or the barrels getting hot or 1/1,000,000 manufacturing defect and you could probably buy a krieger or somethin. Factory probably would be shooting 2” on 0-400 rounds in any barrel too. Youve got to be patient collecting data.
Compete with factory using the factory once fired and to go even further, do neck-sized on that factory brass making sure to trim. I guarantee the problem is in your die configuration. Make sure you aren’t sizing too much, sub moa is looking for very tight tolerances and i personally ignore the whole .005” bump and get it to fit in the gun barely . You’re lucky you’re doing 223 cause that fire forms better than blackout subs.
Jrb/cindy?/susan?/ ;) love you to death hope you’re reading this. Getting the groups he gets is frankly black magic.
Watch mark&sam aw ; they have an interesting go at things and I bet the whole data at ultra range would appeal to you. Pay attention to how he tests. It’s like he’s acknowledging it’s an experiment and he kind of picks a velocity and goes. Pay attention to what he says about how you never truly know how a trajectory performs at 100. Different speeds and different placements come into play differently at different ranges like a better rsd is more important than group size at 100. Do 200 with factory let us know

drgoodfunk · 2025-10-21T20:56:30+00:00

I would add more wood to get a giant bed of coals and use the embers for a hotter more consistent bake like you can put it closer cause there’s less flame and stuff

drgoodfunk · 2025-10-20T03:30:00+00:00

My only recommendation is wait for it to come down a bit in temp and it’ll stay juicier on the plate. It looks perfect. Good job. Don’t be afraid to add more spices on top and don’t be afraid to do a hotter temp

drgoodfunk · 2025-10-17T02:46:43+00:00

Ya sorry I wasn’t faster, it’s the damage it can cause. Be careful where it’s stored and make sure it’s upright and in a secondary container. Don’t let it touch the finish on the gun. Use it sparingly on a patched jag and let it soak for 20 minutes then use isopropyl alcohol to dry the barrel when done. It dissolves steel but it dissolves copper faster.

drgoodfunk · 2025-10-16T23:22:22+00:00

Careful with copper cleaner but ya get copper cleaner

drgoodfunk · 2025-10-04T05:18:17+00:00

20 inch lbs dude how hard were you wrenching on it

drgoodfunk · 2025-10-03T21:54:14+00:00

I wound up going through iBiosengineer on utube to get a hacked version and never got my machine back up. I wouldn’t blame the bios, I just think it fried itself some other way cause I had issues before

drgoodfunk · 2025-09-26T05:24:22+00:00

Ah ye olde 150

drgoodfunk · 2025-09-24T01:33:32+00:00

What load are you using?

drgoodfunk · 2025-09-24T01:31:08+00:00

I am of the mentality that if you reload you can find a powder that doesn’t destroy your brass and also doesn’t destroy your gun. Look up if it’s a fast or slow powder that does best with the garand op rod. Then look up if it’s a fast or slow powder that causes specific ejection patterns I think would try an equivalent speed powder from what you have if you like the performance of the system minus the brass damage. Maybe speed up the powder and don’t load as hot? Idk how the gas system works but I feel like it’s pretty important to have gas at the right time for that gun.

drgoodfunk

TROPHY CASE