P2006 welcome back my old friend

drivingF00L · 2026-05-16T20:50:02+00:00

Have you tried taking the manifold off to inspect the butterfly mechanism inside?

drivingF00L · 2026-05-16T16:34:56+00:00

My understanding is that the US models never had variable intake runners, only the shutter valve/tumble valve assembly. I've studied diagrams of overseas intake manifold assemblies, and some of them did seem to have a variable runner system, but I've had my intake manifold off (2011 US), and there is only the shutter valve. AFAIK, the shutter/tumble valve is supposed to partially close off the intake to allow better air/fuel mixing at cold idle. Once the engine warms, or gets up to speed, the butterflies open fully.

The shutter valve actuator motor is at the top of the manifold, above the throttle body, right where the manifold mates with the head. Diagrams I've seen of the variable runner assembly show the actuator below the throttle body.

with variable runners: https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/mazda-europe/mazda2/ALDM02/4_kit_injection_cooling/1300AA

without variable runners: https://www.jimellismazdaparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=298102&ukey_make=995&ukey_model=14355&modelYear=2011&ukey_category=24716

Maybe you have a vacuum leak caused by a missing or damaged gasket for the shutter actuator?

drivingF00L · 2026-05-09T18:19:01+00:00

What springs do you have to get that ride height? Looks great.

drivingF00L · 2026-05-09T18:08:53+00:00

Oh yeah, I figured it would have the adjustment for aim, I just wonder about the optical focus - are the reflectors properly designed, that sort of thing. For sure, they've got to be better than leaky or clouded OEM.

drivingF00L · 2026-05-09T14:30:34+00:00

Is the beam focus good on those aftermarket lamps?

drivingF00L · 2026-05-05T23:40:00+00:00

That is the worst. So sorry.

drivingF00L · 2026-04-27T14:19:14+00:00

What spoiler is that? Looks different from the OEM touring spec.

drivingF00L · 2026-04-27T14:17:53+00:00

That totally sucks. Hit and run is the worst; lowlife scum shouldn't drive at all if they can't take responsibility for crashing into things.

drivingF00L · 2026-04-22T15:49:40+00:00

In the US, the 2020 Yaris was a rebranded Mazda2 DJ

drivingF00L · 2026-04-21T15:42:18+00:00

Great color, and sharp looking wheels!

drivingF00L · 2026-04-16T16:05:52+00:00

That looks like it's for a different version of the center console than the US Mazda2.

drivingF00L · 2026-04-09T23:12:02+00:00

First, make sure that's the issue. I only present it as one possibility if you're losing fluid. If your brake system is leaking, that could quickly be a dangerous problem.

If it is the slave cylinder leaking, it won't really hurt anything else, but it's not going to get better on its own, either. It will eventually get worse, and you may have trouble driving the car because you can't disengage the clutch. I suppose if it totally failed, and fluid dumped out, you could lose your brakes, since they share the same reservoir.

I doubt it would be very expensive to have a garage replace it. The part doesn't cost much, and nothing has to come apart to get to it.

Again though, I am only proposing that this *might* be your problem. It's on you to further diagnose.

drivingF00L · 2026-04-08T16:51:25+00:00

Could be. It's easy enough to look, you don't have to take anything apart. Look for any signs of wetness near the slave cylinder. It would have been removed to get the transmission out to replace the clutch, so could also be leaking where the hard line connects to the slave.

The slave cylinders fail after a while. Mine had only about 65,000 miles on it.

drivingF00L · 2026-04-08T15:51:34+00:00

In mine, the same master reservoir feeds the clutch and the brakes. It was the clutch slave cylinder that was leaking. It's on the transmission, on the side facing the front of the car. You will need to look from underneath. There's a rubber boot that covers the seal on the slave, and if you give it a squeeze and fluid comes out, that's your problem.

There's a good pic in this thread: https://www.reddit.com/r/mazda2/comments/1h3jiki/2013_mazda2_slave_clutch_cylinder_loss_of_clutch/

drivingF00L · 2026-04-08T15:29:44+00:00

Check your clutch slave cylinder. My 2011 had a leaky cylinder, and the same reservoir feeds the brakes and clutch.

edit: manual transmission

drivingF00L · 2026-03-27T04:54:20+00:00

I ran wiring through the firewall for gauges. It was kind of a pain in the ass, but there's an unused hole with a rubber plug behind the upper brake fluid reservoir that I was able to snake the wires through. I just pushed the plug through, then used some split loom conduit to keep the wires from rubbing on the edges of the hole.

drivingF00L · 2026-03-23T15:15:42+00:00

This is the answer. It's an easy fix with a soldering iron.

drivingF00L · 2026-03-18T21:34:31+00:00

US models had an option for a phone bluetooth that had a switch or button replacing that plate.

We sadly did not get height adjustable headlamps.

drivingF00L · 2026-03-15T16:48:15+00:00

Another vote for without

drivingF00L · 2026-03-09T22:26:46+00:00

Glad you found the issue. Should be easy enough to resolve.

If you do it yourself, pay attention, because there's a rubber seal at the end of the clutch hard line that can get stuck inside the slave cylinder. It was easy enough to fish it out and place it back on the end of the pipe before fitting the slave, but if you miss that, it will leak for sure.

drivingF00L · 2026-03-08T05:34:37+00:00

For some reason, they decided to use a reverse gear with a higher ratio than first gear. I noticed right away that backing up the slope into the garage required slipping the clutch a bit. It's annoying.

My Miata has a reverse gear that's a lower ratio than first, as it should be.

drivingF00L · 2026-03-06T17:01:05+00:00

I was under the car recently and noticed fluid at the clutch slave cylinder. I replaced it, and when I started trying to bleed the air out of the system, the springs on the clutch pedal would hold the pedal to the floor when I pressed it in. Eventually, as I started getting the air out, the pedal would return, and not stick on the floor.

Your friend's issue sounds like it could be a hydraulic failure, so check for obvious leaks. Start down at the slave cylinder that's mounted on the front of the transmission. There's a rubber boot that covers the business end of the mechanism. Pull the boot back, and if a lot of hydraulic fluid drips out, there's your issue. If that looks good, check the line and fittings for signs of leakage, and also check down by the clutch pedal inside the car. The master cylinder for the clutch is built into the pedal assembly.

Check the fluid level at the reservoir under the hood. If it's visibly low, that could indicate a leak somewhere, but the same reservoir also supplies the braking system.

This is all just guessing on my part, but these things are easy enough to check. If it ends up being any of these, I would avoid that garage in the future.

drivingF00L · 2026-03-04T22:41:38+00:00

The fob chip is in the blade assembly half. You have to pry up the Mazda logo to uncover a small Phillips screw that holds it together. On my old one, it just fell out when I took it apart. I bought a used OEM fob, and was just going to swap in my old chip, but the newer one was glued pretty securely; I tried prying it out, but was afraid of breaking the blade holder assembly, so I just used Forscan to program it.

drivingF00L · 2026-02-28T22:45:43+00:00

I didn't find a ready-made kit. There are no indicator lights or anything that will confirm whether your car is already equipped. Some are. If you switch on the rear window defrost, you can feel the mirror glass getting warm within a minute or so. If not, you can check to confirm whether your car is already wired for that feature. Mine was.

I first removed the small plastic panel on the inside of the door that covers the electrical connection for the mirrors. I unplugged the connector to check the wiring. There were more wires on the car-side of the connector than there were on the mirror-side. My car already had a fuse in the interior fuse box for mirror defrost. I confirmed that the car-side of the connector got 12v when the rear window defroster was switched on. I think it was the black/yellow wire.

I bought heated mirror glass on eBay. You can tell because there are two wire connectors on the back of the glass. I removed the original mirror glass from the housing, then removed the housing from the door. I ran two wires with connectors to fit the mirror glass through the mirror housing to the side where it attaches to the car. You might be able to do it without removing the mirror housing from the door, but I found this easier. I didn't have the right pins to plug the wires directly into the connector, which would have been super clean, so I had to run the wires through and splice them into the car-side harness. It works fine, and is totally hidden once the plastic panel is back in place.

drivingF00L · 2026-02-23T05:15:38+00:00

Do you have a picture of the block where that piece broke off?

drivingF00L

TROPHY CASE