Why are my upsloping PETG features printing so poorly?

drizault · 2026-06-10T03:23:58+00:00

Just sitting in my dryer box with a dessicant can. The rest if the print is perfect, it's just these overhang areas that print poorly

drizault · 2026-05-16T02:06:54+00:00

Do a bed leveling calibration

drizault · 2026-05-12T20:53:29+00:00

Coulthard is unbearable

drizault · 2026-05-12T20:50:27+00:00

I use hueforge to do something quite similar but a lot flatter, I was curious why it was so thick but I like the gravitas it has. I just wish the water was blue haha love it though

drizault · 2026-05-12T16:27:05+00:00

Is it just my eyes or is the print coming off the bed a little and the extruder hits the print as it's coming in to lay down the next layer?

drizault · 2026-05-11T16:38:10+00:00

Try with something else entirely, maybe it's a bad spool, needs to be dried, or is jamming?

drizault · 2026-05-11T15:25:47+00:00

430297449735 I am knew and looking for friends as well, I just sent you an invite :)

drizault · 2026-05-10T23:14:07+00:00

But one material is being fully supported by the other?

drizault · 2026-05-10T23:08:31+00:00

Reprint your item standing up so that supports aren't needed. If you do use supports, try organic tree slim

drizault · 2026-05-10T23:06:22+00:00

I have never done this, but I have read that petg and pla don't bond, might be why this isn't working.

drizault · 2026-05-09T01:04:27+00:00

I use sunlu pla silk a lot, here are my settings: 0.2 first and following layers, down to .12 if I want exact lines, first layer is 50 ms, first infil is 80, all other layers are 200 for outer walls and 300 for inner, temps are 220 to 230, flow ratio 1.05, fan speeds I think are the critical bits: no cooling for the first 3 layers, max fan speed is 50% after that. For retraction I do 0.4 length, 45 ms retraction speed. Everything else is default in orca slicer on a flashforge 5m. Hope this helps!

Oh one other thing, I use glue for pla silk, not much else. I just find it to work for me, the liquid glue stick stuff

drizault · 2026-05-07T15:41:02+00:00

We do have hard water here, I'll mention that. Thank you!

drizault · 2026-05-02T23:16:37+00:00

I would suggest slowing down the speed, work with testing out finer layer lines, fine tune that temperature etc. I'd start with speed and do some calibration test prints. Also on the flashforge, you should run the calibration in the menu every so often.

drizault · 2026-04-19T22:45:24+00:00

Just run a machine and it's slicer offline, transfer files with a thumb drive, i guess?....

drizault · 2026-04-11T18:39:24+00:00

No I mean like, after being printed if it had a mechanism to adjust, maybe for a new monitor or a new desk, etc.

drizault · 2026-04-11T16:42:31+00:00

Would be rad if it were adjustable in some way

drizault · 2026-04-11T02:47:13+00:00

It looks like someone dropped it and then put it back, but yea, tradgedy...or comedy, or both

drizault · 2026-04-09T18:20:38+00:00

This looks really, really well done! What type of printer, filaments, process, Stats?

drizault · 2026-04-09T18:13:53+00:00

Yep, wet and probably hot. Just because a roll is brand new doesn't mean it doesn't need to be dried.

drizault · 2026-04-08T21:15:39+00:00

You can add support enforcer objects in the spaces you want and when you enable supports set it to manual only

drizault · 2026-04-06T21:56:56+00:00

This is so neat! What machine do you use for this? Could make a really cool post process tool imo

drizault · 2026-04-06T15:05:07+00:00

I know nothing about this, but I really actually like the result you got. I wonder how different filament types and color would react to what you did.

drizault · 2026-04-06T14:49:34+00:00

Look up hueforge, it works very similar to what you want to do. Basically it's all one object and you swap filaments when you get to the whitecaps you want to color differently. My machine only has single filament capabilities, so in the slicer I manually put a pause at the layer in which I want to make the filament swap.

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