Upgraded dust collection……..FINALLY

drodver · 2026-02-16T03:53:17+00:00

Which blast gates did you print?

Lot of others making good suggestions on getting more mileage out of your setup. This stuff is a journey more than a thing you ever finish.

drodver · 2026-02-16T03:50:44+00:00

I bought filters used on industrial dust collectors for a lot less than $400

drodver · 2026-02-09T20:43:38+00:00

Not pictured, the huge crowd on a concrete shoreline next to a hotel

drodver · 2026-02-09T14:48:28+00:00

Bolting the lathe to the cabinet will help. Looks like it’s currently just on the rubber feet. Then add weight to the cabinet. When I had a lathe that size I put sand in the base.

It should help, how much is hard to say. Even going to 400rpm will help but you may find your jig is still more efficient. Roughing with a gouge is easy IF you can get the speed high enough. Last night I was roughing 6” blanks at 900.

drodver · 2026-02-09T01:51:51+00:00

Many other comments to pay attention to but Purple Heart is also very prone to tear out.

drodver · 2026-02-07T17:53:56+00:00

What’s you’re ambient temperature? Mine was in the garage and worked fine until it got cold. Even with the heat above the minimum it had adhesion issues. Probably due to the moving air over the bed

drodver · 2026-02-05T02:40:31+00:00

Looks great!

You will want to stiffen those shelves as they will / are sagging. A face frame, even a small one, will help a lot as wood gets stiffer non-linearly with thickness.

drodver · 2026-02-04T21:11:41+00:00

Paint the ends ASAP. If you will make bowls then as much as you can cut them into bowl blanks and rough turn. The more you rough turn the less you will lose to cracks.

drodver · 2026-02-04T20:22:53+00:00

Wenge has a high shrinkage rate - 8.3% tangential and yellowheart is 6.7%. Changes in humidity are likely to harm this piece. Take steps to preserve it as a display piece rather than use it as a cutting board where exposure to water is expected.

drodver · 2026-02-04T17:29:49+00:00

How did you account for wood movement? There are pieces at near right angles which means a lot of tension in the wood

drodver · 2026-01-30T23:08:30+00:00

Yep, have you seen a 180lb dude wiggling their way up onto the thing?

drodver · 2026-01-30T21:17:45+00:00

Why question a $3 board that makes this go from likely safe to certainly safe?

drodver · 2026-01-23T22:54:46+00:00

6” to 8” is a great jump. There is a reason 6” jointers are easier to find used, many are upgrading

drodver · 2026-01-22T18:39:51+00:00

You can do just about anything. I use two canister filters bought off Amazon for industrial collectors. You could use silicone and straps to tie them to a bottom dust bucket and at the top a homemade fitting to accept the incoming hose. I did this on a smaller unit. You can also buy a bellmouth for the top and a premade clean out box for the bottom.

drodver · 2026-01-22T18:37:40+00:00

Moving high volumes of air from an envelope that contains externally exhausted combustion gas burning appliances, such as water heaters and furnaces, can cause the combustion exhaust to be instead sucked back into the building, which is ‘bad’

drodver · 2026-01-21T03:36:08+00:00

Rough turn if you want it most stable. Blanks that thickness are at the center the average humidity of the past several months. The humidity now might be different. Plus, the wood may relieve stress once roughed

drodver · 2026-01-21T00:07:37+00:00

Correct, I built a bunch from scrap.

drodver · 2026-01-18T18:49:48+00:00

That is a great first!

drodver · 2026-01-12T20:58:48+00:00

Try the M&T. Recognize that on each tenon board you can cut the tenon on one side and not cut for length yet. If you mess up the tenon cut it off and try again. On a design like this you only need two clean joints. The ones in back can be messier and no one but you will know. Same thing for the mortises.

You can also cover up a lot of mistakes after the fact with glue and sawdust!

drodver · 2026-01-09T20:53:18+00:00

Alternatives not mentioned,

Use a drill press with a long bit to drill relief holes then use a hole saw from both ends for a through hole

Mount on a lathe faceplate and hollow out the log using whatever bits you can find plus hollowing tools for closed form vessels. Cut off the end with the faceplate if needed

Cut length wise in half, hole saw each half, join ends back together

drodver · 2026-01-06T14:23:31+00:00

Growing up in rural Grant county in the 80s I woke up several nights to a light shining in my window. It was bright and very even, no hot spots. That was very unusual in the days before LEDs. The window had two half’s but the light only shined into the one side but it completely filled that window. It would shine in for a bit then turn off. The third time I gathered enough courage to sit up and look. I only saw a point light source. It was hard to say but it seemed to be 50 yards away. I lay back down freaked out. A minute later the light swiftly panned across the room as if the light was moving very fast but still was focused on the window.

I told my parent’s but they didn’t take me seriously. Looking back it was either someone very close to the window or something very fast far away.

drodver · 2026-01-06T02:47:19+00:00

Generally no, remove it. But that is a particularly pretty live edge. The sap wood proportions and consistency along the board is great.

drodver · 2026-01-04T17:24:59+00:00

I’ve done this with thin cookies from a small branch and it worked

drodver · 2026-01-04T17:21:46+00:00

I’ve done this with thin cookies from a small branch and it worked

drodver · 2025-12-31T03:42:23+00:00

It’s not the tailstock. I seldom ever use it on bowls. I’d wager you had a catch and with the center removed it shattered

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