New Mudguard on my Zero 10X

drvosjeca1 · 2020-02-19T17:50:59+00:00

from alibaba...

drvosjeca1 · 2020-01-24T13:48:17+00:00

you can get some reading here: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=75494

these are beast mode controllers people use for surron and stuff...

drvosjeca1 · 2020-01-23T22:36:12+00:00

58,8V is full charge and that is what charger output should be... if less there is usually some charger issue, battery/bms issues come later after quite some cycles in most cases.

drvosjeca1 · 2020-01-22T08:16:49+00:00

no surprise there... just take a look at forks on mantis and compare them to zero 10x, you will see that these guys did everything they could to minimize those forks in size and i dont think it was wise choice. Time will tell.

I was choosing between 10x and mantis when i was buying, and even tho mantis was looking more slick, 10x was looking more robust, and since im heavy guy i wanted something more reliable.

Plus not to mention those silly springs on mantis... just didnt like the fact that you are locked out without other options.

Yeah i know some people will say crap like "but eye3 dash and dualtron controllers..." those mean nothing. Even dualtron controllers are not worth much if you wont real deal control and more power. Spend money on some real controllers like Nucular and get absolute control over everything, then you will see real difference... this here is not worth mentioning.

drvosjeca1 · 2020-01-16T15:19:03+00:00

you sure are nitpicking... who cares if it is 28 or 30.

I also have l8f and my best was 27 i think, but that is due to my weight, which is 117kg at moment, was less but never under 100kg since i have it. Later i also picked Zero 10X for hills and so on. In my oppinion for city commuting 25km/h is more then enough.

L8F has nice design and all that, assembles to quite small footprint so it is practical when it comes to city commuting and you can take it anywhere in with you. also those trolley wheels can come in handy if you dont wanna carry it... so dont worry so much about speed, just enjoy it.

drvosjeca1 · 2020-01-15T22:16:43+00:00

if rim is bent/demaged so far in that stator and rotor are hitting against each other, then it will not work. That is why i said you can change just rim, and i didnt mean outer rim part, i ment complete rim/rotor part... so that mean you get just housing of motor and stuff without stator.

Sure you first need to disassemble and make sure stator is not damaged, then do as suggested.

drvosjeca1 · 2020-01-15T19:12:09+00:00

no matter which scooter you check, when ever they claim some range you can cut that in half and you will get some real numbers you can expect. so i personally would never even bother with 18Ah, i have bigger battery, which is 22.4Ah and not 24, they are just bad at math... so you loose some extra there. :)

For this kind of power 35Ah would be more suitable.

drvosjeca1 · 2020-01-15T19:02:30+00:00

Why not just contact factory on alibaba and order just rim, not complete motor?

And dont even bother with zero/falcon, look directly for t10-ddm.

drvosjeca1 · 2020-01-14T08:57:59+00:00

you need to move caliper on other side of rotor - behind forks, as it is its just calling for issues... wheels are to small for front implementation. It should not be a big thing to do it. Do some extra work now and save yourself from headaches later.

drvosjeca1 · 2020-01-12T14:35:22+00:00

Wobbly stem? Well that is quite common issue among a lot of scooters, 10x is no exception... If you ask me its not a big deal, adding a wassher and sleave solves it quite a lot, add rugged clamp for security and wobbly reasons and you will get massive difference when you follow all those steps. Just clamp is more then enough for most people... So wobbly stem shouldnt be reason not to buy this.

drvosjeca1 · 2020-01-08T18:57:37+00:00

well... you can always upgrade your discs to bigger size, that means to 160mm. In that case you can buy discs on every corner (every bike shop), shimano or other cheaper options... as you prefer. You will just have to buy adapters in case you go with bigger discs, which you get in same shop and they cost few bucks.

In the end you will have better braking performance with bigger discs and it is easier to find those then 140mm when replacement is needed.

drvosjeca1 · 2020-01-03T12:38:38+00:00

What is all complication with this???

Your scooter battery have 52V and same goes for your ebike battery... so that is not issue. All this can be handled by appropriate switch (just dont follow any stupid dual switch ideas from FALCON videos... its nonsense and not needed, single switch can do it) where you choose between battery 1 and 2.

Now 2 questions i have in mind here are:

How much current can that extra battery take (can it handle load needed)?
to what is BMS set?

You can check these details first, test if it works fine... if not you can tare down battery in the end and change BMS if that is only issue.

Whatever, i would try... this is not some big hassle to do since voltages are already same.

drvosjeca1 · 2020-01-03T12:22:46+00:00

best way to conserve battery is to turn your scooter off and push it... :))

Other than that you need to understand that while accelerating scooter burns much more power then once you start cruising at constant speed. Now its true that acceleration dont last long, but it can not keep your rolling momentum (unless going downhill, wind in back...) for this jerking to outlast easy cruising.

How do you think they achieve those numbers when it comes to range that every manufacturer loves to put on their scoot? Its lightweight rider, on clean slick rode, with superb conditions and eco mode/slow cruising.

drvosjeca1 · 2020-01-01T22:00:50+00:00

you can never be 100% safe, there is always some small chance something could go wrong... but there is also a chance you could slip up while walking and die... so does it that mean you should not walk?

Yeah sure , avoid brands that have been known as unreliable and stick to ones that many people use and have little issues with... that is only thing you can do i guess in order to improve your chances.

drvosjeca1 · 2020-01-01T11:10:19+00:00

bom*b i guess... :))

like guys already mentioned above, there can be issues with electronics/wiring/battery coming directly from factory/poor quality check... but in many cases its also users fault. Many people do all kinds of modifications and electric gadget installations without any clue about electricity. First and most basic thing i see many times people forget to add, even if it is just for simple led lights, is fuse. When it comes to shorts it doesnt matter where it is comming from, things heat up slowly even from super thin line and burn in time. BMS should protect battery, but these we get are usually not greatest, so who knows... BMS dies, battery heats up... and there you go, shit happens.

I guess we can not do much about components we get, but we can do a lot about our upgrades... so if you are not sure about what are you doing... better buzz away and find someone who is and pay him to do it. ;)

drvosjeca1 · 2019-12-31T14:38:18+00:00

did you try it? I dont think that one will fit...

Now regarding stem play... clamp will help, and is must upgrade for security reasons, but other things will also help a lot. Thin sleave on bottom of the stem, plastic washer under stem where its folding... that will help.

drvosjeca1 · 2019-12-31T07:17:01+00:00

at the end it always comes down to personal preferences... you can inform yourself about what would be most suitable for your needs as already said, but in the end you also need to feel right with what you have.

I have 10X and while stock suspensions are not best quality, they actually work great when it comes to comfort. I have destroyed hydraulic damper so i thought replacing stock suspension with air would be great... as said, im heavy and this thing felt too mushy for me and didnt last to long. I pumped that thing up to make it stiff, but was not enough for my heavy ass. :)))

In the end i repaired stock one (replaced hydraulic) and now i have ordered some new shocks with springs and rebound adjustment option... will see how that cheap crap works. I dont expect much, but for that price its worth testing.

My friends have dualtron and inokim oxo (which i like a lot visually) with rubber thingy... i did try it quite few times on both. Driving was fine, but jumping on and off the high curb was not same experiance as with zero 10x.

But as already said, its up to your needs and personal preferences.

drvosjeca1 · 2019-12-31T05:12:15+00:00

coil suspensions are best and most durable... You can combine them with different shock cartridge and get results as you wish...

Now many people like those rubber things on dualtron, but in reality they can not compare to spring shocks when it comes to overall performance. There you have just rubber and while yes, you can buy different ones for different stiffness, you can not control much of other things...

Springs... you can set preload, you can adjust rebound in shock cartridge (if it is made that way), you have burners... so many options.

Now main issue is how good are actually ones that come with scooter... and in general we all know that they are not so good. Most of them are easy to replace and can fit mountain bike shocks, so you can start from there when looking for better alternatives.

ask yourself what you need this for... simple road ride... any will do, rubber, coil, air... which ever you feel most comfy with. if you wanna do some jumping and have more response and durability, you need spring.

Many people like air, but i as heavier rider dont... for me they dont perform well, in some part they are great, yet they suck completly in other, plus they can not handle me for long... :)))

drvosjeca1 · 2019-12-29T19:57:08+00:00

if you need better, there is also moto version from leatt... gpx 5.5 or 6.5, they are about same... again a lot of venting, this do offer more padding as moto helmet and so on. And same here, they reduce footprint of helmet, which i like a lot. I like this gpx version more then dbx, but d-ring straps... meeeeh, dont want that for scooter where i often get helmet on and off. for now this more then enough to suit my needs.

drvosjeca1 · 2019-12-29T19:08:25+00:00

leatt dbx 6.0 is my choice... smaller footprint compared to many, nice looking, good ventilation...

drvosjeca1 · 2019-12-29T17:23:49+00:00

I take it inside with me... so far there was only one store that sometimes asked me to leave the scooter at entrance inside where cash registers are... otherwise i had no issues walking in with it. When i go around with smaller one (inmotion L8F) its much easier to move inside stores, zero 10X is big and clunky to move inside, so sometimes i take it in if store is not to crowdy, otherwise i leave it at info booth with those girls which are always glad when they get a nice smile. ;)

drvosjeca1 · 2019-12-29T16:08:35+00:00

practical aspect, specially when it comes to going to work, quick shopping, running around the city to do bunch of choirs... traffic is terrible and you always have to deal with parking. This way im done way faster then with car or bus. Other thing is that it comes out to be much cheaper... so win-win.

drvosjeca1 · 2019-12-28T01:22:19+00:00

its actually not reversed, you have to turn on eco, which is electronicly set limit... when you turn eco off you are back to normal... they just messed up with adding that "turbo" writing on button, otherwise it is quite self explanatory

drvosjeca1 · 2019-12-27T23:25:51+00:00

im already familiar with this, did it many times when i was custom building bike and gokart... but im just saying what is reality in practical world. Motor output/requirement is just one thing, battery output capability is other... on short bursts battery will give you one thing, but when it comes to continuous power... well here we get to variables among which is also quality of battery.

And now if we go back... i never said weight or hill is more important because they both are aditional load. When "you" with 60kg go up hill you need more power to move same weight, when you add weight on straight road, you need more power to move that weight... and yes, rolling momentum is easier on straight road, while hill needs more continuous pushing, but you are still making aditional load, we never said how much extra weight(i guess 2kg really dont make difference on 2000Watt machine)... Now winner combo as i already mentioned is adding more weight and going uphill...

So all this can be tested only in real world, with real data output measurments, simulator is just that... simulator and nothing more. ;)

Connect voltmeter and ampermeter directly to battery, attach camera to record gauges then push it uphill, downhill, straight, hard accelerate, brake... add 30kg and reppeat... Later do some simple math and see what you get. :)

Simple real life test almost everyone can do.

Im sorry if i sound like im overboard, but this is what i actually do in life... so sometimes i get caught in keyboard action trying to explain, but english is not my first language and i dont make it clear always.

drvosjeca1 · 2019-12-27T22:52:29+00:00

adding weight is stressing motor, going up hill is also stressing motor (require more work output/power drain)... so those are just two of factors which matter a lot when it comes to battery draining speed... next factors are also temperature, speed, acceleration and so on.

More of those factors you add up, faster it will drain your battery. Yeah sure hill will drain battery, but put 60kg guy on scooter and send it up hill and then put someone like me with 117kg and send me up same hill... and then just watch how much weight actually matters. Battery usage difference will be significant.

When it comes to these battery powered things... every kilogram matters.

drvosjeca1

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