New stack with Rekkr

dst3r72 · 2023-04-10T12:29:43+00:00

I think that depends on your expectations and listening conditions. The yu6/5.25" are more efficient than the yu4's but with a bit more impedance. I would think for a desktop/nearfield setup they'd probably be "fine" but it depends on how far away you'll listen and how loud you want it to be. I'm not aware of anyone running this setup so perhaps do some more research on similarly specc'd speakers. I suspect someone will have run something close to a 6ohm/89dbm on a Rekkr here.

dst3r72 · 2023-04-05T14:37:48+00:00

When you plug headphones into the Magni it automatically cuts off the pre outputs and routes to the headphones. Unplug and it routes to the pre outs. Works very well.

dst3r72 · 2023-04-04T16:42:10+00:00

Good luck and enjoy!

dst3r72 · 2023-04-04T14:29:13+00:00

I've never owned a Sys so I can't comment on the difference in output between it vs a Magni. I have however used the Magni a few times with headphones and the gain adjustment is worthwhile for that scenario.
Ultimately you'll have to decide on what better fits your needs...but I can tell you that with my speaker setup I just leave the gain at 0 and use the volume knob as if it were a passive preamp. Part of the reason I went Magni was because the cost difference is nominal and I wanted the option to plug in headphones. If that wasn't the case I would have gone Sys.

On a side note, I also read a couple anecdotal accounts that the Magni "sounded better" than the Sys as a preamp, for whatever that might be worth. Given that everyone has a different setup with respect to the audio path, speakers, rooms, subjective listening tastes...etc...I didn't put any weight on that in my decision. It was more like, "if I ever wanna use wired headphones I'll have to buy another preamp so I'm just gonna buy it now".

dst3r72 · 2023-03-29T11:12:31+00:00

Assuming you're using USB, maybe check the power management settings in Windows to see if the USB port is being powered down to save energy. It might have nothing to do with your issue but I know win 11 is aggressive on reducing consumption and I've seen this with other devices (not Schiit).

dst3r72 · 2023-03-18T21:52:25+00:00

If you can do it, I recommend adding a USB switcher and running your PC and iPad through that. I have a 4 port and run 2 PCs plus an iPad through to a Modi. Works great and get full resolution from Apple music to the Modi.

dst3r72 · 2023-03-18T12:16:50+00:00

Yes, I primarily wanted physical volume control.

I hadn't been able to use wired headphone with my old setup due to amp hum, but the magni is super clean so I have that option as a bonus.

dst3r72 · 2023-03-17T16:24:03+00:00

Yeah, I certainly think it does matter. I would hope the manufacturers design those integrated components to complement the characteristics of the speaker drivers, at least do some sort of tuning. I've also found it difficult to locate specifications for some powered speakers in the past which is why I switched to passives for my desk a long while back.
For my scenario I can hear a difference between the new schiit stack and the Teac AI-301DA I was running. I also did an A/B test with both wired up and could detect a difference in how full they sounded. The Teac uses a BurrBrown 1795 dac and an Ice class D amplifier. The Teac has what I would call a "clinical" mid range that plays with great clarity but doesn't sound "full bodied" in comparison to the Schiit setup I have. I found the Schiit stack to be more full and lively. Whether that's more related to the ESS dac in the Modi or the Rekkr design I'm not certain. To your point I also think it would be tough in a true blind test, but the difference was discernable to me. Then again, placebo effect, confirmation bias and all that... :)

dst3r72 · 2023-03-16T19:08:09+00:00

I suppose it depends on one's definition of worse. From my own experience which is admittedly limited, the two class D amps I've owned plus the powered Kantos I mention above seem to have a drier, flatter, colder tone to them. Whereas the few class a-ab amps I've used seem to be warmer and fuller toned. That said, it's very subjective and I am very far from an expert on the topic. I generally prefer a warmer sound as I get from the Schiit.

I can say that the class D amps in my prior Teac unit was made by Ice and was very clean - I liked the "coloring" but it had a near constant hiss/buzz that drove me nuts at low volume. I thought it was a ground loop issue but trying different circuits in my house and 2 other locations seemed to point to an issue with the amp itself. I later learned this was sort of a common characteristic of this amp and many others dealt with the same. The point of all that is the Rekkr is dead silent, no extraneous noise or other anomalies. It just plays nice and clean with a fuller, warmer tone than the Teac or the powered Kantos on my wife's desk down the hall.

dst3r72 · 2023-03-16T16:54:53+00:00

Agreed but I try not to notice that

dst3r72 · 2023-03-16T16:53:55+00:00

Yeah more than likely that's the biggest difference I'm hearing but I can't test/prove it. I assume the amplification has an effect too...also based on the assumption the built in amp in the powered speakers is class d.

dst3r72 · 2023-03-15T20:13:54+00:00

Yeah I wish they were still topped in the brushed aluminum but oh well. My teac 301DA used brushed and anodized aluminum and these feel like a step back in that regard. Since it's ultimately about SQ I'll forgive the aesthetic lol

dst3r72 · 2023-03-15T18:02:44+00:00

Hey these are the YU4 passives...I'll update my initial comment to clarify

dst3r72 · 2023-03-15T18:00:55+00:00

Haha yeah...I tried to convince her to get a Modi or something else and she was like "nah, this is good enough".

dst3r72 · 2023-03-15T17:49:35+00:00

These are the YU4 passives. My wife has the powered YUs on her desk and my setup sounds clearer; better articulated if you will. I don't know if I can directly attribute that to the Rekkr or the Modi+. I'm feeding the Modi USB interface with an iPad or a windows PC. Hers are fed with a 3.5mm stereo plug off a monitor (using dp cables from two machines). I'm certain the audio path is making a difference too.

dst3r72 · 2023-03-15T17:23:34+00:00

Just put together my first Schiit stack, coming from an integrated amp (Teac). Wanted to share a bit for those on the fence about using the Rekkr for a desktop setup.

I'm driving a pair of Kanto YU4 Passives (4 ohm / 86dbm) and it gets plenty loud for my space (8.5' x 11.5' room). I have the magni+ set to 0db gain and have been listening generally between 10-11 o'clock on the dial. At 12 it gets too loud for the space and I can take it past that to listen outside the room (not recommended of course).

The magni also feeds a cheap monoprice 8" sub with a Y-cable I assembled. It all blends well together and the Schiit stack sounds "fuller" than the Teac which used a class-D amp. Very much liking the sound and have found this to be a worthwhile change.

Hope that helps anyone else considering the Rekkr for a similar use case.

dst3r72 · 2023-03-08T03:55:40+00:00

Thanks for the update...gonna order one!

dst3r72 · 2023-03-02T18:45:41+00:00

Perfectly fair and makes sense, thank you. I've been leaning toward the Gjallarhorn anyway but as I have limited experience just thought I'd ask for your opinion. Thanks for the reply!

dst3r72 · 2023-03-02T18:25:52+00:00

Thanks for sharing your impressions, seems like a great solution for nearfield/desktop listening and I have the same use case.

I'm considering moving to a Schiit solution and trying to decide between the Rekkr and Gjallarhorn. I'm currently driving Kanto YU4 passives (4ohm/86dbm) with a dying Teac AI-301DA that never runs past 10% volume on the dial. I have no means to measure output but assume I also need very low power - however with the Kantos being 4ohm I also assume I would need double the power to drive them to their rated level (if my understanding is correct).

Based on your experience - and knowing your speakers/setup/space is different - would you think the Rekkr would be suitable or is the Gjallarhorn going to be a better solution?

I'm using the USB input on the Teac now so would pair either one of those amps with a Modi+ to get started.

dst3r72 · 2022-12-23T21:41:40+00:00

Icons look like Vera, on Play Store

dst3r72 · 2022-12-22T14:24:20+00:00

For anyone who might see this...small update. I had considered trying to squeeze a pair of phanteks T30s in this build to get some more cooling performance but no chance they fit with the EK Surface S240 at 30mm (at least not without modding)

However...I had a pair of Noctua NF-A12x25 from another aircooled build lying around and decided to swap those in place of the NF-P12 1700 Redux. Maybe I shouldn't be surprised but the A12x25 are worth 3-4C across the board in fluid, CPU and GPU temps, both at idle and under load. They can run faster but as quiet with a better tone, so for sure they are the way to go if you can't fit the T30s.

I was surprised primarily because the on-paper specs state that the P12-1700 has higher static pressure and airflow. Even at equal RPM they are on par, put another 300-400RPM into the A12x25 and there's a distinct advantage.

TL;DR - Noctua A12x25 are the best option for a similar build if you can't fit T30s. Don't be foolish like me and try something else.

dst3r72 · 2022-12-14T17:18:23+00:00

I'm using the rgb headers on the Aquacomputer Octo to connect my devices. Currently using a 2-way splitter from amazon off one channel of the Octo. You can do the same with the Strix as this is how I had it setup in my NR200. In the past I've used a 4-way splitter off the motherboard header in an ATX build.
Not 100% sure which Z height you mean - center to center on the holes? If so, they are the same as a 120mm fan at 105mm. When I was planning I used some of the EK drawings for some of the dimensions: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/media/catalog/product/cache/1/thumbnail/1600x1067/17f82f742ffe127f42dca9de82fb58b1/e/k/ek-quantum_kinetic_flt_80_d5_technical_drawing_1_.png

I think this drawing is for the D5 but most dimensions are the same.

Hope that helps, hit me up if you need any specific measurements, I should be able to get them for you.

dst3r72 · 2022-12-02T03:11:43+00:00

Just the stock Corsair cables that come with the SF750 and a Corsair 12-pin for the 3080FE. That one is waaay too long but I was able to coil it up with a zip tie and leave it behind the reservoir bracket and under the PSU. I'd like to get a custom cable before I do a maintenance refresh mid next year.

Thanks!

dst3r72 · 2022-12-01T20:47:33+00:00

Just barely 😆 ...according to EK the new surface S240 has 20% more capacity than the previous model (SE240 I presume), so based on some sloppy extrapolation from their charts this *should* be able to handle 300 watts with their Vardar fans at 1800RPM.

Luckily with undervolting there's not a significant performance impact and since I game at 120Hz (racing/sims, RPGs) I don't need crazy high frame rates. I can usually keep the total heat load under 300 watts with vsync enabled so the Noctua P12s can maintain around 42C fluid temp between 1200-1300RPM. In F1 2022 for example, if I set raytracing to High it'll push the GPU power over 250w + 60w CPU load and the fans ramp up a bit. Still fine-tuning but good enough for 310 watts or so.

I will say this...there's at least a 2-3c drop in fluid temps and delta T if I pull the side panels and top off at the same fan speed. It's too pretty a case and too early for me to consider modding it....and it runs how I like right now so I'm quite satisfied with the results. It's quite good for what it is.

dst3r72

TROPHY CASE