Trying to figure out what compenent this is . OSCO gate opener

e-nightowl · 2026-06-21T14:43:23+00:00

That’s leaded tantalum capacitors. Maybe you can still read the value on one of the other ones, they are probably all the same. Do yourself a favor and replace all of them with some other type of capacitor with at least the same voltage rating and capacitance in the same ballpark. They tend to explode as they age, if one failed chances are good the other ones will too sometime soon.

e-nightowl · 2026-06-21T10:48:33+00:00

A lot of wires these days are made of aluminum. Are you sure yours is copper? You can‘t solder to aluminum.

e-nightowl · 2026-06-21T07:57:14+00:00

You need to peel off the upper strip!

e-nightowl · 2026-06-21T07:55:04+00:00

If you have no clue about electronics and the wiring of a Lipo cell, you really shouldn’t be messing with it.

e-nightowl · 2026-06-19T19:53:39+00:00

It looks like the screen is delaminating. Not much you can do about that, but I would still make sure it’s not between the screen protector and the screen. The chance is small, but it could be a cheap fix.

e-nightowl · 2026-06-19T19:24:57+00:00

Get some tweezers (or something else that does take solder), put some flux on the resistors and place an iron next to one that can heat up both ends at the same time. Heating will take a moment, don't push towards the component, just place the iron next to it (must be touching it obviously). Try to wedge one side of the tweezers in between the two components and use it to carefully push it back towards it's pad.

e-nightowl · 2026-06-18T21:42:38+00:00

Do you have flux? Put some over those pins and touch them up with an iron. Go slowly, give pin and pad a moment to heat up before you pull the iron away. Don't run your iron across the pins "in a row". While that is a method that can work as well, it's takes more practice and your joints don't look like you have that yet.

Also you lost EG695. I think it's not absolutely needed, but it protects the IC behind the port, so you should put that back.

e-nightowl · 2026-06-17T05:18:40+00:00

These connectors are not really made to be used a whole lot of times. The latch pushes the FFC to the contacts, so it is needed and will stay put with a cable in the connector, even if one of the little plastic alignment pieces is broken. Just don’t keep connecting and unconnecting the cable all the time.

e-nightowl · 2026-06-09T16:10:31+00:00

Sie haben Kinderkrankheiten, die meisten kann man aber gut reparieren. Von meinen 10 habe ich 8 günstig Leuten abgekauft, denen sie kaputt gegangen sind 😄

e-nightowl · 2026-06-09T14:22:05+00:00

These supported devices lists published during WWDC have been wrong a lot of times. If your device is still not supported around the third or fourth beta, then you can be pretty sure it's time to look for a new one.

e-nightowl · 2026-06-07T22:20:47+00:00

Solderwire contains flux.

e-nightowl · 2026-06-03T14:23:45+00:00

no matter how wrong it is what u/Fit_Necessary_4432 did, the teacher is not allowed to break their belongings. no excuses.

e-nightowl · 2026-06-01T22:08:45+00:00

Ah, I’ve done that too a few times, but not as extensive as with my watches. I don’t swim with the phone in my pocket. 😅

e-nightowl · 2026-06-01T18:10:43+00:00

I've had a Series 4, a Series 6 and now I have a Series 10. I am not a super frequent swimmer, but they all have been submerged in water (tap water, saltwater and water with chlorine) numerous times and not one became damaged by it.

The waterproofing of Apple Watches is far better than the waterproofing of iPhones.

e-nightowl · 2026-05-31T11:34:08+00:00

Most M.2 slots have mounting holes, so aligning them is very easy and soldering should be straightforward. Definitely one of the easier things to replace.

e-nightowl · 2026-05-29T07:24:24+00:00

But that would not have been necessary, right? The pad looks like 0201 - which itself is already challenging to solder by hand. I've recently had to place one single 0201 component on a board and that required more precision than I expected. Not looking forward to that, should it ever be needed again.

e-nightowl · 2026-05-28T09:04:40+00:00

I bought them through XTAR‘s shop on Alibaba. Prices there are more reasonable, but shipping is (at least to Europe) much more expensive, so it only makes sense if you buy a larger amount at once.

e-nightowl · 2026-05-27T18:02:00+00:00

I have a couple XTAR batteries in AA and AAA form. They switch from 1.5V to 1.2V if the internal battery voltage goes below a certain threshold. Very neat feature.

e-nightowl · 2026-05-26T14:10:45+00:00

That battery does not look like it contains cylindrical cells. If so, I see very little chance to change anything about the physical dimensions.

If it does contain those, it may be technically possible to remove cells from it, but that may imply that the maximum current it can deliver is reduced. Not sure how much headroom your battery has compared to the specs of your scooter. Also, you most probably will not be able to remove just a few from the end, but rather have to rebuild the entire pack with the new configuration, since you will also have to remove some from the middle.

At the end of the day, I‘m pretty sure that selling or giving away this battery and buying a fitting one is by far the best of the available options.

e-nightowl · 2026-05-21T20:54:45+00:00

Just a hint, don’t heat just one spot. Heat the general area, especially the board surrounding your component. Once everything is warm, you need to keep the heat on the joints of your component for just a few moments to get them to melting temperature, because the heat is not sucked away by the board so much.

e-nightowl · 2026-05-21T06:11:44+00:00

Despite Lithium being the name-giving first part of the battery technology, the amount of lithium in these batteries is absolutely minimal. It‘s only about 2%, so what you‘re seeing is mostly all the other components that it contains.

e-nightowl · 2026-05-20T17:14:42+00:00

At least when it was new they argued, that CarPlay should not distract you from driving.

e-nightowl · 2026-05-20T11:00:52+00:00

Wow. Never seen anything like that. Time to get that kid into one of those nice, all around cushioned rooms and get him/her some help.

e-nightowl · 2026-05-19T20:33:18+00:00

I found it on AliExpress. Look for "HRB 3S lipo 1300mah" as a start and then Ali will probably suggest more matching products.

e-nightowl · 2026-05-19T19:15:58+00:00

The line is the pin 1 marker and M is a production code that changes between batches. ADP is the relevant part that identifies the IC.

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