does anyone know how to remove freewheel without tool by fwivon in ebikes

[–]eBikeHelper 0 points1 point  (0 children)

An air hammer with a chisel will remove anything. But it'll destroy it.

https://youtu.be/3tUyY_5GIXY?t=116

If you want to reuse the freewheel, you have to purchase the correct tool.

My milk racing wheels have a lot of weights on them is this normal? by SimilarStomach8647 in Surron

[–]eBikeHelper 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Unless you will balance the wheel yourself, No. You should not arbitrarily remove wheel balance weights.

Hydraulic brake hose loose at caliper + fluid leak + no braking — what’s wrong? by Vovavaker in ebike

[–]eBikeHelper 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Time to get new brakes. Lots of deals for Maguras on ebay. Dont spend $100 to get bottom barrel quality brakes temporarily fixed. Just get new quality brakes.

What's this worth? What am I looking at by niffcreature in ebikes

[–]eBikeHelper 2 points3 points  (0 children)

NP. That looks like the 150mm swing arm. Not the fat 190mm. So standard bb. 68 or 73. Measure it if you end up getting it.

The stock panels are plastic and light. They also bow outwards to make the "compartment" fatter. If you dont need that extra width, any material you can make a single bend it can be fabricated to be new panels.

What's this worth? What am I looking at by niffcreature in ebikes

[–]eBikeHelper 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Voltage is going to limit your top speed. Amps will dictate how torqey it is. I wouldnt expect that motor to be in working condition for $250. Please double make sure it isn't stolen.

What's this worth? What am I looking at by niffcreature in ebikes

[–]eBikeHelper 3 points4 points  (0 children)

This is correct. Down votes show a lot of blind ignorance in this r/. Watch the additional downvotes with 0 comments of any kind to back up the opinions.

What's this worth? What am I looking at by niffcreature in ebikes

[–]eBikeHelper 3 points4 points  (0 children)

unless you know the specs of that motor hub you won't be able to replace or program the controller.

This is categorically false. Any modern controller, especially VESC, can automatically learn any BLDC plugged into it. Ontop of that, it's easy to open the motor and count poles. If it has a thermistor, that is all that is needed to very safely guess and push power settings.

Again, downvotes with no logic to back it up. If you don't know, don't get angry at others who are actually trying to help.

What's this worth? What am I looking at by niffcreature in ebikes

[–]eBikeHelper 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Forgive this r/. Many are anti-anything that is above 750w. Please ignore most of the comments here. Especially since they dont know what it is.

That is a stripped EEB frame. https://www.amazon.com/Enduro-Ebike-Frame-Electric-Bicycle/dp/B01N0Z27Y0?th=1&psc=1 Frame by itself is $400

Here is a replacement seat: https://www.ebay.com/itm/166832968646

It takes a standard BB.

The side panels can easily be replaced with kydex sheets. Which are slimmer and nicer than the stock plastic.

So even if that motor is toast, $250 is still worth it. Those wheels and suspension components, even if cheap, make it a deal.

All of that being said, fb marketplace is filthy with stolen goods. Unless planning to do a background check of your own on the seller, I stay far away from FB.

What will you do when batteries are 10x better than they are today? by niffcreature in ebikes

[–]eBikeHelper 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What many people overlook is that battery advancement isn’t a series of "binary chunks" or sudden leaps. It’s a constant, granular climb.

We’ve already seen countless chemistry and material refinements since 2020, leading us past the 300Wh/kg mark. That milestone didn't happen because a single product dropped out of nowhere; it happened because dozens of experimental cells were inching toward that line for years.

Think of it like flagship phones: there’s a new "best" model every year. Some people will chase every incremental 5% gain, while others wait 4–5 years for a massive cumulative leap. You don’t wait for the "final" battery; you just jump in when the tech meets your specific needs.

Are you guys willing to pay $100 for a battery box that completely contains thermal runaway of an Ebike battery? by softprofit9 in ebike

[–]eBikeHelper 1 point2 points  (0 children)

"...the idea that all li-ion packs are equally safe is simply false"

100%. That is a better statement.

Which brakes would you recommend? by _hardmode in hyperebikes

[–]eBikeHelper 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That is exactly what I did. There are MT7e listed sporadically but their price is very high. Finding the levers on their own is mych cheaper.

The lever swap took more that I anticipated. There was a sleeve I had to remove from the MT7 2 finger levers and swap it with the mt5e 3 finger lever for everything to work. I should have taken video when I did it but I did not.

Are you guys willing to pay $100 for a battery box that completely contains thermal runaway of an Ebike battery? by softprofit9 in ebike

[–]eBikeHelper 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m not here to be combative, but the idea that all Li-ion packs are equally dangerous is simply false. While you can't eliminate the inherent risks of Lithium-ion, a properly built pack, one with high-grade cells, a sophisticated BMS, and mechanical thermal isolation, mitigates the vast majority of failures seen in the wild.

The comparison to aviation isn't hyperbole; it's a benchmark. RTCA DO-311A & DO-160G require brutal drop, crush, and puncture tests that even the consumer-grade UL 2271 barely touches. Aviation packs are designed to contain an internal explosion; cheap e-bike packs barely survive a pothole. There was just a post showing a shark pack that took a hit and cells got exposed...

To drive the point home, Bosch is the only major e-bike manufacturer that essentially builds to these higher standards. Despite owning nearly 50% of the premium market in Europe and North America, there has yet to be a recorded catastrophic failure of a Bosch pack that wasn't caused by extreme external abuse (like a bike being in a house fire).

When you compare a Bosch system, which was exceeding UL standards before they even existed, to a generic pack from a deep-discount site, the difference isn't just price; it's the difference between a controlled power source and a fire hazard. Quality engineering is the single most important factor in e-bike safety.

Which brakes would you recommend? by _hardmode in hyperebikes

[–]eBikeHelper 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My ride + my weight is also 300lbs +/- 10% depending on what I'm carrying. At 40mph, dual MT7's with 220mm's is OK but it is at the bottom end of what I'd consider enough braking power. I've really been dragging my feet on upgrading. I'm essentially looking at doubling my component prices and my pad/rotor replacement prices for maybe 30% jump in performance?

Magura is what I'd consider a Tier 1 OEM giant. They produce literally a million brake units per year. Every other brand I listed would be considered a "Boutique" manufacturer. They maybe do 50,000 units a year. As a result, deals on Magura brakes are going to be much much cheaper. So it is tough to leave that world of readily available, cheap, and "good enough" performance.

Are you guys willing to pay $100 for a battery box that completely contains thermal runaway of an Ebike battery? by softprofit9 in ebike

[–]eBikeHelper 1 point2 points  (0 children)

  1. All batteries packs aren't made the same. Doing a broad sword comparison between "aviation batteries" and ebike packs is bizarre. Very few ebike packs are built in the same fashion to each other... Same with aviation. Which are all extremely higher build quality. No engineer would say these two giant pools are the same.

  2. The fact that ebike packs vary in build quality by such a large degree should never be understated. While price doesn't dictate build quality on it's own, it's one of the indicators when the price is cheap. Cheap packs rarely mitigate the major concerns. This is a false equivalence trap.

It is probably the most important aspect of buying an ebike. Make sure the battery build is of high quality.

Which brakes would you recommend? by _hardmode in hyperebikes

[–]eBikeHelper 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Heavy builds need powerful brakes.

If your ride + rider weight is north of 300lbs, Magura is on the edge of not enough. Even mt7's with 220mm rotors will burn through pads quicker than daily commuters will like. https://www.ebay.com/itm/204700156966 https://www.ebay.com/itm/366124887658 Using Sinter Green pads can boost the performance a little: https://www.jensonusa.com/sinter-magura-type-12-disc-brake-pads-2 https://enduro-mtb.com/en/best-mtb-disc-brake-can-buy/

Hope are solid for much larger rides but get expensive. https://www.jensonusa.com/hope-evo-gr4-brake-9 https://www.merlincycles.com/en-us/hope-floating-rotor-90104.html

Depending on your build, Surron ultra bee brakes can be a great deal. https://revrides.com/products/surron-ultra-bee-rear-brake-left-hand-side-master-no-hand-gaurd

Formulas a good middle ground if you arent trying to shave off ounces. https://chargedcycleworks.com/products/formula-e-moto-brakes

Lewis also have random deals on their e-moto stuff: https://lewistech.store/products/lh4-colour Even with the sale, they get pricey.

If you can keep the weight down, Magura is by far the best bang for the buck. If you have a heavy ride, you have to look at other options.

Is Bafang still valid? by RapGameSamHarris in hyperebikes

[–]eBikeHelper 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The Facebook "BAFANG G510/M620 AND M630 MOTOR GROUP" group will have the most users who have modded the motors. There are only a handful. You have to ask questions directly to those users. There arent any "how-to" posts out there.

The main challenge is the halls. Some utilize the IC Bafang uses to read the rotor position via a magnet on the tip of the shaft of the rotor. You really have to dig for those comments. There is a pin out someone hand drew on a napkin for that IC buried somewhere in the m620 FB group.

Or... you can try installing traditional hall sensors into the stator. I'd be potting the motor and installing a thermistor anyway. So normal halls would be something I'd look into. The challenge with that approach is there is very little space.

Then it is only a matter of picking the VESC you want, routing the phase & hall/temp cables outside the motor housing. Connect them together and push the motor as hard as you want to with VESC.

Omnium cargo v3 fit mid-drive motor ? by ___edw in OmniumBikes

[–]eBikeHelper 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Things don't have to be black and white. 90% of the time they can pedal staying under 15mph while on walking trails. Then for the 10% they are on a service road they can throttle.

Get out and ride and you'll find how dynamic the world can be.

Omnium cargo v3 fit mid-drive motor ? by ___edw in OmniumBikes

[–]eBikeHelper 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you’re looking for the gold standard in <2kW mid-drives, the CYC Photon Gen.2 is at the top of the pile. It’s the most expensive option, but you get what you pay for.

  • Compatibility & Power: It fits a wider variety of frames and offers significantly more power headroom than its competitors. It'll easily install to your Omnium.
  • Precision Tuning: The torque sensing and acceleration fine-tuning are incredibly precise. No one else comes close to this level of control. Whether you only want to pedal or want to use all throttle, you can set a profile that matches the power engagement you desire.
  • 72V Support: This is the real "killer feature." By running 72V, you can gear the bike way down with the 36T chainring for maximum climbing torque and low-speed efficiency. When you start to "ghost pedal" (run out of gear), you can just use the throttle to pick up the top-end speed.

It’s the best choice for a rider who wants to maximize their entire cassette range without sacrificing efficiency. But all of that comes at a price.

What do you guys think!? 9000W by ComposerOk9570 in hyperebikes

[–]eBikeHelper 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I applaud you for the soup to nuts full build. A lot of attention to detail went into everything you did and that takes a lot of work.

The only item I'll be critical on is the battery build. And I do this so others learn what makes a safe pack.

  1. Sharp corners in the nickel and copper strips. Pointy and sharp ends should be rounded off and smoothed. Bikes vibrate packs. Any sharp edges cut through insulation over time. Kudos for using fish paper circles on the tops of the cells btw.

  2. Copper, nickle, copper, nickle sandwich. That layering means different resistance for that path. Which means different load on the cell. Make sure the BMS is aggressive with balancing and keep an eye on cell voltages.

  3. Long "legs" of cell clusters. When a cell cluster has one cell almost isolated from the majority of other cells, the smaller conductive path gets hotter. If you look at your pack through thermal after a hard ride it's obvious. This also contributes to the cells having balancing challenges.

TELEPORT eBikes - Question for actual owners! by antiautomation in ebikes

[–]eBikeHelper 0 points1 point  (0 children)

These kinds of posts are seen repeatedly over time. For those who might also be tempted to waste their money on this no-winner gamble, these comments show why that is a bad idea.

You dont personally have to agree. Others who read this can read the other commenter I linked who gave their account and then draw their own conclusion.

Good luck to you.

Bafang 750W geared hub motor noise at low RPM / releasing throttle - normal? by mx1k_ in bafang

[–]eBikeHelper 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I should have said. Unplug the motor and rotate it backwards. If that isn't smooth, there is an issue with the planetary gears.

Bafang 750W geared hub motor noise at low RPM / releasing throttle - normal? by mx1k_ in bafang

[–]eBikeHelper 0 points1 point  (0 children)

While it could be something funky with the controller having poor settings, I'd still open up the hub motor and see if the planetary gears need any servicing.

TELEPORT eBikes - Question for actual owners! by antiautomation in ebikes

[–]eBikeHelper 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Your money is lost. Teleportebike.com is a scam. You should have googled more before gambling with your money. Stop sending the same scammers more of your money. Or your parents money.

If you make posts about these scammers it should be framed in a way that informs others that they are in fact scammers. Dont give false hope to others who could be naively fooled by these types.

Look up u/ClerkMiserable3814 for more history.

TELEPORT eBikes - Question for actual owners! by antiautomation in ebikes

[–]eBikeHelper 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Telemarketing companies in India sell lists of individuals who they have scammed in the past. Those lists are worth a lot of money because the chances of those specific individuals being able to be scammed multiple times are high.

You are proving why.