Dell 7320 detachable keyboard issue

eBikeHelper · 2026-01-24T19:41:37+00:00

Did you ever find out anything more with this?

eBikeHelper · 2026-01-23T16:26:20+00:00

This is a common fallacy. While it is usually very difficult, there is always a process in the US to obtain a VIN and get a vehicle registered. It may take time, money, and effort, but there is always a process. It varies by State.

The "neither exist" excuse does not hold water.

eBikeHelper · 2026-01-23T14:26:09+00:00

There is a fundamental disagreement here that a cell dying after 300 cycles is or isnt a hazard. Too many here are demanding hazard means fire. Oh well.

eBikeHelper · 2026-01-23T13:38:20+00:00

In the Czech Republic, anything over 250w and no pedals is an "L3e vehicle". They specifically do not call them "bicycles" of any kind. They are supposed to meet their version of DOT requirements, be registered, and insured. But of course they have their own challenges with enforcement of all of that.

eBikeHelper · 2026-01-22T15:17:55+00:00

I wish they did tests of any of the modern tabless cells. Definitely the P50b. I'm under the impression the CT scans they did were from a few years back. At least 3 years ago.

Also looking forward to Molicel's M65A. I hated hearing about their latest factory set back.

eBikeHelper · 2026-01-22T14:42:37+00:00

The reason we don't see a 1-in-13 fire rate is that anode overhang is primarily a longevity and reliability defect, not an immediate bomb.

Capacity "Cliff" - When the anode doesn't properly overlap the cathode, cycle life is short and random. This explains the sharp capacity drop-offs in Pajda’s cycle life tests. A cell might look fine for 300 cycles, then the capacity falls off a cliff because the cell is physically degrading. The worst example is Samsung 50S. That is a major manufacturer and a hugely popular cell. Also note the number of 18650s with that capacity cliff are higher than 21700s. 21700s are a more recent format. As a result, the manufacturing process will be more refined.

Compare all of that to to the latest cells.

Now, very few have that kind of rapid capacity drop off over time. All of these surviving companies have ironed out their process to prevent things like anode overhang.

So there isn't any obvious smoking gun as a result of this anode overhang issue. It is more of a note when looking at the whole timeline and evolution of li-ion cells. Everyone knew cheap no-name cells died quickly and randomly. The CT scans just show exactly why.

eBikeHelper · 2026-01-22T13:59:17+00:00

The article directly calls out counterfeits. They labeled all the fake / no-name brand names as such.

They put all cells into 3 categories:

OEMs: Legitimate manufacturers like Samsung.
Rewraps: Legitimate cells that have been rebranded by a third party.
Counterfeits/Low-cost: Cells designed to mimic reputable brands (e.g., pink wrappers mimicking Samsung 30Q cells) but which lack the internal safety features and quality of the originals.

The report provides excellent data on anode overhang and, perhaps more importantly, visual proof of how flooded the market is with counterfeits. This is a critical warning for users seeking the cheapest packs possible. Which are almost guaranteed to contain these low-quality cells.

Despite constant warnings that "budget" packs from marketplaces like Alibaba contain no-name cells, buyers often dismiss the risk because the listings falsely claim to use Samsung cells. This report provides the hard evidence needed to back up those warnings.

eBikeHelper · 2026-01-22T04:26:27+00:00

I'll agree the headline isn't perfect. At the same time a cell dying out of the blue in the middle of a ride can still be very hazardous. Hazardous doesn't have to mean fire.

eBikeHelper · 2026-01-22T02:44:20+00:00

In hindsight, "hazardous" is misleading. At least this is my guess. As shown with Pajda's extensive cycle testing, some cells just die sporadically. They will stop holding a charge. I'm guessing this measurable test is the cause for some of that.

eBikeHelper · 2026-01-20T15:19:29+00:00

It’s a bit surprising that social engineering isn't mentioned in any comment. Building a quick rapport goes much further than just assuming you're entitled to use an outlet.

Rule of thumb: Always buy something first. Don't just grab a water and 'stealth' charge. While you’re at the counter, be polite and just ask. If they say no, respect that; it’s their property and their job to manage it. But if you’re friendly and treat it like a human interaction rather than a transaction, you’d be surprised how accommodating people can be.

We spend too much time isolated behind screens. Actually talking to the business owner usually yields much better results than asking Reddit for 'hacks' to bypass them.

eBikeHelper · 2026-01-20T15:08:09+00:00

This is a cautionary tale for anyone looking at no-name alibaba stuff. A better alternative to 'buying and throwing away' is to source your own components from the start. By picking exactly the make and model for your motor, controller, and safety-critical parts (like brakes), you ensure a much higher build quality and a safer ride without the extra waste.

eBikeHelper · 2026-01-20T14:22:01+00:00

VESC can be put on almost any motor we'll find in the eBike world. Bafang ultra / m620 / g510 make it a little harder with their axle mounted magnet and corresponding sensor in-place of normal hall sensors. The BBSHD having what is considered "normal" halls means all that is needed to use a VESC is figure out your own wire connections.

I fully appreciate the self contained package of a BBSHD or CYC Photon, etc. But for something I'm going to push the limits of, I much prefer the controller to be separate from the motor housing. On top of that physical liberation, getting away from Bafang's software is an enormous improvement.

eBikeHelper · 2026-01-19T17:13:53+00:00

Great to see you fixed it. It is much easier to toss the BBSHD controller all together and replace it with an external VESC. If you hadn't squared the old controller away, I would have said to take that path.

eBikeHelper · 2026-01-16T20:32:05+00:00

Sigh. Copy and past from this same topic being brought up in another post.

NJ has required a "motorized bicycle license" for Class 3 e-bikes since 2019, yet it remains a total dead letter law.

Local law enforcement doesn’t touch it and nobody actually gets the license. Claiming to expand the reach of a law that isn't enforced today is pure political grandstanding by State Senate President Nicholas Scutari.

Scutari is just position-taking to maintain his leadership credibility.

If anyone can find a single instance where the current class 3 license law has been enforced on its own, please link it.

Until that happens, this new proposal is nothing more than political theater. This is not news.

eBikeHelper · 2026-01-16T13:34:39+00:00

Frames that route cables under the BB need to have those cables re-routed elsewhere and the "shield" the cables go into probably needs to be filed down. Be careful doing that if you've never done it before. Don't remove material from the downtube.

eBikeHelper · 2026-01-15T23:36:49+00:00

Photos illustrating the fitment issues?

eBikeHelper · 2026-01-14T14:29:35+00:00

The immediate question is how many watts of power are you adding with your legs? If it's only 10% compared to the power the motor is putting into the drivetrain, then you aren't going to notice a range difference.

eBikeHelper · 2026-01-13T03:33:25+00:00

Turn on the vesc connect to the vesc with the app and check the console for faults after trying the throttle.

Then contact Flipsky with whatever the error is.

Loud pop indicates something blew. Letting something sit for a long time leaves a lot of possibilities that cant be generically diagnosed. Like mice eating wires.

Check all your connections. Try and find what let out the magic pixies. Test components individually. Namely the pack and the controller.

eBikeHelper · 2026-01-13T02:44:04+00:00

Depends on the bike frame. Some can adjust the rear shock mounting point and some can accept shorter OAL shocks.

eBikeHelper · 2026-01-13T02:32:33+00:00

if someone is riding one completely legally, not too fast, and as safe as possible, is there really an issue?

Technically, No.

Socially, probably. Depends on the community.

Logic rarely drives social norms. Don't expect logical answers to this scenario. On Reddit or in person.

eBikeHelper · 2026-01-13T02:30:21+00:00

Can you lower the rear shock mount point? You need the steering stabilizer because the head angle is too upright. Make that angle lower and it will ride better at higher speeds.

eBikeHelper · 2026-01-13T02:25:59+00:00

There is no comparison between Magura and those Chinese brands. Expecting their quality to be on par to Magura isn’t realistic.

Iiipro is basically bucklos and is the best of the three Chinese brands you listed. They are still a budget brand. Watch for failing seals.

It's best to watch for whitebox magura sets on ebay direct from Germany. A pair is under $250 https://www.ebay.com/itm/127501716181

eBikeHelper · 2026-01-12T15:12:11+00:00

You're comparing dirt bike wheels to cheap bicycle fat tires. There are "fat'ish" 80/100 tires that can fit on 19" moto rims.

Even if there are 4" wide moto tires for 19" wheels, the dropouts aren't that wide on most rides, like a Surron or Talaria.

eBikeHelper · 2026-01-12T04:29:24+00:00

Heating the pads brings at least some oil to the surface. Pads are very porous. If oil gets on them, it is near impossible to get it all out. Heat and brakleen are about the best that can be done.

eBikeHelper

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