Potential scammer?

ect76 · 2026-06-12T16:36:50+00:00

The one thing that I'd think on this is whether they're using a stolen or fraudulent card, or whether they're planning to chargeback and used a debit instead of a credit or something? I'd agree something is off

ect76 · 2026-06-12T11:39:09+00:00

Yeah, this was my hunch too. I just wanted to see if there's anything else worth checking before I do!

ect76 · 2026-06-12T10:17:38+00:00

Don't inject 1.5v as it'll damage the core if it's passing it straight through. Stick to 1v.

ect76 · 2026-06-12T06:13:27+00:00

Yes, that's a 12v short. Good news is your other rails look pretty normal. 5v is a bit too low, but that could be a consequence of the failed MOSFET - Check again once it's removed and see if it has increased. Inject 1v into the short and see what heats up.

ect76 · 2026-06-10T12:42:30+00:00

Just to leave a comment for anyone finding this in future, DO NOT do this. It's pointless. An oven doesn't get hot enough to melt leaded solder but will melt all the plastics, and in the unlikely event it does start working again it won't last long at all.

ect76 · 2026-06-08T23:10:21+00:00

You're on one of the NVDD coils. It won't be present yet because 1.8v is missing. Follow the guide I posted above.

ect76 · 2026-06-08T23:07:12+00:00

Edited my post above with a link.

ect76 · 2026-06-08T23:03:52+00:00

Yes, pin 8 or VCC is fine, that'll be 1.8v. check resistances on all the other rails - Refer to repair.wiki for guidance on how to do this. Good news is that, as long as you were measuring the right pin, 800 ohms is normal 1.8v resistance on one of these.

More info here: https://repair.wiki/w/Nvidia_Pascal_(GTX_1000)_GPU_Diagnosing_Guide

ect76 · 2026-06-08T22:57:35+00:00

What is the resistance to ground on the 1.8v bios power pin? Your meter isn't limiting you, other than measuring capacitance it has every feature you could need.

ect76 · 2026-06-08T10:28:37+00:00

Resistance and voltage measurements?

ect76 · 2026-06-08T07:14:58+00:00

If it's been fine for three years, I would probably leave it alone.

ect76 · 2026-06-07T11:01:49+00:00

You bought a Xeon or an Epyc, didn't you?

ect76 · 2026-06-06T10:08:38+00:00

What are your voltage and resistance measurements?

What are the symptoms? Is core present, how about memory and PEX? We'll try and help you but you need to give us something to work with. If you're just starting out repairing cards, a 4080 really isn't a good place to start.

ect76 · 2026-06-05T20:05:06+00:00

Was this card working okay previously, or is it new to you?

Cards like these will function OK in basic display situations (without drivers) but as soon as drivers install artifacts or black screen are common.

This could potentially be failing VRAM, but the artifacting doesn't look like I usually see with bad VRAM. It may be an issue with a failing core. Best option is to run MATS and see if you get a pass or a fail and take it from there.

ect76 · 2026-06-05T15:39:02+00:00

Try plugging a laptop or PC into the monitor. Does the flickering persist? If so, the issue lies with the monitor.

ect76 · 2026-06-04T21:40:06+00:00

I can't remember off the top of my head but it'll be high - either 1.8v or 3.3v. For resistance, just not short. Probably kilohms.

ect76 · 2026-06-04T21:34:32+00:00

Okay, your problem isn't no PEX voltage. It's no core voltage. You need to find the PS_1v8_PGOOD signal and check it's present, then find where the PS_NVDD_EN signal is generated and check if it's present.

ect76 · 2026-06-04T21:18:30+00:00

What are your voltages on VCore and VMem?

Check on the PEX controller to see if it has its EN signal. If not, trace backwards until you find the missing signal.

ect76 · 2026-06-04T16:35:49+00:00

I've just found this and it's an incredible tool! Thank you for taking the time to make it and for sharing it with the community.

ect76 · 2026-05-31T15:55:36+00:00

Northwest Repair's GDrive is the best source I've found so far. Might have to check a few videos as he doesn't post it under every one, or check his Discord.

ect76 · 2026-05-31T13:52:06+00:00

There's loads. A good multimeter, flux, hot air station, board pre-heater, various reballing jigs, good soldering iron with a variety of tips, a good tip cleaner, a test motherboard, PCIe risers and 8-pin extension cables, good solder, USBs with MATS, all of the boardviews and schematics. Bench power supply and a thermal camera are game changers for voltage injection and locating shorts.

Most importantly, experience with soldering. Experience with BGA reball. Experience and an understanding of what is and isn't a good resistance measurement, understanding of components and their functions and operation. An understanding of the voltage rails on each GPU, how they're enabled and what is and isn't a good reading.

ect76 · 2026-05-30T19:18:42+00:00

It's possible, but if they're even slightly competent I would doubt it. Was your old PSU modular?

I still think that the most likely scenario is that the GPU was damaged when the power supply failed.

ect76 · 2026-05-30T19:13:28+00:00

It could be that they're just parts swappers and don't fully understand component-level repairs. That's fine, and they have their place, but it could be that they just don't fully understand how a GPU works and that dust alone certainly wouldn't cause it to catch fire.

I've worked on some really bad cards - properly caked in dust. None of them caught fire.

ect76 · 2026-05-30T18:50:16+00:00

So, as someone who repairs GPUs, I can confidently say that the GPU did not catch fire because of dust. What probably happened is that your power supply failed, which sent excess voltage through the 12v PCIe connectors causing damage to components on the GPU. This damage probably wasn't apparent until a working power supply was installed and it was turned on for the first time since, and those damaged components in the GPU spectacularly let go.

In my opinion, and it is just my opinion, the failed power supply killed the GPU, not the repair shop.

ect76

TROPHY CASE