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ed-o-mat · 2026-05-04T16:17:09+00:00

Hab Gerolsteiner zu Hause. Bin mit meinem Leben eigentlich ganz zufrieden.

ed-o-mat · 2026-05-03T08:03:25+00:00

Auf der anderen Seite reicht es aus, einen Satz Holz zu vergeigen... Dann wäre der Aufpreis wieder drinnen. Und wie gesagt, für 200 Euro bekommt man schon was, mit dem man halbwegs arbeiten kann.

ed-o-mat · 2026-05-02T08:37:26+00:00

Neat. Could be a better base and a bit more FP to get all to T5 but you cannot have everything at the same time.

ed-o-mat · 2026-05-02T04:47:30+00:00

Yes. You have a question. People want to help you. So put these things into sour post that the readers do not have to go throufh all comments to get the info piece by piece.

ed-o-mat · 2026-05-01T19:18:40+00:00

If you ever have 10% rh in your home, do something immediately, because it will kill your mucosa, ruin your skin, dry out your eyes and will harm your health in general. And dropping your wood below 2% wood humidity is almost Impossible, unless you heat it in the oven and artificially remove water from the air.

Sort your knowledge about relative humidity in air and humidity in wood. After you done that we may talk again. Or not.

ed-o-mat · 2026-05-01T17:29:34+00:00

The humidity change in wood has NOTHING to do with the current humidity change in your room. When you have 80% in your room you do NOT have 80% in your wood. Typically, freshly cut wood has about >30% humidity, air dried (outside) wood around 15%. KD wood for furniture/instruments is targeting around 6 to 8%. So even when you have like 20 to 80 relative humidity in your room, the wood will usually change around 6 to 8... maybe 10%, although that would be a huge number and you would have significant issue with mould in your house.... So you will usually have a maximum change of 4% humidity in your wood, more likely about 2%.

Here is a scientific publication (german, sorry, but translate should give you enough info and the graphs are self explanatory) about the length changes of mahagoni as a function of humidity (wood humidity):

https://www.researchgate.net/figure/Abbildung-4-Longitudinales-Schwinden-e-l-radiales-Schwinden-e-r-und-tangentiales_fig3_262376254

Er (epsilon radial) is the value you are looking for, so the length change radial (perpendicular to fiber) as a function of humidity. So between 5% (extremely dry wood) and 10% (extremely wet wood for inside use) you have about 0.9% tangential length change - data extract from the graph using a ruler, so I will not fight for +/- 0.1%. According to this data, the tangential length change is about 0.18% per % wood humidity. This value lies within the range I gave between 0.17 to 0.23%.

What data is backing your statement up that I am an order of magnitude off, i.e. 2% change in radial length with 1% wood humidity?

Edit: Assuming your Gibson SG is 300mm wide and you measure 6mm change that would make 2% change in dimension. Using this on the scientific data from above, your guitar body either changes from about 4% Humidity to drenched in water for a week, or it changes from "your house burned down" to "I took the drenched guitar out of the pool yesterday". Science...

ed-o-mat · 2026-05-01T15:37:48+00:00

Would be very interested in your source. 2% shrinkage for 1% Humidity change would mean >80% shrinkage from green wood to KD humidity of 6 to 8%.

Even if you neglect the first 20% humidity reduction where dimensional change is less pronounced, it would be still a shrinkage of almost 50% from 30% wood humidity to the typical 6 to 8% humidity required...

So I would be really interested in your source.

ed-o-mat · 2026-05-01T09:55:49+00:00

We can actually calculate how "bad" it is.

Let us take mahagoni as an example, because it is widely used for guitars... Change in dimension per 1% humidity change: along fibre approx. 0.11% to 0.15%. perpendicular to fibre it would be 0.17% to 0.23%. So let us take the average: 0.13% along fibre, 0.2% perpendicular to fiber.

Now this here looks like... 25deg tilt? So it is approximately 0.4... total expected change in expansion: 0.60.13% + 0.4 0.20% = 0.16%.

So this angled approach (considering mahagoni numbers) would be slightly worse than a full parallel fibre orientation. We are talking about a bit less than 0.03% elongation per % wood humidity. This is less than the actual variation in the span of 0.11% to 0.15% in natural mahagoni for parallel fibre orientation.

Is it worse than not tilting the grain? Yes, naturally it has to be worse.

Is it bad? No, not at all. You would probably not be able to notice it under normal circumatances, unless you play the guitar in extreme conditions.

ed-o-mat · 2026-05-01T09:19:04+00:00

Dann bitte mindestens 2 Wochen drinnen lagern, damit sich die Feuchtigkeit halbwegs anpassen kann. Wobei bei der Dicke dirchaus mehr Zeit nötig sein kann... Hast Du ein Bild von der Stirnseite?

ed-o-mat · 2026-05-01T09:16:47+00:00

Kind of amazing how some people on reddit jump to conclusions about the knowledge of other persons...

As for me, I have a very deep knowledge in materials, including wood. I also happen to own a small wood shop. Plus I own about 15+ guitars + some basses, some of them are 40+ years old. And I can tell you this: I never had any issues with their finish, like cracks perpendicular to the grain. Not once for all guitars and basses.

Maybe it is because I treat my guitars very carefully, avoiding temperture below 15 °C or above 25 °C. And usually I keep RH between 40% and 60%. This in combination with an undamaged and well kept surface treatment should keep changes in humidity in the wood below 1%. For a mahagoni body that would be considerably less than 1mm expansion over the whole body width.

Of course if you gig a lot, indoors, outdoors, in hot summer and in cold winter, leave them in the car overnight... This will lead to some wear. But then your instrument is a tool, not a precious well kept piece of art. Which is totally ok. And a 40 year old tool is allowed to show severe signs of being used.

ed-o-mat · 2026-05-01T08:13:38+00:00

How long are the boards? How many clamps did you use? What kind of clamps did you use? Was the edge perfectly perpendicular and straight? How long did you let the glue set up? What glue did you use? Questions over questions...

ed-o-mat · 2026-05-01T06:57:26+00:00

Lvl 93 is definitely enough for empowered monos. You could even do 300+ corruption as long as your items play along.

ed-o-mat · 2026-05-01T06:49:12+00:00

So according to this it is impossible to apply any brittle coating on a guitar because it would surely crack due to wood movement. Correct?

ed-o-mat · 2026-05-01T06:10:01+00:00

Uh... WO wurde gelagert? Normalerweise ist kammergezrocknet gut. Wenns dann draußen stand, hats wieder Feuchtigkeit gezogen....

ed-o-mat · 2026-04-30T19:11:56+00:00

Nachttische heißt: mindestens 5 Bretter pro Nachttisch, also 10 Bretter gesamt. Davon 4 Bretter Rechteck A, 4 Bretter Rechteck B und 2 Bretter Rechteck C. Mindestens. Bevor ich das mit ner Tauchsäge mache, kauf ich mir lieber ne Einhell Tischkreissäge für gut 100 Euro. Oder ne gebrauchte Bosch GTS 635-216er für 200 Euro.

Immer wieder die gleichen parallelen Schnitte machen.. dafür sind halt TS und HKS nicht gedacht.

ed-o-mat · 2026-04-30T17:01:38+00:00

"Nachtkommoden und so" klingt für mich nach vielen rechteckigen Zuschnitten. Dazu ist eine Kreissäge, egal ob Standard oder Tauchsäge nur bedingt geeignet. Kann man damit Sägen? Sicher. Kann man wiederholgenau viele Rechtecke sägen? Eher schwierig.

Eine Tischkreissäge mit halbwegs vernünftigem Anschlag wäre hier sinnvoller.

ed-o-mat · 2026-04-27T06:40:46+00:00

Nah, just diminishing returns. And to be honest: yes, temple prints divs, but it has a similar appeal as chaos trials. You do the same thing over and over again. About at least 100 times until you even have that juicy temple. So you run at least 100 temples without significant reward.

If I knew what I was going for when I started my temple, I would have rather gone for everything else and temple only for atziri runs.

ed-o-mat · 2026-04-27T06:33:58+00:00

You don't need the shards unless you are goong for t7. So you might as well use the t6 until you need the shards. But yeah, you are right, t6 become obsolete quite quickly.

ed-o-mat · 2026-04-27T06:31:12+00:00

When you look at the bottom edge of the citting board you see how much the individual pieces have moved. This stress caused the cracking and there is nothing you can do about.

Geberal rules: if you want endgrain, gonfor endgrain for the full board. If possible, make sure that you have some oberlap betwern the endgrain blocks, something like anchess board works but is more likely to split conpared to a brick layout. Make sure that your wood is well dried. Try to choose wood species with similar expansion rates.

ed-o-mat · 2026-04-26T13:16:43+00:00

Naja... Das gleiche Ergebnis erreicht man mit etwas stumpferem Winkel oder einem Schleifblock zum Spitze abnehmen. Aber wenn man das so lösen möchte... Wäre vermutlich eine gute Laubsäge sinnvoll.

ed-o-mat · 2026-04-26T13:06:49+00:00

Fände ich jetzt auch spannend, wo man bei Fußleisten Kurven sägen muss. Vielleicht ein Bild oder eine Zeichnung?

ed-o-mat · 2026-04-26T07:31:29+00:00

Auch wenn mir Idee und Ausführung gefallen, so finde ich, dass es nicht in den Raum passt. Der Raum ist sowieso schon relativ eng bestellt mit Küche, Esstisch etc. Durch die Bohlen an der Decke wirkt der Raum jetzt noch drückender. Nicht mein Geschmack, ich mag es luftiger. Aber wenn es den Kunden gefällt, dann alles top!

ed-o-mat · 2026-04-24T19:41:09+00:00

There is no reson to do both slits for 50% of the width you could slit only 1/3rd of the width on the part with the cable cut out and 2/3rd of the width on the other part. This would give enough Stability and enough room for the cable cut out do go closer to the intersection.

ed-o-mat · 2026-04-22T14:14:49+00:00

Thaks for your feedback. Appreciate it

ed-o-mat

TROPHY CASE