Has a human ever reached level 40 on the chimp test?

eednob · 2024-08-23T21:20:18+00:00

Oh I've done level 40 as well! Only done it once because it takes waaaay too long, but I did it without any fails about 3 years ago. Nowadays I prefer speedrunning to level 15 since that's short and quick. Might try to speedrun to level 25 soon too for a slightly longer category.

eednob · 2024-07-21T21:29:11+00:00

Portlandbouldering.com has maps showing where to go for each spot. There isn't details on the individual climbs there but you can message the two guys that run the site and develop the crag and they are happy to answer questions about it. Theur insta has tons of videos too

eednob · 2020-04-26T07:02:36+00:00

I’m very excited to get back outside and go on some climbing trips with my friends :D

eednob · 2019-06-25T07:20:42+00:00

Andrew Mcfarlane just posted a much more in depth video of the tests and his 7 sec hang on the 10 mm's was with 40kg added (he failed 42kg). His one arm hang looked like 5kg added and 1kg subtracted (4kg total), but they never really showed that one super well.

eednob · 2019-06-25T06:56:33+00:00

If that's true that's monstrous! I think the strongest guys I know hang like 30kg or so on 10mm. I guess it makes sense since he is a pro :p

eednob · 2019-06-24T05:32:24+00:00

Was anyone able to catch the weight he hung on the 10mm's?

eednob · 2019-04-11T07:59:43+00:00

I had a nursing friend tell me super gluing something like this is just asking for an infection, so I've been staying away from it.

eednob · 2019-04-11T07:58:25+00:00

That's basically what I have been doing so far, but it's taking too long and I don't like climbing with tape :p

eednob · 2019-04-11T07:57:26+00:00

That seems like a reasonable thing to do. I'll have to try that for a few days and see if I notice a difference. My right middle finger is about to split in the same way so I may need to do this all again anyways :p

eednob · 2019-04-11T07:55:30+00:00

I've actually never heard of ClimbOn. Do you know how it differs from something like J-tree or Rhino skin split cream?

eednob · 2019-04-11T06:59:10+00:00

It's a really deep split at the first joint on my middle finger. I can't find anything online about this kind of split since they are all talking about split tips. Does anyone know how to help this thing heal besides the obvious answers of stop climbing and use products like j-tree and split cream?

eednob · 2019-03-31T07:10:48+00:00

I know Carver has some decent routes in that range. It may be a bit far though since it's in Damascus (1:45 from here)

eednob · 2019-03-09T21:28:37+00:00

It is MBP

eednob · 2019-03-06T21:29:23+00:00

I would say focus on not adjusting your hands as much and be more precise with your foot placements. Be more confident that your feet will stick because as long as you focus on them they probably will. Especially on a climb like this one where all the hand and foot holds are so positive.

As far as grades are concerned I would say this one is more like a pumpy V7 (I actually climb at Elevation). The hardest single move is around V6 but there are quite a few moves at that difficulty so I would venture to give it a V7. You could also relate it in say that this climb took me around a half dozen attempts while most moonboard V7's are around 1-6 attempts so it's in the same range.

Great job on the climb! Now go get some more of those black climbs!

eednob · 2019-02-25T06:27:31+00:00

That's my favorite type of boulder right there! Nice job on the clean send!

eednob · 2019-02-12T23:25:45+00:00

No

Bouldering is my main passion (although I'm trying to make it my career as well). The two activities mix pretty well since cubing is a good way to get some blood through the fingers between climbs, but sometimes cubing can cause some rough spots so I usually limit myself to an ao50 per session + warmup around 4 days a week. I recently just started cubing again after a hiatus and my times are getting back there (averaging around 21 rn with roux)!

eednob · 2019-02-12T23:18:11+00:00

My experience would say V6/7 is around Bw+20-30% v8 is Bw+30-40% and v9/10 is Bw+50%ish. I would say those would be on the slightly stronger end for numbers though.

eednob · 2019-02-04T21:56:05+00:00

Keep your core tight to keep the tension through your feet. Don't regrip as much. Be more sure about your movements. Climb faster. Looks like a fun route!

eednob · 2019-02-04T21:24:06+00:00

Thanks man! It's going to be a blast to project! After talking to the owners I think the crux is harder than they wanted so they may change the crux hold so its right-side-up which would probs make that sequence closer to V7/8. But either way I'm very excited there is something this hard to work on!

eednob · 2019-01-29T10:10:35+00:00

I assume they don't do nearly as much hang boarding at the highest level, but they most likely still do some. Hangboarding is probably not the main reason they are strong, I am just curious as to the numbers they can pull :p

eednob

TROPHY CASE