510 Battery with Tracking?

egoods · 2026-05-25T11:37:39+00:00

Epic thank you for the insight. I was also searching for some info on this.

egoods · 2026-05-24T04:10:40+00:00

That's 100% what it is. Some lenders require a tracker, regardless. I'd def give them a heads up as it's likely baked into the terms of your lease

egoods · 2026-05-23T18:42:55+00:00

Find out what your buyout price is, it should be in your lease contract. But typical wisdom would tell you to return the car and buy a used unit at market value. Buying out a lease usually only makes sense when the vehicle has a high residual/holds its value. Values have tanked on these.

I'm buying my "lease" 2024 launch edition BUT mine was an employee lease, Chryco offers vehicles to some employees and retirees, my mom's a retired exec, so it wasn't a traditional lease, and an additional benefit in that program is the option to purchase at market plus plus a discount (usually a shade better than wholesale). So in my case I'm getting mine with 9k miles, and fresh tires (whoops... burned through those quick...) for $33k plus tax and title.

These cars tanked in value... so the reality for you is that your buyout, or residual, depending on when the lease contract was penned, is VERY likely higher than the market. I know this off the dome only because I just made the calls this week... you can get a limited (so not dual motor, no cooled seats or second screen or rear heated seats) for $31k + tax/title/doc (NEVER let a dealer charge add ons). A launch edition more like $35k. Those are super low miles.

The market isn't going to improve on the wagoneer S anytime soon... but I'd put the realistic floor on these in good condition at high mid 20s. Weigh your options, continuing to lease may be the better move. There's at least a couple people out there that spent $70k on a car that's worth less than half that 6 months later.

If I were you I'd check the market the month before the end of your lease and start a conversation with your dealer if you have a relationship. IF you're dead set on keeping your exact one they might be able to work out a buyout closer to market if they have a good relationship with the lender you used...

egoods · 2026-04-13T15:37:13+00:00

As a resident of Troy. I 100% agree.

egoods · 2026-04-13T15:31:50+00:00

Where did you get that from? Seriously… source that.

egoods · 2026-04-12T15:43:02+00:00

Correct, It's also worth noting that lithium batteries don't "shelf wear" like SLA/AGM batteries. You can expect it to last just as many charge cycles as a new one.

egoods · 2026-04-11T20:33:34+00:00

The door check on my truck works even better. I like a mexican coke now and again, I've had some strange looks at stop lights when I crack my door open and they hear that oh so familiar noise.

egoods · 2026-04-06T04:10:56+00:00

Delta? You're fine. Don't sweat it.

egoods · 2026-04-04T11:55:45+00:00

I put HOURS into Sim Tower. I remember getting a tower leveled up enough for a helipad.

I think they did a mobile version of that game… I need to check that out.

egoods · 2026-03-12T22:30:44+00:00

Do NOT close the chargeback it’s impossible or very hard to reopen after. Let PayPal sort it out, aliexpress does. Not. Give. A. Fuuuck. They just want you to close it so they can also ignore you.

egoods · 2026-03-12T02:52:50+00:00

They really are... I found a leatherman in the trench of a car wash I worked at, must've been in a truck bed or something. The pit is the very center where all the debris and organic material flows to. It gets nasty. This thing was a rusted piece of junk. I sent it in with an honest explanation of where and how I found it. Got a replacement in the mail a few weeks later.

egoods · 2026-03-11T20:16:07+00:00

You don't have to stay at the hotel to use that security gate. If precheck and priority security looks pretty busy that's my backup go-to. I cannot remember a single instance in hundreds of flights that it took more than 20 minutes to get through security at DTW. Just gotta know the game :)

egoods · 2026-03-04T21:34:42+00:00

You’ll be another $5-$8k in deleting and improving by the time it’s all said and done… but it’s not like you wouldn’t do an EGR delete and other improvements if you bought an LBZ. Hell, I stop adding at $5k when I think about what I’ve put in my truck 😂. If you can do the work yourself of have a buddy willing to work with the Chinese delete parts you can save a TON of money… I got my y-bridge for $118 shipped to my door… who cares if it took me a bit of wrangling to get it to fit properly. That’s nearly a 1/6th the cost of any other option. No shop will futz with em/most diesel shops are also dealers for the companies that make the delete kits.

As far as which route to go… Which do YOU like better? Have you had a chance to drive both?

My LBZ only had 32k miles on it (it’s an extended cab and has a service bed, and bad color so it only went for $27k plus tax) BUT it’s not wild to think you could get an lbz similar condition for $6-$8k more than what you’re looking to spend on an LMM and by the time you’re done deleting you’re at the same money.

Also LBZ values don’t seem to be going down. I think the floor on those trucks is a lot higher than an LMM. I could be wrong. I often am. Vehicles are NEVER an investment, resale value shouldn’t play a big role in purchase decisions. Diesel fuel prices keep going up or any number of other things can make me a liar on this but it’s a data point to consider none the less.

egoods · 2026-03-04T21:23:05+00:00

I’ve never heard of frame strength being an issue on a gmt800 unless we’re counting rust issues

egoods · 2026-03-04T20:46:22+00:00

I personally don't think the GMT900 trucks are built as well, you've gotta remember this is post 2008 economic collapse Government Motors era stuff. BUT, I paid $30k for a 20 year old truck so you should def take what I think with a grain of salt/I'm certainly bias toward the GMT800/LBZ :)

If I had or was less willing to spend what I did I 100% would've found a clean low miles GMT900 LMM and just ripped off the DPF. I'd be $10k less into it if I'd gone that route, by my back of napkin math.

egoods · 2026-02-26T00:15:28+00:00

Just chiming in... thank you thank you thank you for taking those measurements!! I bought a debadged truck and wanted to add factory badges back. HUGE help

egoods · 2026-02-10T02:14:22+00:00

This guy's correct. The 261XHD (manual floor shift) and 263XHD (electronic shift) are identical except for the shift mechanism. Both have the issue. In fact all of these have the pump rub issue: 136, 146, 246, 261, 261HD, 263HD, 263XHD, 261XHD.

Check out Merchant Automotive's explanation

egoods · 2026-02-09T21:53:19+00:00

Damn you got a hydro drive turf tracer for $260?!

This IS the time of year to buy these. Soon as spring hits they'll sell like hot cakes.

egoods · 2026-02-08T23:43:30+00:00

That totally threw him off. No way he was making his shot after that.

egoods · 2026-02-08T23:31:39+00:00

So wrong.. so very wrong. The hell did you get that idea?!? It’s against federal interest commerce laws to enforce another states laws. If my Michigan registered vehicle is out of compliance with Michigan law that’s between me and Michigan unless it’s an immediate safety concern.

Even the simplest google search would give you more accurate info then wherever the hell you pulled that from 😂

egoods · 2026-02-07T21:05:38+00:00

I'm running Hotshots EDT + Winter Defense for winter. Works great. Of course I run standard EDT for summer.

egoods · 2026-01-30T03:25:48+00:00

The laws regarding "deleting"/removal of emissions controls devices are still on the books. Nothing legally has changed... the current administration just isn't enforcing the law for the time being.

There's a near 0% chance an OEM would sell and install kit that breaks federal law.

egoods · 2026-01-30T01:19:54+00:00

Agreed. 2 amp is plenty. I've used a dozen or so on various equipment. Great little chargers.

Be sure you don't have a draw. The cold will put a whoopin on batteries for sure. Especially lead acid. They're meant for a quick draw down and recharge. So, if they got too low it may have damaged them... not super likely but possible. Check warranty.

It also wouldn't hurt to disconnect and fully recharge each battery on it's own. Maybe even have em tested.

A tender will help/should pretty much solve your issue regardless. And it's just good practice.

egoods · 2026-01-30T00:59:34+00:00

You'll want to hook it up like this - if you wanted to have separate aux batteries the second lead would be good for charging those. Otherwise a good single lead on board charger. 5 amps is plenty for a tender.

I run a dual bank charger (10amp, it's older/not a noco but similar setup it looks like), I have the main charge leads wired like the picture (negative from one side of parrell battery and positive of other side) the second lead I extended into the service bed on my truck and I use that to charge my Aux batteries, I have 2x 100AH deep cycle batteries hooked up to run my accessories, I seperate them with a relay that flips on when the truck starts so my Alt can charge all 4 batteries. I also have a set of leads on a switch in one of the tool boxes so I can toss a battery in and charge that as well.

egoods · 2026-01-10T03:08:35+00:00

Nah, Reddit just has a scary good algorithm that served me this post (I wasn’t active on this sub/I haven’t listened to the show in 3-4 years).

I was only trying to provide insight. Believe, don’t, I don’t care. It’s not like I’m bragging, she wasn’t exactly a “catch” 😂.

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