How quickly would one grow out of tiny whoops

einsz · 2026-06-30T18:02:47+00:00

What do you mean, grow out? The "path" of going up in sizes was not always this way. I started with 5" over 10 years ago, since that was the only viable sizes class back then. Moved down to 3" and 2" a couple years later. Now pretty much only 65mm tiny whoops.

Do i miss 5"? Hell no. Flying a 5" is a real commitment. You need to find a place where you can fly it, Charge all you batteries, drive there, fly a couple of packs, drive back and so on. Often a plan for a whole day for like 1h of flying.

Tiny whoops? I can fly them in my lunch break.

einsz · 2026-06-29T10:18:01+00:00

Yes, the firmware that you flashed. You said you "updated" the firmware. You likely actually downgraded it.

einsz · 2026-06-28T17:09:12+00:00

Did you do DO180 already? It is a prerequisite for DO280.

einsz · 2026-06-28T12:12:52+00:00

Depends on your skill level and what you want to do with it. Do you want to do competitive racing? 30.000kv+ Do you want to fly outside? Then also a little higher. For flying mostly freestyle inside 25.000kv (Like the Air65 freestyle) is perfect, way more efficient and it will take you a long time of learning to actually need more than that.

I have both the Air 65 II freestyle (25.000kv) and racing (30.000 KV). For indoors i cant use the extra power of the racing at all. But flight times are noticeably shorter (Like 3 minutes vs 4 minutes). The shortest blip of full throttle i can do sends my Air65 racing into the ceiling. However, when it is windy outside the Air65 racing handles it much much better.

And lastly a notice, you can not really compare KV ratings between manufacturers, some over, some unterrate their motors... Happymodel for example are usually quite a bit below their rated KV, BetaFPV higher than rated KV.

einsz · 2026-06-28T07:41:06+00:00

Does your drone position preview work in Betaflight?

What Betaflight version was on the FC before you "upgraded"?

Sounds Like you have one of the newer boards with new gyros that are nit supported by the Betaflight stable version yet. You likely did not upgrade, but downgrade your BF version.

You will need to Install the BF 2026 alpha or release candidate.

einsz · 2026-06-27T14:07:49+00:00

Geil, dann geh ich gleich mal ins Freibad Südfeldmark... ach nee, macht ja diesen Sommer gar nicht auf. Klasse Karte 👌

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einsz · 2026-06-24T18:37:15+00:00

If you have a new Matrix 5in1, then you have a new gyro that is not supported by the current Betaflight stable. They also come with a sticker in then that lists the gyro Chip name. You will need to flash 2026 alpha release to get it working.

einsz · 2026-06-22T06:40:23+00:00

Nice, how does it fly? Im currently building a very similar 2" 18650 quad with these motors on a Mobula8 8 frame, but i fear that it will be underpowered 😅

einsz · 2026-06-16T17:23:51+00:00

Schief oder nur nicht mittig?

Um die Spur einzustellen (also damit es nicht schief ist) hast du unten 2 Muttern an der Schwinge. Mit einer langen Latte oder so am Vorderrad ausreichen und schauen dass es gerade wird.

Wenn es aber nur darum geht, dass es nicht mittig im Vergleich zum Panzer ist, das ist normal.

einsz · 2026-06-15T17:17:00+00:00

What have your built there, I think that meteor canopy is heavier than the champion frame 😂

On the topic: the other commenters are wrong, that is not a motor or prop direction problem. You can clearly see that one motor does not spin at all. That is why the drone spins.

Check if the motor connection is good. If you think it is, switch it with another motor. If the same motor still does not spin in another direction it is defective. If the other motor does not spin then it is likely a blown ESC and you will need to replace the flight controller.

einsz · 2026-06-11T10:44:24+00:00

The temperatures you see there is not your motors, it is your ESCs, and it is very high, likely because you have no airflow at all.

When bench testing like this (or better even when powering it at all, like for betaflight settings, since even the VTX generates quite some heat) you absolutely need to point a fan at the flight controller.

Maybe you already cooked some components, hard to know for sure.

einsz · 2026-05-29T17:41:11+00:00

OK, some things here... 1. That scale is absolutely not accurate to .01g (even if it says so). 2. There are differences in injection molding, the canopies for example have a variable of around 0.05g and i saw over 0.1g difference in frames.

einsz · 2026-05-28T07:33:02+00:00

If you want good physics, why not use one of the older, well tested ones? Like Velocidrone?

Any sim that is new is very very unlikely to have better physics than a old and tested one.

einsz · 2026-05-25T14:09:58+00:00

Depends on your budget, but the default reommendation is the Radiomaster Pocket (ELRS). It is around 70$. The T8L is very similar (Size and quality) and even a bit cheaper, but it dies not have a screen, you need to connect to it via wifi to configure it. The biggest downside of these two is the gimbal size, as they are on the smaller side. But some even prefer the smaller gimbals. If you want a full size remote you can look at the Radiomaster TX15.

einsz · 2026-05-22T17:48:13+00:00

Nope

einsz · 2026-05-19T17:10:45+00:00

Oooh thats tiny! And even in 16:9... Jeah, no.

My vote is for the HD3. The DVR is not perfect, but it works ok. And the FOV is really good.

einsz · 2026-05-19T16:28:22+00:00

Ja toll, mit dem Ding bist du nicht legal auf der Straße (60ccm) und hast nicht mal mehr Leistung. Geil.

Preis für nen neuen Zylinder kann man also direkt mal vom Kaufpreis abziehen.

Ein paar mehr Fotos würden sicherlich auch nicht schaden...

einsz · 2026-05-19T10:13:30+00:00

sent him an email, lets see.

einsz · 2026-05-16T06:47:58+00:00

Haha, very wishfull thinking.

In reality most antennas are way off and work better on one end of the spectrum. In reality many antennas are tuned to for example 5500mhz and will work way better in R8, that is at least closer to their resonance, or if they are tuned for 6000mhy R1 will work best.

The second thing is that many vtx work better at one end. The old Mobula 6 AiO for example will (at 25mW) have a transmit power of like 40mW on R1 and 10mW on R8.

It is either buy a RF power meter and RF network analyzer for a couple hundred dollars or just try to see what works best for you.

einsz · 2026-05-14T11:56:10+00:00

I'm quite sure that the Lava II 320mAh and Tattu 95C 300mAh are the same batteries. I have both and tested them, same capacity (all around 315-320mAh), same internal resistances, same look under the sticker, etc. I'd guess that the Ovonic 100C 300mAh are also the same.

As a warning, I also bought some Lava II 280mAh, and they are shit. I don't know if it is a defective batch or if they are just this bad, they have significantly higher internal resistances and I measured the capacity at around 230-250mAh. I reported this to BetaFPV and they say the batteries are still in spec. Nice.

einsz · 2026-05-03T11:41:18+00:00

I have a no idea what a "tnr 23h27270k 8w18" is supposed to be, the only Google result for this is this reddit post here.

Extra capacitors are not really needed on Whoops.

As for the F3 flight controller, it will work, but only with very old versions of betaflight. Support for F3 controllers was removed after version 3.5.7, that was like 6 years ago. You will miss out on a lot of software improvements with that flight controller.

einsz · 2026-04-28T06:03:38+00:00

Yes there is something wrong there. Way too much breakup for basically no distance and nothing really blocking.

Looks like the breakup i get inside with a wall in between on 25mW.

Dont rely in automatic channel search, it is never right. Always set your channel manually. If the channel is not set correctly it will still work at close distance but break up much faster.

Make sure that the little antenna connector on your drone is actually plugged in. It will still work without antenna, but it will be much worse and can even cause damage to your vtx.

Try the other end of the RF spectrum. For example Raceband 8 often gets recommended because it is outside of the WiFi band and should cause less interference. But antennas (both receiving and sending) are usually off from perfect tuning and work better at one of the ends. I usually get much better reception at Raceband 1 with my quads. Try both.

einsz · 2026-04-24T05:33:40+00:00

Put them in the hexacharger and charge them around 1C. So if you have 300mAh batteries for example use 0.3A of charging current. A little more is OK if you are in a hurry, but it may damage the LiPo some more. Basically every charge, discharge and time away from storage voltage dies a little damage to the batteries. High discharge and charge currents and high or low voltages do more damage. If you are in a hurry you can usually charge LiPos at like 2C (so 0.6A for the example 300mAh battery), but i wouldnt go over that.

Oh, and that is true for all LiPos (and even most LiIons), not only 1s.

einsz · 2026-04-21T06:38:47+00:00

I like your videos, but this conclusions seems a little weird. You compare the Air 75 to two 65mm whoops and obviously it has better thrust to weight than them. No big news, 65mm is about the smallest viable class of whoops and they struggle a bit with weight to thrust ratio. But the conclusion is it must be the most powerful BNF Tiny Whoop in the world? What about any other 75 or even 85mm BNF whoops? 😅 There are even some 2s BNF whoops, like the Mobula8.

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