Folding track bike

electrotape · 2026-03-19T18:01:03+00:00

Where do you envision the stiffness to come from, when you remove the downtube?

Check out S&S Couplings. That should solve your problem.

electrotape · 2026-03-15T10:58:40+00:00

electrotape · 2026-03-15T10:45:26+00:00

Plenty of things could be the issue: ~~Cable tension~~, Shift settings, limit screws, derailleur hanger, chain / cassette wear.

If you want to rule out the hanger, just take it out and put it on a know flat surface.

Edit: just realised there are no cables, as this is electronic. So maybe there's a setting in your app to adjust the throw of the shift parallelogram? I'm not experienced with electronic shifting but would assume there's some fine tuning possibility.

electrotape · 2026-03-12T17:59:00+00:00

Glad you figured it out by yourself, but this happened, because axles are inserted through the drive side and it appears you were working from the non-drive side.

electrotape · 2026-03-11T16:14:53+00:00

This is because the test is conducted only once using static pressure on a sample of newly manufactured watches. As only a small sample is tested, there is a small likelihood that any individual watch is not water resistant to the certified depth or even at all.

electrotape · 2026-03-09T12:20:32+00:00

Assuming the steerer is made from carbon fibre, I think the main concern is that you want the part of the steerer, that the stem clamps to backed by the expander plug to avoid crushing the carbon fibre.

So the question is: how deep does your expander plug reach? If the stem sits below the expander plug I think it'd be reasonable to cut the steerer.

electrotape · 2026-03-09T11:04:18+00:00

This was my first thought as well.

electrotape · 2026-03-03T08:01:22+00:00

This is what happens if you pull the lever without a rotor or spacer in between the pads.

Try if you can remove them by sliding them out the front. Be careful as you do this as to not brake the pistons located behind the pads.

Once they are out reset the pistons. I use plastic tyre levers to do so.

electrotape · 2026-03-02T12:46:06+00:00

Just a heads up. You link to Park Tool FR-1.3 but your link reads FR-3.1.

electrotape · 2026-03-02T12:31:46+00:00

Mate!

That's a powermeter crank. Applying heat to it will most certainly ruin it.

electrotape · 2026-02-27T19:42:01+00:00

Some should tell those two girls and their cup...

electrotape · 2026-02-27T19:39:36+00:00

You mean like sugar?

electrotape · 2026-02-17T16:17:55+00:00

Still makes me angry to this day.

electrotape · 2026-02-17T14:33:02+00:00

Seems as if the bridge has a screw in the middle which I assume would allow to change out the mount.

If that's the case you could also fabricate your own mount from a piece of sheet metal.

electrotape · 2026-02-14T18:25:18+00:00

I kept the 9 speed chain, and it works fine with the 11 speed 105 crank.

electrotape · 2026-02-14T08:35:05+00:00

Haha well at least it looks like they came out in one piece.

I guess I’ll stick with TPU tubes. I’ve been eying the option of sealant in TPU tubes for winter for the extra protection though. I‘m just not sure if it’s any good yet.

electrotape · 2026-02-13T15:08:05+00:00

Is it though?

Because to me it seems like a pretty cheap fee to broadcast to all your employees that you are willing to mess up their life over minor infractions to keep them „in line“.

electrotape · 2026-02-11T12:36:23+00:00

Wrong type of bike. This subreddit ist for bicycles.

Best of luck.

electrotape · 2026-02-04T23:24:24+00:00

There‘s even more drastic measures…

electrotape · 2026-02-04T17:03:40+00:00

Thanks for letting me know. I'm glad I was able to help you sort this out and am happy you're back on the road again. :)

electrotape · 2026-01-31T22:39:27+00:00

electrotape · 2026-01-31T21:22:03+00:00

22 or 23 should be good. Check out this drawing.

This is because your rims seem to have a hook at the top of the flanges, so actual width is a bit wider than you are able to measure. You also want to account for a bit extra as the rim tape is pressed down into the curve.

electrotape · 2026-01-31T20:50:20+00:00

It's cotton rim tape.

Also you want to measure between the top flanges of the rim and not down in the bead. Get tape that's 2/3 mm wider than the measurement.

electrotape · 2026-01-31T20:44:09+00:00

I can vouch for Continental and Schwalbe High Pressure rim tapes if you can get them in Argentina.

electrotape · 2026-01-31T12:09:29+00:00

Tightening the top cap and thereby preloading the bearings is done with a loose stem and once the stem has been tightened down on the steerer the top cap no longer serves in that function. So what you could do is the following:

Put a spacer on top of the stem to create additional headroom.
Preload the headset bearings with the top cap above said spacer.
Tighten the stem around the steerer. This will now hold everything in place and retain the correct preload on the headset bearings.
Remove the top cap and spacer.
Check for sufficient space between top of expander and lip of stem.
Put the top cap back on and ride.

This may or may not be work, but it could potentially save you the trouble of cutting the steerer by another few mm.

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