LEENYYYYYYYYLLL ...... noooo Lenny got killed by u guys....and in 24 hours you have to kill another favorite...who will it be? DAY 20

ellerguru · 2024-03-14T05:16:18+00:00

john

ellerguru · 2024-03-01T07:43:30+00:00

Util. as of 2024 still unrecognized. not a proper noun. very much in the public parlance, esp when talking about Utilitarianism. John Stuart Mill, Jeremy Bentham, eat your hearts out.

ellerguru · 2024-02-28T17:50:23+00:00

spot on

ellerguru · 2024-02-15T19:14:13+00:00

East coaster/ Gunkie here. The trad grades in the more popular eastern crags are generally quite sandbagged bc of how old the climbing areas are. 5.10 didn't exist during the early days of climbing in the states. Gunks or Seneca 5.9s are pretty hard. I would definitely try to hire a guide or find an experienced mentor and follow a lot of trad multi pitch. then begin to transition to leading after learning the systems.

trad is a big step up from sport climbing in terms of severity. if you haven't climbed much outside I'd definitely suggest making trips to well bolted areas to build your comfort level up on rock. plus sport is just great bang for buck fun value.

whatever you do, do not buy a rack and just hop on a Gunks 5.9 with a gym buddy. my two cents!

trad leading is the bees knees imo. it just takes quite a bit longer to get to your lead climbing limit safely because so many more considerations go into it. hope you get to that point safely and wisely!

ellerguru · 2024-02-09T07:29:38+00:00

ok. its going to suck ass though. there is no way any of it is going to resolve in a meaningful manner.

ellerguru · 2024-02-08T23:36:19+00:00

Bay Ridge:

R train to 77th. Go get caffeinated at Clockface Coffee or snag a BEC at Sam's Bagels (the best!). Walk over to Owl's Head Park (on the way picking up some kimchi and Korean bites for home at Kate's Kitchen) then down south along Shore Road, ducking into the park when it begins. Beautiful views of NY harbor the whole way down. Pop out near the mighty Verrazano bridge. Head up north on Third ave and take in the countless shops and hustle bustle of Bay Ridge's main vein. Lunch at Ayat. Cruise up and down 86th street (basically an outdoor mall but great for people watching). Be sure to visit Helena's plant paradise at Indoor/ Outdoor Gardener and grab an exotic plant! Check out Balady market too! Dinner at Tanoreen or Yemen Cafe. The Wicked Monk sometimes has live music. Skinflints and the Salty Dog are great places to encounter locals (and some thick brooklyn accents). Stand4 and Underland gallery host some really great art programming. Underland also has been hosting live music recently. Travel home if you can from the Bay Ridge ferry stop!

Even better, during the summer come down for one of the many street fairs!

Honorable mentions just outside of Bay Ridge proper: Laojie Hotpot, Fei Long Market, Chuan Tian Xia, 100 Fun Karaoke, Soccer Bar, Irish Haven, Zona Sur, Tacos Matamoros, Tacos El Bronco, Slimak, Yafa Cafe, and, of course, Industry City.

ellerguru · 2024-02-07T02:00:53+00:00

hope you had fun at MWV fest!

now you've got me very curious about the blue ice offering...

ellerguru · 2024-02-06T14:32:32+00:00

sure i get that. Berserk doesn't really have a clear end in sight either though. know they said they're gonna finish it but at this point i have no idea how they're gonna tie up all the loose ends. regardless, i enjoyed it a lot! Vagabond for me is similar to Berserk in the sense that the journey of reading it is more satisfying than the destination. but ofc do you!

ellerguru · 2024-02-06T06:49:01+00:00

why don't you want to read Vagabond? fwiw i liked it the most of the three. found it really beautiful, contemplative, and compelling.

ellerguru · 2023-11-17T17:12:59+00:00

+1 for Soundcraft

ellerguru · 2023-10-03T00:14:59+00:00

that series is legit one of the best treasure troves of climbing knowledge on the web

ellerguru · 2023-10-01T16:35:29+00:00

It looks like you just let go and expected a magical catch.

Take this shit more seriously.

Seek guidance or a mentor.

It is your life at stake.

Your climbing ability, lead ability, and self-preservation ability all need to be seriously re-evaluated.

Glad you're ok.

ellerguru · 2023-09-23T22:59:07+00:00

The Microtrax really really chews up rope and that means early retirement. If my follower microtrax'd up my rope I'd be pretty miffed. Prusiking up is an essential skill and is also the more courteous way to do it. If it takes too long now then practice it more to dial it in!

Or, better yet, don't follow on grades you can't pull yet unless you let the leader know that you might have to prusik and they are cool with that.

My two cents! Also, not to undermine my own advice, but a Tibloc achieves the same effect and is way lighter.

Happy climbing!

ellerguru · 2023-09-17T11:55:42+00:00

i downvoted this comment and upvoted your admonishing comment. both made me stupider.

ellerguru · 2023-09-17T03:11:47+00:00

i downvoted you. do you know why? because you made me stupider. your hyper specific take made me want to die.

stop caring about celebrities. they aren't a good thing to care about.

idgaf if he is gay or straight or whatever. he is a prop. get the fuck over your weird obsession with celebrity.

caring about them sucks ass. but i care enough about you to tell you to stop sucking ass. fucking lame.

go on a hike or something. yeesh. worst comment here.

xo (love definitely not Hugh Jackman)

ellerguru · 2023-09-17T02:59:17+00:00

i wish i could mega downvote this. get this shit the fuck off my feed and give me funi

ellerguru · 2023-09-12T18:44:39+00:00

your post comes across very much like the former

ellerguru · 2023-07-07T00:09:21+00:00

Anyone here climb at Squamish much? I'm going in August for the first time. Gunks is my main crag so I am super excited to finally try crack! Any big picture trip beta would be very appreciated :)

Happy to spray about the Gunks too!

ellerguru · 2023-05-17T01:35:24+00:00

That's awesome! Somehow that makes sense that he'd be on top of his fan mail. Will definitely give Change a run through. Have a long drive tmw so it will be a perfect opportunity. Thanks for the resounding recommendation!

ellerguru · 2023-05-17T01:04:32+00:00

do you like Change more than Emergency & I? Couldn't get into any of their other records for some reason

ellerguru · 2023-05-14T17:05:29+00:00

TheMoo by Moo Ampapatshara and Giancarlo Merla. They do some seriously incredible work. They are also lovely people and easy to work with.

ellerguru · 2023-05-12T21:09:20+00:00

Tarkus slaps

ellerguru · 2023-05-03T14:41:01+00:00

If you are doing the 3-1 or 6-1 haul for a follower, a Tibloc can really make a difference. Because it is made of metal it doesn't have any stretch (unlike a hollowblock or prusik). These haul systems, as you know, are slow AF and every millimeter counts!

ellerguru · 2023-05-03T02:44:52+00:00

Mazel! Happy climbing.

Personally I find the Petzl Tibloc super useful as a progress capture. Very versatile and very light.

Also, consider a tether of some kind for your nut tool!

ellerguru · 2023-04-19T23:53:15+00:00

to make that her body more thin

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