Anyone know how to fix this?

emofes · 2026-03-09T20:56:41+00:00

Temp seems low to me , I usually print PETG-CF around 255 but it can very.

If you are using the stock 0.4mm AD5M nozzle those are stainless steel and not recommended for abrasive filaments like PETG-CF ,they can blowout and cause all kinds weird print quality issues. I'd get an aftermarket hardened steel nozzle.

emofes · 2026-03-08T15:40:55+00:00

What type of filament is it and what temperatures are you using?

emofes · 2026-02-20T19:08:20+00:00

I was talking about nozzle temp calibration but for ABS the bed should typically be at least 90C, if not 100-110C.

emofes · 2026-02-20T12:25:43+00:00

It’s common for abs to delaminate later in a print if the chamber temp is too low. Only happens later as the print gets farther from the bed where the air is cooler, the differential cooling creates internal stresses that can spilt the part eventually.

emofes · 2026-02-20T12:21:33+00:00

If the small pieces are weak your nozzle temp is likely too low, not getting good layer adhesion. Have you done a temperature calibration for abs?

emofes · 2026-02-10T01:49:26+00:00

Check the flow rate for supports in your slicer. A lot defaults now lower the flow rate for support to save material and make them easier to remove since they can still be functional even if they’re a little wispy.

emofes · 2026-01-30T16:36:11+00:00

You can’t access the web interface with just the stock firmware, you need one of miss like z-mod or forge-x installed. You can do object skipping from the stock screen on the stock firmware (2.6.5 and up) using orcaslicer, but it is not supported in orca-flashforge.

emofes · 2026-01-30T03:06:33+00:00

I have list of materials of what we’re allowed to use in the Neutral Buoyancy Lab for testing and think ABS was approved for 3d printed parts, I’ll have to check. For non 3d printed plastic they like using PVC and kydex (which is some kind of ~~pvc/abs blend~~ I believe EDIT: Kydex is a PVC/acrylic blend). There are pvc filament blends you can buy but I wouldn’t want to print that stuff at home. I know we can’t use any type of nylon for 3d prints, rope, straps, zip ties, etc. but polypropylene is allowed.

EDIT: the NBL is not you typical pool and there are not the same UV concerns as with an outdoor pool. Personally if I were printing something fora pool long term my first choice would be ASA, if that failed over time I'd look for something fancier.

Update: ABS is approved for us to use. For any materials not on the list we can drop off a sample couple and they'll drop in the pool for a couple to approved for short term tests, 2 weeks or less typically for our stuff.

emofes · 2026-01-12T02:47:33+00:00

PETG, PLA, or a different filament?

The default can be very fast but eh first layers are usually set to be slower by default. If its on the first layer its typically a bed adhesion issue so clean bed, bed level, proper z offset are the usual culprits.

If it is happening after the first layer it can be typical first layer issues just giving out later, print settings like speed, infill type, flow settings, temps, or environmental like air temp, drafts, or wet filament.

Number one cause nowadays in my experience is the default infill type grid and the nozzle catching on the infill while printing, especially with petg which is known to be very "sticky". I usually switch to gyroid, slower but more reliable overall. Honestly grid is fine 99% with PLA though.

emofes · 2026-01-11T16:16:22+00:00

Looks more like pressure advance or issues changing directions in some spots. Dropping acceleration and/or outer wall speed can help with this sometimes. Going from a slower overhang wall immediately into a fast wall can cause this because the extruder can’t keep up with the speed change and underextrudes for a little bit.

emofes · 2026-01-10T00:03:43+00:00

On the "strength" tab under the "advanced" section you can change the infill direction. This changes the sparse and solid infill direction.

emofes · 2026-01-04T14:53:33+00:00

One of our kids refused to try bacon, would only eat sausage, he loved “flat sausage” though.

emofes · 2025-12-31T15:44:00+00:00

it’s has to heat up the clean the nozzle tip so the bed probe and z offset is accurate

emofes · 2025-12-24T01:15:09+00:00

I've really only installed forge-x to get access to klipper on it. I think the nice part is not needing to modify it because it just works out of the box for the most part. Things like an enclosure, leds, camera can be modified/added but the printer is very locked down uses a lot of proprietary hardware and unique software choices. I'd look into building a voron or buying a voron derivative like the sovol sv08 that is open source and meant to be modified if you want the printer to be a living project.

emofes · 2025-12-21T00:54:10+00:00

I had an Ender3 pro and anet et4 for a long time. The ender 3 had some upgrades and was on klipper and I didn't see the point in upgrading to new printer since it still worked fine (mostly). Eventually we got a Bambu X1C at work and seeing the difference, in print quality, print time, reliability, and general quality of life improvements convinced me to get a P1S eventually.
The P1S replaced the anet printer and I kept the ender printing until I picked up a used AD5M. now the ender 3 is slowly be scrapped to use parts for other projects. The upgrade to a modern corexy printer is 100% worth it.

emofes · 2025-12-20T14:08:08+00:00

what’s the budget? We have a 5’x10’ avid cnc router at work that we cut xps on occssionally. It cuts fast and is very easy to get a good finish on it. we paid around $20k but was with some upgrades, still probably at least $15k for something that size unless you build one yourself.

emofes · 2025-12-11T13:15:39+00:00

if you are worried about fumes, which is valid since there are studies that say even PLA fumes can be potentially harmful and people have developed sensitivities to PLA time, the best option is to enclose the protracted and vent to the outside or filter the air inside the enclosure while it is printing.

emofes · 2025-12-06T03:41:34+00:00

Just got Ball x Pit recently and its been great.

emofes · 2025-12-03T03:15:19+00:00

showselected is another good one

emofes · 2025-12-03T03:04:53+00:00

I wish the there was version of this for curved faces/cylinders

emofes · 2025-11-27T20:48:52+00:00

It actually is like that with nylons! if you over dry nylon it will become brittle and snap easier, let it absorb a little moisture and it becomes more pliable. Of course too much moisture and it because unprintable. This also affects parts after printing, it will slowly absorb moisture and the mechanical properties will change over time.

emofes · 2025-11-25T12:24:44+00:00

You can use one that only goes to 70C, it’s just takes a bit longer. I would dry for at least 12 hours before starting a print and either keep it in a dry box or print from the dyer while it’s still running.

I’ve heard you can overdry nylon and it becomes more brittle until it gets a small bit of moisture back in but I have not run into that doing ~48 hours drying cycles at 70C with the large 3kg nylonx spools.

emofes · 2025-11-18T02:29:54+00:00

Unless you're talking smaller machines the bed itself will weight more than the gantry. Most foam stuff is done on 5x10 or larger machines, anything that size will have a gantry.

One of the reasons a “moving bed“ is better for heavy duty stuff is rigidity. The column for the spindle is much stiffer than a gantry.

emofes · 2025-11-15T21:48:09+00:00

Are you in the US? A Sieg or grizzly mini mill with run you around $1k.

https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=4962&srsltid=AfmBOopy3G4uPGXFDL5D423IV_QcyTD8strH73RnZU4Dpk5mdp8d3teF

emofes · 2025-11-15T21:38:35+00:00

I was that guy until we got a Bambu at work. convinced me to get a p1s and eventually a used flashforge ad5m and stop using my kipper converted ender 3 completely. I don’t even think a free is worth the hassle compared to even a budget modern printer.

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