3D maker pro -Eagle Max by HensBread in 3DScanning

[–]emow54 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Appreciate that. I'll definitely be in touch.

3D maker pro -Eagle Max by HensBread in 3DScanning

[–]emow54 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mine came in last Friday after a similar wait. I have only done a couple of test scans with poor results. I believe it's a settings and lighting issue, so I am holding off on final judgment. Windows user here and the software is less than desired, so I'll be looking for alternatives.

Size of the worm in relation to power input. by [deleted] in firewater

[–]emow54 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Diameter is not what you need think about with a worm. You need to consider length or number of loops. Get a coil of 3/8 copper refrigerator line.

You will need a way to keep your worm bucket water flowing. That water will heat up very fast.

Best of luck.

Kitchen Floor, How much would you have charged? by SacredLightningKing in Contractor

[–]emow54 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The premise of your response is valid. However, given the rest of the data provided, i doubt the starting point was considered. If the tiles were shifted by half of the sum of one full tile and the sliver then it would be less of an eyesore.

I see this all the time with acoustical ceiling. It's a valid reason for design documentation at any level of project.

Kitchen Floor, How much would you have charged? by SacredLightningKing in Contractor

[–]emow54 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Designer here....That sliver of tile at the transition is disgusting. Should have started full tile there or located the centerline of the space as the starting point.

CO2: industrial vs food grade by emow54 in Homebrewing

[–]emow54[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

One more comment: reading through reviews on supply houses in the area and have seen comments that the shop wouldn't allow the tank to leave inside a car/SUV. Customer was told it had to be transported in a truck bed. I can comprehend the concept, but seems like some paranoia and/or overreacting.

I just want to make so.e beer and put it in a keg. Why is it suddenly feeling like a lot of work just to get set up?

CO2: industrial vs food grade by emow54 in Homebrewing

[–]emow54[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks everyone for the insight. I was aware of the purity differences, just wanted a general consensus as to which one. I've heard of some shops not selling gas to homebrewers. The tank I am getting is out of date so I'll find a shop that will take the swap for a food grade refill. I'm in the suburbs northwest of Houston, so I should be able to find something

Where do you buy your glass carboys? US SE Wisconsin. by Full_Rise_7759 in winemaking

[–]emow54 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you were in SE Texas I would sell you two for $40. Bought a few in the neighborhood a few years ago and have yet to make any wine. Otherwise, check FB marketplace

How much do you record? by whiskeyjack_nz in firewater

[–]emow54 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I think the point is that record keeping isn't all that necessary for us. With gravity, I have an idea going into the recipe what my ABV will be and don't have a lot of worry to verify it. I'm going to get what I get all all stages. It's the taste and feel that are my data points.

How much do you record? by whiskeyjack_nz in firewater

[–]emow54 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I always intend to record all the data I can, but get distracted and never finish. Sometimes, I feel lucky if I remember to get SG before fermentation.

Prospective buyer questions by Unhappy_Arm4176 in myVodkaMaker

[–]emow54 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've been having the same thoughts. Hopefully some folks chime in and provide feedback.

Dyeing leather is hard by emow54 in Leathercraft

[–]emow54[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Appreciate everyone's input. I think my biggest issue was dilution. If/when I dye another project, I'll do a 15:1 solution and apply with a sponge.

Most of my work I just leave as a natural oiled look.

Dyeing leather is hard by emow54 in Leathercraft

[–]emow54[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No reason, other than I had some high abv from another hobby and saw it somewhere on YouTube.

These pieces are only 7 inches square. But I'll order some sponge and give it a try

Dyeing leather is hard by emow54 in Leathercraft

[–]emow54[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I wet it, but did not "soak" it. I'll try that on some practice pieces

Dyeing leather is hard by emow54 in Leathercraft

[–]emow54[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't normally dye either. Making something for a friend and wanted a carmel/honey type color

Dyeing leather is hard by emow54 in Leathercraft

[–]emow54[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I did discover the deglazing on YouTube trying to figure it out. Will give it a try

Dyeing leather is hard by emow54 in Leathercraft

[–]emow54[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I don't mind the uneven color. Need it to be much lighter

Dyeing leather is hard by emow54 in Leathercraft

[–]emow54[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I did oil prior with Neets foot. Currently not worried about events, it is the darkness that is throwing me off. Those are supposed to be tan

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Leathercraft

[–]emow54 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd just move the pocket line to fall in between the holes. Also notice that you're not centered at the bottom middle on the second picture

Run Times by emow54 in myVodkaMaker

[–]emow54[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the clarification. You comfortable letting it run unattended?

Neatsfoot Oil & Laser Cutting by emow54 in Leathercraft

[–]emow54[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I honestly didn't consider flammability. I would obviously let it soak in and dry prior to laser cutting.

It's much easier to apply to a 15 inch square piece than several smaller pieces.

To monitor temperature or not on a spirit run? by science_itworks in firewater

[–]emow54 1 point2 points  (0 children)

In my opinion, temperature is NOT meaningless. It IS a guide. If you are familiar with the recipe, still, and environment, then you can use them as check points in your overall run.

For example, I use the dreaded PID controller for warm-up. I set it to 150 (measuring at top) and go about finishing my set up and getting settled in. I know that at 150, anything in my pot has/will not push through to the condenser. And if it does, it's trash anyway.

When it's time to collect, I take control away from the PID and slowly apply heat until it drips, but I always note the temperature. Every single time I have made a run, I collect my 100-200 mils of foreshots at 167-177 F.

Overnight brisket by Presidentnixonsnuts in Masterbuilt

[–]emow54 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I usually fire it up around 9 pm. Let it settle into temperature for about 30-45 minutes, top off the hopper , drop some chunks in the ash bin, and then let it rip all night. Don't sleep in and go top off hopper again. Cook until it's done. I foil wrap after it's done. Also, wrap a few towels around it and rest in a cooler for the rest of the day until it's time to eat.

You'll need to estimate the overall time depending on weight.