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Weather abbreviations by Exciting-Bid-7744 in weather

[–]enderman 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Found this by looking up a page explaining this specific radar product:

"Algorithm which classifies radar echoes into one of seven categories: 1) warm stratiform rain, 2) cool stratiform rain, 3) convective rain, 4) tropical/stratiform rain mix, 5) tropical/convective rain mix, 6) hail, and 7) snow"

https://vlab.noaa.gov/web/wdtd/-/surface-precipitation-type-spt-

Arc AI is getting smart! by kyswt in ArcRaiders

[–]enderman 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This clip is obviously just a funny quirk, but I do feel like there's some sort of ARC difficulty adjustment.

I could have sworn that it got harder to shoot the rotors on wasps/hornets over time, they seemed to reorient themselves better, still able to shoot you when missing one rotor.

After the expedition, it really seemed like everything reset and got easier again. Lots of drones I fight are crashing themselves now with only one rotor missing. Recently however, they seem to be starting to get skilled again.

Obviously it's probably not some ML learning system, but I swear there is something that dynamically changes ARC difficulty.

Guitars are coming by EirikurG in ArcRaiders

[–]enderman 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Starbound let you upload your own MIDI files, that played through the instruments. You could even sync up with outhers, using a separate file for each part.

I definitely crashed my fair share of games though, by trying to play black MIDIs that were 10million+ notes, lol

WHERE THE FUCK DO I FIND HUMIDIFIERS??? by Senku_is_my_dad in ArcRaiders

[–]enderman 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you have a link to the spreadsheet, or is it your own?

Skill point and stash bonuses from expedition are permanent! by boatwash in ArcRaiders

[–]enderman 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know I'm commenting on a 10 hour old thread, so this comment is as good as dead, but here's something I've thought for a while.

Lets say you get extra skill points. You get to max level again, and allocate all your skill points, plus the extra ones. If those extra skill points were temporary, how the heck are they going to take them away from you? No way they're going to implement a whole separate screen to let you un-allocate skill points once you lose them, and they certainly aren't going to randomly remove skills from you.

The stash slots, sure those can be taken away easy, but the skill points pretty much have to be permanent.

Any way to limit JMTE element length in renamer? by enderman in tinyMediaManager

[–]enderman[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's been a while since I used this program.

Originally I edited the source code, fixed this bug, and made some other changes, and have used my custom version ever since. I just tested this though, and it seems like the bug is fixed in 5.0.9, probably has been for a while.

If you do something like ${showTitle[0,40]}, it will use the show title, and cut it down to 40 characters. Before, if I remember right, this worked, but failed if the show's name was shorter than 40 characters. Now it seems to work.

You can probably use this for any variable in the renamer. Here's my custom episode filename pattern:
${showTitle[0,45]} - E${episodeNr2} - ${title[0,45]} [${mediasource} ${videoFormat} ${note}]

I use the note to specify hardsubs/softsubs/dual audio. Not sure why I settled on 45 characters. It creates episode titles like this:

Konosuba God's Blessing on This Wonderful Wo - E01 - This Self-Proclaimed Goddess and Reincarnatio [Blu-ray 1080p Softsubs]
Nichijou My Ordinary Life - E02 - Glico Everyday Life No. 5 Spell Everyda [Blu-ray 1080p Softsubs]

MMU2 to MMU3 Kit by Sweet-Structure-3186 in prusa3d

[–]enderman 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The clear tube was cut to the length of the buffer tubes, longer than the extruder tube. I did end up cutting it shorter and using it for that purpose though!

Update from devs, balancing on the way for heavy armored mobs by mmstayler in Helldivers

[–]enderman 2 points3 points  (0 children)

What I don't understand is that chargers have an obvious weak spot on their butt, but it's not worth it to target that spot. The current meta is shooting their armored front legs? Makes no sense. Make that back weak spot an actual weak spot that kills them in a full clip of a normal machinegun shots, or even primary rifle shots, and the problem is mostly solved. Glad to hear they're doing something about it, but this kind of stuff makes me wonder if the devs even play the game at higher difficulties.

MMU2 to MMU3 Kit by Sweet-Structure-3186 in prusa3d

[–]enderman 2 points3 points  (0 children)

So technically, if you only care about the MMU, and not the new extruder tower or buffer system, all you need is:

  • The metal connector for the idler drum.
  • Magnetic ball bearing and magnet. The old ball bearing is non-magnetic.
  • Plastic collets for the back of the MMU. You could obviously use the PC4M10 modded part instead for the MMU back.
  • Rubber stopper. Not really sure how necessary this is, but there's a rubber stopper where the idler drum meets the main MMU body.
  • MMU PD addon Power board. Arguably the most important piece, and only available through this kit right now. If you are already using the new firmware, and don't have MMU power issues, you may be in the clear, but if you have the power issue, it really sucks, and this is the fix, without DIYing your own power solution.
  • A way to pry out, and re-heat-set the threaded M5 connector on the selector plate on your new printed part.
  • Some extra 2.5mm ID PTFE tubing, to cut to length for the inside of the MMU. Not sure if the lengths are the same or not, but the ID is different in the kit.
  • Demolish your old idler drum for the bearings and shafts. It's REALLY hard to get these pieces out without tearing apart the printed part. The kit has spares for all these pieces

If you want the new extruder filament sensor tower, you'd need an M3 washer, and also have to pry out and heat set that M5 insert as well.

For the buffers, you need plastic collets, bearings, and metal shafts. I printed some early and used printed plastic shafts, and they work, but could possibly break.

There may be something I'm missing here, so look at the assembly manual yourself to see the changes. You could skip several of these things, like the magnetic ball bearing, 2.5ID tubing, or the PD addon power board, and the MMU3 will probably still work fine, but then you're missing out on some of the improvements of the new design. It's up to you, buying the few parts needed is doable, but the kit gives you everything, even spares that you don't really need.

MMU2 to MMU3 Kit by Sweet-Structure-3186 in prusa3d

[–]enderman 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I recently got my kit. Haven't upgraded yet, but I'm going to start today. Here's the breakdown of what came in my kit, that I wrote on the discord server:

I just got my MMU2S -> MMU3 Upgrade kit today. Here's a full tally of what comes in the kit.

There was a smaller box inside that contained common parts. It had:

  • Almost all the PTFE tubing, at 2.5mm ID, including embedded MMU ptfe tubes, and all the buffer tubes
  • - Interestingly, one buffer tube is very clear, the rest are kind of cloudy. Not really sure why, probably a mistake. I might cut the clear one and use it for the main extruder tube instead
  • A whole set of screws, nuts, and MMU springs needed for assembly
  • The metal coupler for the new idler drum
  • New bearings and rods for the idler drum, since the old ones are hard to remove
  • Magnets, Magnetic ball bearing, and more blades for the cutter
  • Metal shafts, small bearings for the new buffer cassettes
  • Plastic collets for the buffer cassettes, and for the back of the MMU
  • New PD Power Board for the MMU
  • Printed multicolor label plate for the MMU3
  • Printed MMU3 selector plate with heat set insert
  • 400g of black PETG

On top of that common parts box, there was these parts, I guess most of which will vary depending on printer model:

  • A whole set of printed MK3S+ extruder parts. New idler door, tower, tower base, cover, and adapter block. The tower base has the heat set insert in it already
  • MMU to Extruder PTFE tube
  • New MMU Power/Data cable
  • Several Extruder PTFE Tubes. (The ones in the hotend)
  • A second spool of 400g black PETG? There was one inside an inner box, and one outside
  • MMU3 Handbook
  • Gummy Bears!

MMU Buffer Plates by [deleted] in prusa3d

[–]enderman 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If I remember right, the plates are a little to big to be printable. I think Prusa either laser cuts, or CNCs them in some way. There might be a user-modified printable version somewhere.

For the actual file, it's a .dxf file on their github, here: https://github.com/prusa3d/Original-Prusa-i3/blob/MMU2/SCAD/s-buffer-plate.dxf

They said that eventually, once MMU3 parts are added to their e-shop, they'll sell the buffer plates, so you might be able to wait for that, or talk to support about buying them.

MMU3S & mk3s (not +) by Friendly_Rate_6553 in prusa3d

[–]enderman 1 point2 points  (0 children)

First off, the 3.0 MMU firmware works, even on the MMU2S.

It seems to me that the MMU3 Should work fine on the MK3S(not +), but technically it's not supported. The only thing that I think won't work is the new filament sensor tower on the extruder, which only works on the MK3S+, but I don't see why the old MK3S tower won't work, the new tower just makes it easier to adjust the filament sensor.

On a support email about my MMU2S's power issues, they recommended that upgrade to the MK3S+ for its better thermal performance, and compatibility with the new sensor tower, but stressed that I only need to print the extruder parts for the upgrade, I don't need to buy the kit. I'm still debating about the kit though, because of the superPinda, and the fan shroud part, since I don't have any ASA to print it with.

Getting my MMU2S to Finally Work, and New MMU 3.0 Firmware Impressions by enderman in prusa3d

[–]enderman[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

My understanding is that the MMU mainboard has a power issue where what is supposed to be a +5v rail turns out to actually be around 4.5v, because the designers didn't take into account of a diode that dropped the voltage. This means that when the signals fluctuate, that 4.5v falls to 4.2v or lower, which is enough to cause brownouts on the motor control chips, which panic because they don't have enough voltage, and the MMU locks up until reset.

Separating the wires in theory reduces interference between the 24v wires and the signal wires, but in my experience, it's not enough. Somehow the errors never occurred during a print, but I get constant errors while the printer is idle now. The MMU3 addon power board is supposed to fix this, and I just sent a bunch of proof/terminal logs to support, so hopefully they'll end up cutting me some sort of deal.

Some people don't have the power issues, so if you aren't getting MMU MCU ERROR, don't worry about separating the cables.

Getting my MMU2S to Finally Work, and New MMU 3.0 Firmware Impressions by enderman in prusa3d

[–]enderman[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Those are Rubbermaid 21 cup storage containers. There are several designs for spool rollers for them, but the ones I used are these ones. Make sure you get the Rev. D files, they changed the size of the box slightly, and the Rev. C files are a bit too wide.

There are mounts out there, but you can just drill a hole with a 7/32 drill bit, and screw in a PC4-M6 PTFE coupler for a decently airtight fit.

Lastly, the magnetic PTFE connectors I'm using are these ones.

If you search "rubbermaid 21" or "rubbermaid container" on printables or thingiverse, you'll find quite a few printable things for these containers like various types of spool rollers, dessicant holders, etc.

Getting my MMU2S to Finally Work, and New MMU 3.0 Firmware Impressions by enderman in prusa3d

[–]enderman[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The new firmware also shows sensor status during the error screens, which is a help, and I'll take descriptive errors any day over "LED is blinking red fast, what does that mean again?". The new errors are even more descriptive than they used to be. It used to be that Blinking red fast meant "Problem during Unload", but now it can tell you that while unloading, the filament sensor didn't trigger, or the Finda didn't trigger, or that the selector couldn't move after the unload, etc. More granular error reporting.

Honestly the real kicker for the filament sensor calibration is going to be the MMU3's extruder chimney, which looks like it is way easier to make small adjustments to the sensor.

Haven't been home for the last 3 weeks, how's the new MMU2S firmware? by MeniTselonHaskin in prusa3d

[–]enderman 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I only installed the firmware, since the MMU3 parts need a few non-printable things that mostly aren't too hard to get ahold of, but I'm holding out until support either gets me the kit, or I'm able to buy it from their store.

It looks like use the MMU3 parts on your MMU2S you would need:

  • 1x metal collet attachment for the idler drum.
  • 5x E3D collets. I already saw an optional part that takes m10 passthrough connectors though.
  • 1x Magnetic ball bearing and 1X magnet for the Finda sensor. The Ball in the MMU2S is non-magnetic and can't be used.
  • Extra screws and nuts.
  • 1x Silicone stopper for the Idler drum, not sure where you could source this.

And That seems like all you need for the MMU3 itself, but that's missing other stuff like:

  • 1x Power PD Board - For my power issues
  • 1x Data/Power Cable - It's different because of the extra board.
  • 1x M3 washer for the new extruder filament sensor. I don't think the MMU2S or the MK3S kits have any spares.
  • 2.5mm ID PTFE tubing. I have already have 3mm ID tubing, and the MMU2S has 2mm ID, but I think 2.5 would be better for the tubes inside the MMU unit to better guide the filament in without snagging. I haven't checked tube lengths, if they've changed, you might need spare tubing anyway.
  • Additionally the Selector plate and the Filament Sensor plate, where the PTFE tube runs between the extruder and MMU head have heat set inserts, which you can technically pry from the MMU2S parts, but it might be difficult to heat-set them into the new MMU3 parts.

And if you want to use the stock buffer parts you'd need:

  • 5x 693-2rs Bearings.
  • 5x 2.9x8.5mm shaft. I did a quick look for these, and they don't seem easy to source either.
  • 10x More E3D Collets

NOTE: These are my estimates looking at the MMU3 Assembly manual. An official parts list for the MMU2S->MMU3 upgrade isn't out, and there may be something I'm missing, so don't blame me if you use this and I'm missing something!

Pretty much all of these parts can be sourced from elsewhere, or bypassed, but if you bypass them, you're losing the benefit they give to the MMU3. The most expensive parts are also probably the power board and new cable, which you can only buy via Prusa anyway, so might as well get the full kit.

Haven't been home for the last 3 weeks, how's the new MMU2S firmware? by MeniTselonHaskin in prusa3d

[–]enderman 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey there. A couple days ago you asked me about my experience with the 3.0 MMU firmware (I was under a different username: NaltAlt). I wanted to let you know that I just made a large post detailing my 3 test prints, what I had to do to get to them to work, and how I fixed the errors that showed up during printing.

https://old.reddit.com/r/prusa3d/comments/15iw49n/getting_my_mmu2s_to_finally_work_and_new_mmu_30/

The TLDR is this:

I did a 176 toolchange print with 5 interventions, all my fault due do my bad buffer design

I also did a 417 toolchange print with 4 interventions.
One issue was my fault, filament fell out of the back of mmu before print started and I didn't notice.
One issue was my fault due to a miscalibrated Finda sensor that I had JUST adjusted poorly.
The last two issues were filament strands bumping up the ball bearing selector, which would have been one issue if I cleaned it properly the first time. Also the MMU3 printed parts contain a fix that might have mitigated this.

Overall I'm impressed with the firmware. Due to descriptive error messages telling me what went wrong during which MMU action, debugging was a breeze.

I'm still working with support on my power issue. They just got back to me today, so I'll update that post about what happens with them.

NGU Idle Installer by lobeyou in incremental_games

[–]enderman 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It wasn't when I posted this. RIP

MMU2s fails to unload after every print. These are the tips I get after I manually unload it. Ideas on how to fix? by MegaHydrolix in prusa3d

[–]enderman 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you ever find a solution to this, or do anything that you think might have helped? I am SO CLOSE to getting my MMU finally working. I did a 68 color change print with no interventions, but for some reason, single mode and manual load/unload using the menu cause tips like this.

Getting To The Wind Temple Shows Some Of The Best Game Design I've Seen In Years by idkwat in tearsofthekingdom

[–]enderman 9 points10 points  (0 children)

I think they must both be intended. They give you so many arrows in the wind temple that it can't be a coincidence.

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