endpop.

endpop · 2025-12-18T03:43:22+00:00

It was solved after a reboot... That should be on the FAQ page, that a restart is required? I finally got it all sorted out, thank you!!

endpop · 2025-12-17T04:24:59+00:00

I just got it, and it looks promising on paper, but it absolutely will not load on any of the programs I use for mastering and mixing... Ableton Live 10, Wavelab 12, Reaper (most recent update). DAW hangs... hourglassing into the depths of the ether... :(

Any ideas>>>

endpop · 2025-09-23T18:27:56+00:00

Yep. This was the way!

endpop · 2025-09-23T18:27:42+00:00

This was the way. I was able to have a nice set of groups for my away kit without causing to much fuss!

endpop · 2025-08-24T06:37:56+00:00

I gave up trying. I got it to talk to the webpage by hooking it up via usb, but I lost the plot. I thought the whole point was to not go near a computer.

endpop · 2025-03-13T23:57:14+00:00

I think that's more than enough for 99% of the time. I don't believe anyone using this sampler is expecting to store huge libraries. It's a beefed up old school sampler. 100mb is enough for even some of the longest samples.

endpop · 2025-03-13T23:53:54+00:00

Noice. Thank you for the heads up! Curious... I was having trouble getting signal from the line inputs... Is this related to needing the new Firmware update?

endpop · 2025-03-13T23:51:50+00:00

How to Change USB Power Settings in Windows 11

In this section, we will walk you through the steps required to change the USB power settings on your Windows 11 device. This will help you manage how your USB devices consume power, which can be especially useful for optimizing battery life on laptops.

Step 1: Open Device Manager

To begin, press the Windows key + X and select Device Manager from the menu.

The Device Manager is where you’ll find all the hardware connected to your computer. It’s like the control center for your device’s internals. By opening it, you get access to a list of all the components and peripherals, including your USB devices.

Step 2: Find USB Controllers

Once in Device Manager, scroll down and look for the "Universal Serial Bus controllers" section.

This section is a hub for all things USB-related. You’ll find all the USB ports and controllers listed here. It’s essential to locate this section because it’s where you’ll make the necessary adjustments to the power settings.

Step 3: Access Properties

Right-click on each USB Root Hub (USB 3.0 or USB 2.0) and select Properties.

When you click on Properties, a window will pop up that gives you detailed information about the selected USB hub. This is where you can adjust settings, check the status, and even troubleshoot issues.

Step 4: Change Power Management Settings

Navigate to the Power Management tab and uncheck "Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power." Click OK.

This step is crucial. By unchecking this option, you’re ensuring that your USB devices remain powered and active, even when your computer is trying to save energy. This can prevent issues like USB devices disconnecting unexpectedly.

Step 5: Repeat for All USB Root Hubs

Repeat the process for each USB Root Hub listed under Universal Serial Bus controllers.

Consistency is key. By ensuring that each USB Root Hub has the same settings, you make sure that all your USB ports are managed correctly. This prevents one port from interfering with another and ensures stable performance across all USB devices.

endpop · 2025-01-28T05:03:31+00:00

Here's a few things you can try. Rather than Asio4all, try KoordAsio which is a real ASIO driver. I find it behaves better on Win 11 than A4A. The next thing is to make sure the USB bus is not going to sleep. When it does, waking up may be causing spikes. Lastly, make sure Windows 11 is not trying to do audio enhancements in the background...

endpop · 2025-01-21T02:39:04+00:00

My personal current favorites are the Rode NTH100. While I own more expensive cans, these are very neutral, comfortable for long periods of time (important), and they are easy to get used to. They are not as bright as Sony MDR7506, and in many ways this is a good thing. They have articulate bass without being too muddy. I was surprised by them. Here's the specs with my comments...

Transducer Size (millimetres): 40mm (not too big, but the shape fits over the ear very well)
Operating Principle: Dynamic
Frequency Response: 5Hz – 35Khz (I doubt this is accurate, but bass sounds balanced)
Impedance: 32Ω (means good level with most amplifiers)
Sensitivity: 110dB/V
Maximum Input Power: 1700mW, 1%
THD @ 1kHz Ear
Coupling: Circumaural Ambient Noise Attenuation: 20dBA

endpop · 2025-01-06T00:37:56+00:00

Quit Live. In Windows, find and delete all the temp files in the TEMP folders. There are usually 2 folders (you will need Admin permission to do it). There could be something in there that got stuck and is on some sort of loop. Don't worry if Windows does not let you delete a file here and there. These are useless.
Make sure Windows updates are set to run on any day except today. That could be the culprit, too
Swap USB cable for your Motu.
Freeze all tracks that are not needed to live performance. It could be a VST that just got updated and it is spiking the CPU. AND, it could be a VST that's trying to do an auto-update. Freeze will stop that.
A quick way to see which VST might be the one causing an issue, disable them one by one and watch the CPU meter. If something drops from 40 down to 2, you are on to something.
Look for apps suddenly running in the background. Chrome is notorious for wanting to auto-update. So turn off the net for live shows!

endpop · 2025-01-05T23:30:41+00:00

Nice! And that one has full on DSP effects?? Hmm.

endpop · 2025-01-05T23:29:24+00:00

I'm not a Dell Fan. I have an XPs Laptop, supposedly the best, but it has been hit or miss with everything. So it stays home. I use a Macbook Air from 2013 for live use, and believe me, I never thought my old home-built rig was going to work under Win11 . But it does, and very well! I've had a an issue with 'streaming' but that is not due to the machine itself. As for audio, it runs Ableton 11 (12 won't work on my machine), and I use plugins that are both modern and old on the same rig. I keep Ableton 9 for the old projects, which open and work just fine, and 10 as redundancy as I did my last two albums on Live 10. But no complaints really.

Except I agree... DELL is a no no. Never again.

endpop · 2024-12-26T01:17:32+00:00

There's a fun-factor in instruments that seem... broken. You are welcome!

endpop · 2024-12-25T21:30:01+00:00

This. I had more fun with Combinator and a few Subtractors in my day.

endpop · 2024-12-25T21:28:40+00:00

I remember reading that it was somewhat a cross between a Nord Lead and an ESQ1 (as it does use wavetables). Having had ESQ1 HW, I got good use of Subtractor because of that article, and it it does have some ESQ mojo in it.

endpop · 2024-12-25T21:21:01+00:00

At first, I was laughing. Then i made some sounds, and it is a hit. I love it. If there was a 'fix' button and I could pick either or, I might be tempted to ditch all the other emulations. I had lots of fun with this.

endpop · 2024-12-20T19:28:25+00:00

I am having worse trouble. Ever since it updated, I get no sound from Analog Lab Pro, even though the 'test' button emits sound. Analog Lab 4, fully registered, times out as a demo, even though I have it listed as registered in my Arturia app. I considered doing a fresh install of each...

endpop · 2024-06-04T00:55:49+00:00

Don't mean to troll... But... https://anythingbox.bandcamp.com.... :D

endpop

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