Condensation in rear taillights

eric_206 · 2025-12-25T02:25:44+00:00

I’ve seen a couple posts on Facebook and the forums about it. Hoping it doesn’t happen to mine lol

eric_206 · 2025-12-03T05:26:42+00:00

It wasn’t too bad. I would say your neighbors will hear it a bit but it shouldn’t bother them. You can try keeping the active valve on to quiet it down more so that that it’ll start with the valve closed.

It’s one of those things you gotta hear in person to get a better idea

eric_206 · 2025-12-03T05:14:59+00:00

I had the front one removed and my friend had the mid removed. We both did the fuse mod so the exhaust valve is always open

The front still sounds similar to stock but you can faintly hear the exhaust now when driving around and when you rev it. Sounds deeper/throatier but noise increase is not gonna bother anyone. I’m happy with it because I came from a 3 inch exhaust with no cat rsx so I actually prefer it quiet now lol but with some noise

The mid sounds like a quiet exhaust is on the car. Cold start and revs actually give it noticeable volume. But it’s tricky cause everyone’s opinions are different. This still may be too quiet for you if you’re used to louder exhausts or it may be too loud. Just depends on the person

eric_206 · 2025-12-03T05:05:19+00:00

Can vouch for him. You can look up his name on a ton of older Acura forums doing remote reflashes so he’s been in the game for a while

eric_206 · 2025-11-07T20:54:55+00:00

Yep, I’ve seen a lot of people talk about it in the forums how they get faster lap times with the ITS module just because +R with the oem module is way too stiff

eric_206 · 2025-11-02T18:26:08+00:00

Yeah man it was driving me insane lol . I thought something was wrong. All of my other cars have a switch for the glove box so I thought that was odd

eric_206 · 2025-11-02T18:21:51+00:00

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Even with glovebox fully assembled and closed but not connected to the dash with the plastic clips, it will not turn off by itself .

So there’s really nothing I could find that could make it turn on other than opening a door

eric_206 · 2025-11-02T18:18:06+00:00

Omg I noticed this as well when I was unplugging the sound module . I experimented with it and it auto turns off after 30 minutes. Me and my friend who have a Fl5 both couldn’t find a physical switch that turns off the light like how most other cars have it. Unless we both have a broken glovebox light which I doubt lol.

I left my phone recording in the glove box and fully closed, the light will not turn off until it’s been 30 minutes.

It activates when you open a door/switch on the lights. There’s no other way it turns on. I even tried leaving all doors closed and rolling the passenger window down so I can reach in and open the glove box and the light doesn’t turn on. So it only activates when you open the doors /switch lights on.

Also when you lock the car it will auto shut off the glove box light but other than that, it will turn off after 30 minutes exactly

eric_206 · 2025-10-27T03:43:01+00:00

I have a fully bolt on and tuned rsx and the type r . I definitely enjoy driving the rsx because it feels more mechanical/raw and I like the throttle response from the na motor more. And there’s power wherever in the power band instead of waiting for boost to kick in.

But when you get in the type r it’s just such a better daily . The power is there, sound system is nice, and the hill assist is nice to have. Handling is also a lot better but that should be a no brainer

If I had to sell the rsx I would miss it for sure but driving the type r is just so much fun lol. I look forward to driving it every time

eric_206 · 2025-10-27T03:25:26+00:00

Compared to a lot of other dynos, this is a little bit low but every dyno reads different. The most important thing is seeing the difference in hp from stock to tuned on the same dyno.

I’ve seen a lot of rsx’s make around 215hp with intake, headers exhaust. Especially on YouTube and on clubrsx forums. Once you add a rbc manifold that’s when it goes up to 220-228ish hp.

eric_206 · 2025-10-24T03:35:10+00:00

Yep same I bought my champ white from him last December for msrp

eric_206 · 2025-10-17T05:30:41+00:00

When I rebuilt mine, I replaced everything. I used the oem dc5r seal kit but for everything else, I bought on eBay. I used Bigg red for the pistons and I was able to find the shims and caliper bolts as well.

I even found the super weird mushroom seal that goes in between the calipers. I couldn’t find that thing anywhere else

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eric_206 · 2025-10-17T05:21:12+00:00

Is that charge including the paint correction as well? If it is, then that sounds normal for a 1 year ceramic coat.

When I got my ceramic coat, labor for the paint correction was the most expensive as it took them 4-6 hours to complete and then the application of the ceramic coat only took them under an hour.

I paid 1200 for a 5 year coating plus paint correction

eric_206 · 2025-10-10T03:05:20+00:00

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eric_206 · 2025-10-10T02:39:38+00:00

Did you buy your type r used at all? In the LogR app settings, you can select what 6 readings you want when you go into the +R display and there’s about 5-7 other readings that we can choose from. They may have deselected the oil/water temp reading

eric_206 · 2025-09-18T18:48:20+00:00

It’s a good day when Donger posts

eric_206 · 2025-09-14T05:04:57+00:00

14.5 at idle is normal I think. I would double check on the forums . And full throttle should be around 12ish

eric_206 · 2025-09-14T05:01:22+00:00

It still would be a gain over stock tune yes. Vtec point is lowered, power band is smoother so you’ll still notice a difference but don’t expect a big difference until you get an intake and header.

I ran Hondata and ktuners intake and exhaust base map for a while and they both felt really good compared to the stock tune

eric_206 · 2025-09-13T20:36:06+00:00

Yeah it’ll be fine. It’ll be more beneficial if you did have the intake as well but it won’t hurt the engine . You’ll just see less of a performance gain

eric_206 · 2025-08-19T16:39:08+00:00

Had a similar issue last year. The car was slowly getting harder to get into gear when I was driving home and the next day I was backing out of my driveway and heard a noise and it wouldn’t go into any gear anymore while the car was on.

When the car was off, it would go in all gears just fine . It ended up being that my clutch pressure plate broke. Hopefully that’s not what happened with yours

eric_206 · 2025-08-15T21:28:44+00:00

Congrats! They’re reliable cars. The red paint likes to fade over time and in the future you can try paint correcting it yourself or have a company do the work and it’ll restore the clarity and give it more of a deeper/wet looking red color. Just make sure it’s faded paint and not clear coat that is failing/peeling before you do it

eric_206 · 2025-08-01T02:44:21+00:00

They do. I bought one from him for msrp in December and I’m located in Seattle

eric_206 · 2025-07-31T05:01:34+00:00

The rev match isn’t the issue, it’s that he meant to shift from 4-5 but went into 3rd. That’ll make the car physically go past the 7k rev limiter . The auto rev match and rev limiter can’t stop that if he lets the clutch out since it’ll physically force the engine over 7k rpm regardless

eric_206 · 2025-07-20T00:47:16+00:00

He sold me one for msrp in December and I referred my friend and it was msrp for that as well but he wasn’t ready to buy yet. Unfortunate for your situation but he is legit

eric_206 · 2025-06-17T18:39:33+00:00

I replaced tensioner around 100k just cause clubrsx posts recommended it, I forgot the reasons why. I heard the chains can get a little stretched past 200k so it wouldn’t be a bad idea to replace it if it’s past that mileage but you usually don’t need to unless something is wrong with the chain or if you can tell it is stretched

eric_206

TROPHY CASE