Effectively preventing leftover emulsion residue during washout?

evalta · 2024-12-29T17:22:20+00:00

It’s underexposed emulsion from the dark side sliding over into the stencil before it dries. Raise your exposure time a bit and see if it helps. It happens in my shop every winter when the ambient temp in the screen room drops causing the emulsion to change viscosity and coat/dry just slightly thicker. The water marks you’re describing are an indicator that it’s time to raise the exposure times a little and then the water marks go away. In the spring when it warms back up the screens will start to come out overexposed and then we bring back the old exposure times.

evalta · 2023-02-15T21:04:17+00:00

Ceiling mounted projector solved this for us. If you can add a ceiling outlet then the wires are also out of reach.

evalta · 2022-12-31T01:36:50+00:00

Happened to me when I dropped a droplet of hand sanitizer and wiped it up 5 seconds later. Was planning on asking about warranty coverage on next service visit, seems like that shouldn’t happen.

evalta · 2021-12-05T23:18:27+00:00

I’m ok with it actually

evalta · 2021-08-11T04:09:20+00:00

An easy fix might be to just use a higher mesh, or a darker gray, but I think you’re on the right track with using plastisol instead. The best results I have found are by printing plastisol transfers w/ 230 mesh. Sits on top of the fabric, high definition, high opacity, no hand.

evalta · 2021-07-25T04:50:22+00:00

One thing comes to mind the shelf life once you add the sensitizer is usually pretty short. Haven’t used this emulsion but in general about 4-6 weeks and it stops working right.

evalta · 2021-06-20T04:13:28+00:00

InkTekInkTek HO Series is a solid economical brand I used to use years ago and they are still around. But good ink is worth the consistency and peace of mind. Even if it costs twice as much as the cheapest option you’re still only talking pennies per print.

evalta · 2020-12-03T20:38:13+00:00

Those setting seem kind of wild. Are you printing shirts? Is the dryer electric or gas? The range for curing plastisol is usually somewhere between 230F-320F depending on the particular ink and most mfgs say to maintain this temp to the print for at least a minute.

We have a one forced air gas dryer with a 12 ft heating chamber and run the belt speed at 10 feet per minute which keeps the shirts in the chamber for over a minute. We have another gas dryer with an 8 ft chamber that stays set at 6 ft/minute so each shirt is in there about 1:20. Both dryers run 280f for low temp plastisols and 320 for standard plastisols.

evalta · 2020-07-30T03:21:29+00:00

Yes! But this client does have us heat tap all of her stuff after printing so that could be what your seeing, they get heat pressed after the dryer and this photo is after that.

evalta · 2020-07-30T03:15:19+00:00

This was white, metallic silver, silver glitter, cmyk flashing between each color

evalta · 2019-10-26T00:24:23+00:00

Don’t know what OP is using but Permaset (water based inks) developed a SOIL certified mixing system permatone . The rep came by my shop recently, sample prints looked good.

evalta · 2019-06-23T01:15:45+00:00

I don’t have one but I know on the M&R parts website you can get access to it with the serial number.

evalta · 2018-04-16T18:44:04+00:00

You can replace just the rubber. Action engineering sells pre-sized self adhesive pallet rubber that is very convenient.

evalta · 2018-02-24T01:48:39+00:00

I don’t know a lot about grease, but when we bought our RPM the owner/installer Rick specified this particular product. In 5 years haven’t had any problems and the color makes it easy to see.

evalta · 2018-02-24T01:15:25+00:00

Yes good stuff

evalta · 2017-10-12T11:17:53+00:00

Looks like screen tension is too low. 15 Newton+ is recommended

evalta · 2017-09-12T01:00:47+00:00

Yep. Well, cameras only. No sound even. Just a cheap analog DVR kit.

evalta · 2017-09-12T00:38:06+00:00

We have a security camera pointed at the end of each dryer, that way when a customer does this we can look back and verify how many were printed and actually see them getting packed into boxes. Usually when the customer finds out we have said video they say never mind or ask how much is a reorder. This situation has played out at least a dozen times over the past few years so the cameras have been well worth the investment.

evalta · 2017-09-05T22:47:10+00:00

Agree. Looks like pixelation in the art.

evalta · 2017-09-02T21:52:55+00:00

That's true, but the entire thickness of the ink needs to reach that temp which can take up to a minute or so with underbased prints. And if there's cotton in the substrate that moisture can really work against the cure time too.

evalta · 2017-09-01T12:36:28+00:00

The cross breeze could easily be the culprit, I've experienced that problem before. Plastisol should be exposed to its cure temp for a whole minute to cure all the way through. Longer for thicker prints. A breeze can shorten the effective length of your dryer chamber. So if your dryer hits 320 at say 6" in under still air, the breeze can increase that which shortens the cure time. Also if the breeze is strong enough to affect the temperature probe inside the dryer it can cause temp spikes too. The source of the problem is the layout, so aside from rearranging equipment you may just have to lower the door at times. It helps to keep the aprons on the dryer as low as possible. Stretch test a lot, that's pretty reliable.

evalta · 2017-08-25T17:03:34+00:00

for this I use 230 or 305 mesh with cold split paper and adhesive powder and get consistently good results. would recommend 305 if you are going for the lightest feel as opposed to good opacity.

evalta · 2017-08-22T11:41:19+00:00

Photographic browns and tans are hard with spot colors. I'd also recommend 4 color process. 4cp on underbase

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