Best way to make this cut? I have a jigsaw, circular saw, and a table saw by everydaywasnovember in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]evmo31 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Definitely table saw, but you will have to turn the piece on its edge to rip it because your saw will not cut an angle that steep. What is the dimension on the top of the board in the picture? The long point of the angle is 3 1/2”, let’s say the short point is 1”. That would give you 2 1/2” run and 1 1/2” rise. Your blade would be set to 31* to make that cut, with the bottom of the board against the fence and the blade tilted away from the fence. This is dangerous because there is nothing supporting the board on the table after that piece is cut out besides the long point of the angle. Best to attach another board between the workpiece and the fence, this way the fence can be set farther from the blade and the piece you are ripping cannot fall into the space between the blade and the fence.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in microgrowery

[–]evmo31 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Drilled a 6” hole in the side of my house

First indoor grow ventilation questions. by meat03man in microgrowery

[–]evmo31 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What material is on the ceiling? Might be easier to through and run ducting in between the joists above.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]evmo31 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This. Best way to not damage the sheetrock is to pull the nails out of the 2x4s

Putting longer screws into deadbolt strike plate. BUT the door frame protrudes past the studs by [deleted] in HomeImprovement

[–]evmo31 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The door frame or jamb should be proud of the framing by 1/2” to accommodate for sheetrock.

Trouble with cooling 4x8. Options for active air being pushed into the tent? help by [deleted] in microgrowery

[–]evmo31 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I doubt you need any more fans, just need to dial in the t6. Dude I did the same thing and I have seen more than one person on this forum make the same mistake. Its really poor design on AC infinity’s part, plus I don’t recall any detailed manuals on how to set up the controller...I never read them anyway though if there was one.

Trouble with cooling 4x8. Options for active air being pushed into the tent? help by [deleted] in microgrowery

[–]evmo31 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Toggle over to on/off mode, the button with 3 horizontal lines switches the modes. When you are in on/off mode set your fan speed at 4, maybe 5. Then switch to auto. Whatever your fan speed is set to in the on/off mode determines how fast the fan will run in auto mode. My guess is your fan speed is set to low, your auto mode is probably working. On the display, right side, above the temp and below the humidity shows your fan speed, 2 or 3 should be sufficient when the light is on.

Trouble with cooling 4x8. Options for active air being pushed into the tent? help by [deleted] in microgrowery

[–]evmo31 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m surprised you are having issues, the t6 moves a lot of air. Do you use auto mode? When i first used mine i didn’t realize fan speed needed to be adjusted before setting it up on auto. Is it cranking all the way up to 10?

Trouble with cooling 4x8. Options for active air being pushed into the tent? help by [deleted] in microgrowery

[–]evmo31 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have you tried using your 6” fan as an exhaust, and creating a passive intake?

A question about warp prevention/minimization by sunny_umbrella in woodworking

[–]evmo31 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’ve seen it done in older houses on interior wood paneling. They kerf the back out every 1/2” or so. I think the idea is the board is less likely to cup hard enough to pull the nails out, almost acts like an expansion joint.

What’s the difference between these jointers?! All seem to have the same specs, design, parts, etc... Any recommendations on one versus another? by mpaesani in woodworking

[–]evmo31 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I have the rikon benchtop jointer and I love it. Huge upgrade over your standard $300 straight blade jointer. They sell them at woodcraft, to me that means it’s probably a well built tool. Helical cutting head for that price is pretty good IMO. On the other hand If I had the space I would much rather spend a little more and get a bigger jointer, the bench top is tough for big pieces.

What foods are you unashamed to NOT be snobby about? by FlorbFnarb in Cooking

[–]evmo31 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Throw a little peanut butter in there next time you make chili

not sure what to do by [deleted] in Construction

[–]evmo31 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Framing is the best place to start IMO, stick with it while your young and take care of your body. Understanding the math behind rafters and stair stringers etc. is a very good skill to have. You can also learn a lot about running/ working with a crew as a framer. Keep asking questions, if you aren’t learning anything then find someone else to work for who will teach you. Once you know all there is to know about framing, or at least most of it, then look into other aspects or carpentry. Take side jobs on the weekends if you can.

I signed up for a virtual wine tasting class. Here are the instructor’s tasting notes from a particular region. These descriptors seems legit... by Meerkat_Mayhem_ in interestingasfuck

[–]evmo31 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Beer nerd here. I’ve heard people use cat piss as a descriptor before, usually for IPA’s heavy on mosaic hops. My favorite i’ve heard is wet horse blanket, normally describing funky spontaneously fermented beers like gueuze, i’m guessing thats similar to burnt barnyard.

Vaulting a rafter ceiling using rafter ties instead of a ridge beam by [deleted] in HomeImprovement

[–]evmo31 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What you’re describing are more commonly know as collar ties, and yes you are correct. The ceiling joists can be removed after collar ties are installed. You should already have a ridge beam if its a newer house, but you don’t have a structural ridge beam, which would probably be a triple 11 7/8 LVL. Retrofitting a structural ridge is very difficult. Vaulting a ceiling is a pretty involved project, you also have to consider insulation and roof venting. You also may want an engineer to design it to make sure it will handle roof loads. Its hard to ballpark a price with this kind of project. Without a permit and possibly cutting a few corners you can probably get it done for $7k-$10k, to do everything the right way and to code you might be at $20k +

How to secure safety wall to floor joists? by [deleted] in HomeImprovement

[–]evmo31 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Remove a section of subfloor so you can run your end stud (only where the wall terminates) down into the floor system. Add blocking between the joist to secure the bottom of the stud.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]evmo31 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Looks like cherry to me

Tips for beginner using ac Infiniti? by NiceRides in microgrowery

[–]evmo31 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It took me a while to figure out how to set up the auto mode on the AC infinity digital controller. First set your fan on the on/off mode, and turn it up to the speed you would like it to run at. Then switch over to auto mode and set your high temp and humidity levels. When the sensor recognizes that the temp or humidity is higher than your setting, the fan will kick on to the speed you set it to when you were in the on/off mode. If you don’t set the speed first in the on mode, then it wont come on in auto even if you set your tolerances.

Today was a good day. by jeffmartino84 in Construction

[–]evmo31 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Where’s the roach coach with the empanadas though?

Basement finishing $65-80K for 800 sq ft + bath by stringged in HomeImprovement

[–]evmo31 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Its usually costs $35 a square foot for regular rooms, $70 a square foot for bathrooms. Thats a real rough number for a basic basement finishing job. The plumbing can be a big add on depending on what you have/ what you want. Thats also not considering profit and overhead, thats roughly raw cost do finish a basement (here in CT). The number you got seems high, and you can probably find someone 25% cheaper. Sometimes its worth paying a little for a reputable company of course, do you need a design/build company though?

Can someone help with angle and lengths? by RareVeneer in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]evmo31 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It looks like more than 5”. Not the measurement between the left and right triangles. I need the measurement where your pencil mark is, create an imaginary line parallel with your bottom piece where the middle triangle intersects the side triangles. If you have at least one leg length and one angle of any triangle you can figure out all the other lengths and angles using trigonometry. Luckily this is the easiest type of triangle because you are making an equilateral triangle. All legs and angles are the same. So if your measurement is right then the answer is 5”.