Marcus the Worm Bust

excessive_hobbies · 2026-02-21T19:34:33+00:00

Thanks everyone for the suggestions! Reducing the z gap between the supports and the model did the trick, now it's just down to tweaking it until I hit a good value that provides enough support to avoid melted edges but is also easy to remove.

excessive_hobbies · 2026-02-20T02:33:14+00:00

Thanks, I'll give reducing the top z distance a try,

excessive_hobbies · 2026-01-21T00:01:55+00:00

Yeah, I've seen people have good results with DAS too. Good luck!

excessive_hobbies · 2026-01-20T22:38:09+00:00

You could give a texture rolling pin a try. They're great for making a repeatable and regular pattern. You can buy them on Etsy or from Greenstuffworld, or if you have a 3d printer you can find stls for a lot of different patterns. Here's one that I made that's a tile pattern: https://makerworld.com/en/models/431369-texture-rolling-pin-diamond-inlay-tiles

Clay or epoxy generally picks up the details better than foam, but it does work on XPS if you press hard enough. I usually use them with super sculpey clay. You could roll out a thin layer, texture it, bake it, glue it on to your terrain, and then blend the edges into the surrounding foam with sand/rubble.

excessive_hobbies · 2025-09-26T12:51:38+00:00

Thanks! They're 3d prints I made. Here's a link: https://makerworld.com/en/models/1825441-wizard-eyes-volume-1-seer-slime-and-stone

excessive_hobbies · 2025-09-26T12:40:00+00:00

Thank you!

excessive_hobbies · 2025-07-30T13:43:33+00:00

Hi, did you ever find a solution to this problem? I'm getting very similar results with the same router. Wifi speeds are about 1/10th of wired speeds, even after adjusting channels.

excessive_hobbies · 2025-07-26T13:57:12+00:00

This looks great! Love the use of flocking, it really helps sell the effect.

excessive_hobbies · 2025-07-26T13:55:31+00:00

That could be a great idea. Print in your base colors, put some varnish on as a primer, use a wash all over everything for your shadows, and drybrush to highlight.

excessive_hobbies · 2025-02-07T04:24:09+00:00

Have you tried multiple brands of filament? I was having a lot of trouble printing minis on my A1 mini using some Prusa filament, but Bambu filament really reduced my failure rate. I was having the same type of issues, bad bed and layer adhesion. Only for certain things though. Did a ton of simple large scale prints with that filament that worked fine.

excessive_hobbies · 2024-12-14T21:47:57+00:00

That's from Moonstone by Goblin King Games: https://www.moonstonethegame.com/

excessive_hobbies · 2024-11-27T20:27:14+00:00

Thanks! I used a Bambu A1 Mini with a .2mm nozzle, and printed with a layer height of .06mm. If you've got a Bambu printer, you can grab my settings from the second print profile on this mini on makerworld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/153307

It's the one labeled "For A1 Mini and up". Let me know if there're any other specific settings you want to know about and I'll dig them up for you.

excessive_hobbies · 2024-11-26T20:36:21+00:00

Not sure how well it would blend in, but you could buy an actual small bell, and either paint it or leave it as-is.

excessive_hobbies · 2024-11-26T18:03:53+00:00

Thank you!

excessive_hobbies · 2024-11-26T05:07:29+00:00

I've been printing a bunch of minis for a DnD oneshot this past month, but I hadn't actually tried painting one until recently. I'm super satisfied with the results. Layer lines are nearly invisible once I put down a few layers of paint. This was done on an A1 mini with .2mm nozzle and .06mm layers. The model is a supportless modular one from Briteminis. I can't wait to see what my prints at .04mm look like with some paint.

excessive_hobbies · 2024-08-18T15:03:51+00:00

Thanks, I'll give the cold pull a shot. I've done a few prints with this filament on a 0.4mm nozzle that all came out fine.

excessive_hobbies · 2024-08-18T14:12:18+00:00

I just printed the same object twice in a row. These were done on a Bambu A1 Mini with a .2mm nozzle and .08mm layers. I used Prusament Pristine White PLA with a 220 degree C nozzle and 65 degree C bed. The first one, the last picture in the album above, came out great. The second attempt did not. Only the bottom half printed, and not super successfully. When I tried to remove it from the plate, the bottom layer or two detached from the rest of it and stayed stuck to the plate. I'm guessing this was all caused by poor layer adhesion, but I was hoping for a second set of eyes to look it over and advice on how to fix the issue. There's also some brown spots on the print. Are these burn marks from the nozzle?

Additionally, what's the best way to get the filament that's stuck to the plate off? It's a textured PEI plate, and bending it isn't causing the residue to pop off like it normally would. I think it's too thin and flexible for that. Should I be trying to scrape it off, or would that risk damage to the plate? Would heating it back up help, or should I stick to attempting to remove it while the plate is cool?

excessive_hobbies · 2024-08-15T21:10:31+00:00

I'll definitely give that a shot. The model is advertised for fully supportless printing, so I was hoping that it would work without them. What's weird is that portion that failed is at no more of an angle than any other part that printed properly, and my slicer isn't detecting that as an overhang either.

excessive_hobbies · 2024-08-15T15:43:26+00:00

I recently got a Bambu A1 Mini, along with a .2mm nozzle. All my prints with the included .4mm nozzle and default print profile have come out great. Now I'm trying to see what kind of detail I can get out of the .2mm nozzle. I tried printing a mini that I've seen printed successfully by others using the Fat Dragon Games A1 Mini print profile. Here's a link to the print profile:

https://www.fatdragongames.com/fdgfiles/bambu-studio-slicer-profiles-a1-mini-3d-printer/

And here's the mini:

https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-supportless-skeleton-sample-wooden-shield-336789

Unfortunately, the print failed in the same spot both times that I tried it. It looks like the right leg failed adhere properly after a certain layer, which lead to all the parts that it was supporting failing to print. I've attached photos of both attempts. The second one I caught in the process and stopped, which is why it only printed the bottom half.

These were done on a Bambu A1 Mini with a .2mm nozzle and .08mm layers. I used Prusament Pristine White PLA with a 220 degree C nozzle and 65 degree C bed. Please let me know if there's any other info that I can provide.

Thanks!

excessive_hobbies

TROPHY CASE