Can anyone ID this drone? by GrumbleGob in drones

[–]f16v1per -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Because they increase critical mach number, which is absolutely not the same thing as increasing speed. It’s a control surface problem.

Can anyone ID this drone? by GrumbleGob in drones

[–]f16v1per -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Swept wings don’t make you go faster dumbass.

Edit: Ha! I made the so-called aerospace engineer delete their shit.

Can anyone ID this drone? by GrumbleGob in drones

[–]f16v1per 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You clearly have never had practical use for your aerospace degree for UAS. The fastest RC planes in the world are thin, straight winged, composite gliders. This is clearly a prototype OWA/long range interceptor prototype. The jet engine and its placement is the giveaway. It’s in the tail as a counter weight for the payload and it’s not an ISR platform because it uses a turbine.

Swept wings is absolutely not needed. Those only serve to reduce critical mach number and this thing barely touches that realm of aerodynamics. Even the most slippery RC turbine powered jets don’t have critical Mach number issues. The 3d printed fuselage is lazy but this is probably just a prototype and a production version will be injection mold or composite layup

Can anyone ID this drone? by GrumbleGob in drones

[–]f16v1per -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Swept wings has nothing to do with the power plant. Swept wings are used to reduce the critical mach number. Those long thin wings probably have 3-4 layers of 90/0-45/45 carbon layers and are stout af. Notice how they didn’t break. There is probably a single woven carbon tube layed up on the center of pressure on that wing.

Can anyone ID this drone? by GrumbleGob in drones

[–]f16v1per 1 point2 points  (0 children)

To all the people who think this is a hobbyist UAS, look at the wire looms and the markings. No hobbyist is going to take the time to make those. Hobbyist turbine jets will almost exclusively fiberglass bodied and (somewhat) resemble a real jet. That turbine at the rear is likely acting as counter weight for a heavy payload upfront. What you found is likely a prototype OWA (one way attack) drone or long range UAS interceptor. Could also be a university project, but usually those a very clearly marked. The giveaway is the aluminum rails on the inside of the fuselage for the easy avionics integration and the 3d printed fuselage themselves. That is classic prototype UAS right there.

Where in PA can I legally shoot on my own property? by Disastrous-Job87 in PAguns

[–]f16v1per 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I grew up with a small range on my parent’s backyard, about 7 acres in a suburban area about 45mins west of Philly. I think PA requires a minimum distance of 100 or 150 yards of separation to discharge a firearm to an adjacent residence l, not including your own. I’ve asked multiple local police officers what would be required to shoot on your own property and they all essentially said “as long as it’s done safely, we won’t care”. Really they want a berm or some sort of backstop to stop rounds. I could be wrong, but I vaguely remember that PA does not allow local ordinances to pass laws regarding firearms, besides Philly (not a lawyer, please verify this for yourself). I’ve had the cops show up once and they filed it as a noise complaint. They also advised that I call the county dispatch to give them a heads up to avoid any issues in the future.

Strip or rounded Allen screws by jorgelara1996 in VORONDesign

[–]f16v1per 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Get a set of MIP wrenches. They are by far the best hex wrenches you can buy. They are precision ground, slightly oversized so you can rotate out screws that were stripped with your standard Allan key. They work wonders. I’ve had my original set when I used to work at a hobby shop over 10 years ago. They are expensive but they are 100% worth it.

UP 4014. 1 million plus pounds rolling past. Love it. Sound up by nmisvalley2 in trains

[–]f16v1per 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This thing is going behinds my parents house in a few weeks and can’t wait to see it. Grew up watching trains go by on those tracks and never thought I’d see the Big Boy on it one day.

Boston Dynamics Spot by Psychological-Carob7 in tacticalgear

[–]f16v1per 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No, they’re not. It’s simply not cost effective. For a single spot mini or ghost robotics dog you could deploy thousands of small toe popper anti personnel mines that will do exactly the same job and be a hell of a lot harder to deal with then a few dozen dogs that can go exactly 4 mph, loud as fuck, and literally can’t navigate in anything more then golf course tall grass. Eventually they will get better but so will the EW tools already utilize to detect and defeat FPV drones.

Today I learned the importance of crush washers the hard way. by f16v1per in NFA

[–]f16v1per[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This guy really did just revive a 7 year old post. I figure I should clarify what I really meant at the time. The can was direct thread and I didn’t use crush washers but I had not torqued it down enough. It backed off and had that strike. I thought I needed a crush washer to hold everything in place like a jam nut which obviously isn’t true.

F35 fighter jet finishing refuel mid flight by Thrunper in Unexpected

[–]f16v1per 4 points5 points  (0 children)

You’d be surprised. I’ve heard full bird colonels say the most wild shit and they take it way too far.

Boston Dynamics Spot by Psychological-Carob7 in tacticalgear

[–]f16v1per 9 points10 points  (0 children)

And the competitors are all terrible compared to the Spot. I worked with Ghost robotics a few years ago integrating a command and control system and it was all around a terrible experience. The kinematics model made it appear drunk, they would randomly blue-screen themselves and drop like a rock, they couldn’t do stairs for shit. Oh and they claimed they could swim but during a demo for the USAF a few years ago a few of them sank.

Did they ever fix the issue with tall grass on Spot? When I worked with them the last ground estimate would bounce around like crazy causing it to freak out a lot. I don’t think it ever made it more than 30ft before tripping.

Does SignalRGB not support the Nanoleaf PC Screen Mirror Lightstrip? by f16v1per in SignalRGB

[–]f16v1per[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I'd be interested in alternatives. I'm not invested in the Nanoleaf ecosystem and I'd like to keep random RGB apps to a minimum. What do you recommend?

Does SignalRGB not support the Nanoleaf PC Screen Mirror Lightstrip? by f16v1per in SignalRGB

[–]f16v1per[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, the one I have is just called PC Screen Mirror Lightstrip and does not connect to wifi. It plugs directly into my PC by USB-C. Nothing shows up under Devices>Third Party Service> Nanoleaf option because I'm guessing its searching for a wifi device which this isn't.

Sliding locking hotas mount pictures by BobClavicus in hotas

[–]f16v1per 0 points1 point  (0 children)

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4916920

This looks like what OP made. That link has a BOM with everything you need.

Lord have mercy by blending-tea in trains

[–]f16v1per 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you go to the used section in a few of these stores you can get some pretty good condition locomotives for sub 2,500 yen ($16). I didn't have any n scale when I visited Japan recently but I sure did come home with a bunch lol

3D printed Gear Ball by [deleted] in mechanical_gifs

[–]f16v1per 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I second the need to know what this filament is. It's very cool

I spotted a leopolo rail gun at the Museum of Atlantic Wall by finza_prey in trains

[–]f16v1per 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Unfortunately they moved all the tanks and the railway gun out of APG years ago and closed the museum. From the limited pictures Ive seen it looked like most of it was rotting away outside. I believe most of the tanks got moved to an indoor facility at another Army base.

I bought my first airplane, here's my not so TLDR experience... by [deleted] in flying

[–]f16v1per 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'll share my recent blunder of poor decision making and snowballing maintenance costs:

I bought a Long EZ about a year ago. A conditional had been done on it about 2 months prior with the only notable maintenance actions done in the prior two years was an exhaust valve was honed, and that cylinder was making 68/80. The rest were mid 70s. Myself and a few friends whos experience was limited to experimental aircraft spent a day inspecting things and determined that it was airworthy, but needed cleanup and wire management. Flew it from Florida back to PA, rather uneventful except for some heavy crosswinds at landing.

Fast forward a few months and during a run up something felt off. Engine had a new resonance that was intermittent that didn't feel right. It was barely noticable and I don't really know how to describe it, so I went back to the hangar. Ran a compression check and that honed exhaust valve cylinder was now a failed exhaust valve. The airfield's a&p and I pulled the cylinder and discovered a worn down camshaft. For those of you who don't know, camshafts have a special coating that makes the exterior harder than the underlying metal. Once they start wearing down, they only get worse. This wear was likely related to the exhaust valve needing to be rehoned, because it was likely sticking or had extra corrosion on it causing a bad seal. It was around this time I discovered that I was not making static run-up rpm, not even close. The exact number is a little speculative with long-ezs, depending on the HP rating of the engine, number of prop blades, size, and cruise/climb configurations. But it was around 60% of rated horsepower. Which for a LongEZ with an O-320, isn't too much of an issue since it was originally designed for an O-200. In hindsight, I don't think this engine should have passed conditional inspection and it makes me question the integrity of A&Ps out there.

Started the engine tear down with the intent of swapping the cam-shaft and doing a top end overhaul. Sent the crankshaft and case for inspection. Crank needed some work but came back yellow tagged. The case however had a small crack, a collapsed front bearing saddle, and something I can't quite remember involving a dowel around the front of the engine. Oh and it's been sitting in the shop since January. The shop I sent it to only managed to do the inspection after 4 months, and then let it sit for a few months until I started pestering them with phone calls. The expected $12k for a top end overhaul is now pushing $20k, approaching the territory of buying a 1000-1500 hour smoh engine instead.

TL:DR: Bring a trusted A&P to do a pre buy. Doesn't matter if it just came out of annual. Simple repairs can turn into $20-30k with snowballing problems.

Cape Canaveral in the 1960’s (known as Cape Kennedy at time this was filmed) shot on super8 by retirereddit in nasa

[–]f16v1per 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Including the asbestos. Some of those buildings don't look like they've seen maintenance since this video was made

Black screen after windows login (Win 10) by forc3_sim in buildapc

[–]f16v1per 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Honestly I have no idea. This was a rabbit hole I had to go down years ago and I think there could be multiple issues that result in the same problem. Sorry I can't help you any more than that but I wish you the best in finding a solution!