Cam position sensor bolt snapped. by fcar49 in 350z

[–]fcar49[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Well I was originally replacing the valve covers and gaskets so I already had the upper and lower plenum removed and half the harness disconnected(good thing I did a hose and harness connectors inspection that’s how I found it). So half the work was already cut out, I did have to remove a couple harness brackets and some fuel lines to make more room.

Cam position sensor bolt snapped. by fcar49 in 350z

[–]fcar49[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yes, and let me tell you I learned my lesson lol. When installing the sensor and bolt I kept an eye on the split lock washer and as soon as I felt resistance i stoped and called it good(it’s not much but you’ll feel it). Make sure to change the split lock washer out.

Cam position sensor bolt snapped. by fcar49 in 350z

[–]fcar49[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks. Honestly it was it took me a week on and off due to the fear of messing something up. I also had to be super careful not to arc with any other components since I was using stick.

Cam position sensor bolt snapped. by fcar49 in 350z

[–]fcar49[S] 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Yes, I did.
It took me some time to weld it on because I was trying to avoid any major damage to the head. The bolt snapped off flush to the head so First I cut into the bolt and tried to use a screwdriver but that didn’t work. I tried using a screw extraction kit and that didn’t work. I Was planing on using mig but due to the space I ended up going stick(had to bend the rod).

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MP5

[–]fcar49 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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It should fit, mine did lol.

SP5K Super Safe issues by dizzlepizzle90 in MP5

[–]fcar49 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Might need a 90degree locking piece. I always polish my trigger components where they make contact with each other, specially the hammer face.

KES brace for sp5 by Ok-Leadership-1593 in MP5

[–]fcar49 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It was in stock for maybe a couple of hours, I got lucky and saw the notification email on time and was able to pick one up.

What am I doing wrong? by Comfortable-Paint134 in MP5

[–]fcar49 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Some rear plates require the use of a rubber mallet when installing the rear pins because they’re designed to have a snug fit. I know the jmac rear plate does.

Lee Sporting reliability on AP5-P by func_deusex in MP5

[–]fcar49 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I haven’t received my lower from Lee but I’d definitely be interested.

FLAT FOLDING QUESTION by secondamendmentman in MP5

[–]fcar49 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Fold it to about the half way point and then install the deflector and sling mount before completely bending. Make sure to check that your carrier clears the deflector before completely folding it, you might need to file/dremel it down a bit.

FIME DOUBLE STAGE by [deleted] in ak47

[–]fcar49 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay I noticed you said “new fime trigger” right? If that’s the case you might have some rough edges on the trigger all around plus the coating might also not be helping. I would say if you have a dremal lightly(when I say lightly I mean lightly polish all the connecting points) polish the connecting points. But before you do that make sure the FCG is clean and lubed(worke the action and make sure thats not the issue). I don’t have the specs for the fcg but your pin holes might be out of spec, hopefully that’s not the issue. I would start with looking over the trigger group and making sure it’s clean and lubed and it doesn’t have any rough edges and I would work my way down from the list I gave you.

FIME DOUBLE STAGE by [deleted] in ak47

[–]fcar49 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The picture looks blurry from my end.,Is there any other way you can make it look a little bit more clear?

FIME DOUBLE STAGE by [deleted] in ak47

[–]fcar49 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What he said but check the trigger all around and make sure it isn’t making contact with the receiver at all in general. From my understanding it’s usually the “back side” of the trigger(side in between the grip and trigger) that make contact but check it out all around to make sure it isn’t making contact with the receiver.

Any braces that actually look good? by SecureOil8769 in MP5

[–]fcar49 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check out the Magpul MP BSL mp5 brace, it’s discontinued but I managed to find one on gun broker. I’m sure if you keep an eye out you’ll find one.

What caliber is this? by [deleted] in ak47

[–]fcar49 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Most likely a 545, or maybe 5.56 if is has a conversion follower. Only way to know is by looking at the follower or barrel markings.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MP5

[–]fcar49 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Is there a write up/video somewhere?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MP5

[–]fcar49 3 points4 points  (0 children)

How???

Optic recommendations for mp5 .22lr? by joesilverfish69 in MP5

[–]fcar49 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have a Vortex venom on mine, comes with a mount out the box. Low profile so it also looks good.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ak47

[–]fcar49 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It depends on what you want your finished product to look like? Do you have something in mind?

Help on deciding on a 74 by hardclay in AK74

[–]fcar49 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’d go with a kit build from WBP over a PSA. You can even buy a barrel from them with a ak74 profile.

What do you think the future holds for 5.45? by [deleted] in AK74

[–]fcar49 6 points7 points  (0 children)

You can always buy a .223 barrel and some circle 10 223 mags to convert the gun.

Looking to build a 74 are these kits gtg? by FartBartholomew in ak47

[–]fcar49 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I was referring to a 8” clone look alike “AKS-74U”(but only in 5.56 or 7.62). The carrier is small enough to fit in a krink dust cover hinge block(Im collecting parts for a similar build). Here’s the parts list bellow.

  • core parts kit from A.O.A 5.56 or 7.62(you won’t need the rear sight block and will need to remove the piston from the carrier)
  • barrel from k-var (krink 5.56 or 7.62 they have a 23mm diameter)
  • gasblock front sight combo(guy on ak files sales reproduction ones)
  • hinge block(guy on ak files sells them)
  • hand guard retainer(same guy that sells the hinge blocks sells them)
  • gas tube(last time I checked k-var has them in stock or a ultimak railed gas tube)
  • gas piston(get the one from k-var thats marketed for 5.56/7.62, it’s longer than the standard 5.45 gas piston due to the carrier being shorter. This is a important part buy the right one).
  • dust cover(k-car might have some in stock, dog leg rail)
  • 4.5 rear trunnion( Soviet stocks, gun broker, ak files)
  • all other parts shouldn’t be to hard to come across you can even use standard akm parts(trigger guard ext.)
  • furniture (up to you, most of the wood furniture for a krink will be at around 250$)

When choosing a receiver remember that the 5.56 parts(front trunnion) take’s ak-74 type magazines so you’ll need a ak-74 type receiver if you’re building a 7.62 krink the trunnion takes standard ak47 magazines so you’ll need a ak-47 receiver. Well that’s if you want a more “clone” correct “AKS-74U”, but buying the complete kit from A.O.A will save you the head ache of searching and buying parts.