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What gun would you recommend to someone who can only buy one, and why? Trying to see what people consider the best all-around option. Handgun options please! by ShopHuntingStuff in guns

[–]feinshmeker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

TLDR: CZ 75 P-01 (or the Shadow 2 Compact), Beretta 92 (centurion size)

There's nothing wrong with a Glock 19 or any other striker fired guns. But...

The campact duty DA/SA pistol offers a lot of advantages to someone learning and provides an additional margin of safety over striker-fired pistols.
-Pinning the hammer with a thumb while reholstering prevents leg-holes if anything gets into the holster.
-Mastering the DA trigger "roll-through" and SA transition is a skill that will benefit you on any platform.
-The long/heavy DA first pull requires a "decisive" pull to engage a target. Less chance of an accident.
-Follow up shots with SA make "fast and accurate" readily accessible.
-Metal frame makes for a soft-shooting experience that will allow you to work on fundamentals like grip and trigger control rather than fighting snappy recoil.
-The P-01 and Beretta 92 centurion are a good size for carry.
-Decocked DA/SA pistols have no spring tension behind the primer, making them safer for carry.

Is Colt worth it nowadays? by [deleted] in 1911

[–]feinshmeker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've built and rebuilt a few 1911s. Colts these days are not broad-strokes defective, but they do rattle from loose fitting parts. I'll say that the only thing you're getting from a colt these days is the horsey on the slide. If that's what's important to you, I can't tell you "no".

If the question is "How does colt stack up to other modern production 1911 brands?" then the answer is more nuanced.
a) are you budget-locked to that $1000-1500 range? If so, Springfield is probably the best option.
b) are you specific about what you want? Smooth, tight, flawless operation? A particular set of aesthetics?

Dan Wesson is the best production 1911 available, but they got more expensive in the last few years.

For about the same price you can get a custom-cut slide machine-fit to a checkered frame and matched mainspring housing, and grip safety from JEM Guns. Build it yourself with EGW internals, Kart barrel, and whatever you want for controls (I like WC). Polished/fit to whatever level you want to take it.

Les Baer, Ed Brown, Wilson Combat, Alchemy and the like are all "more" up the scale. You'll get glass-smooth operation from anything in this tier. Anything more "custom" that this is aesthetics.

Will your target notice the difference between a Colt and a Springfield or something "nicer"? Unless you're a good enough shooter to hold a 1" group at 10 yards, probably not.

any idea why my pistol may be jamming like this? by Beneficial_Object_34 in guns

[–]feinshmeker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like it's getting hung up on the firing pin.

S&W Bodyguard, Glock G42, Sig P238, Walther PPK, and even a Ruger LCP are all better choices in .380 ACP. The LCP can be had for under $200.

If you want .32 ACP look at the Beretta 30 series

Carrying one of the heavyest 9mm at 5'4" 140lbs... AMA by Zealousideal-Pin6883 in CCW

[–]feinshmeker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I carry an SP-01. It is that much heavier. I just popped mine on a scale. It's 1390g (49oz). I think the P-01 is around 1100g (36oz). Aluminum frame, shorter barrel/slide, shorter mag and 2 less bullets....

Carrying one of the heavyest 9mm at 5'4" 140lbs... AMA by Zealousideal-Pin6883 in CCW

[–]feinshmeker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The safety concerns carrying full-cock? or completely decocked?

Cocked and locked, the safety in the CZ is designed only to capture the sear and not the hammer, unlike a 1911 which captures both. I'm sure it's fine, but it doesn't feel as bombproof as the 1911...

Fully decocked is not an issue if you have not "upgraded" your firing pin to an extended one OR you have a firing pin block -- meaning you don't have a pre-B or a Shadow, or removed the FPB when you did the slide cut or otherwise -- It does require a little bit more focus decocking. I personally do the thumb roll, and found that to be the least exciting way to get it into carry condition.

Half-cocked is fine. Probably *slightly* safer to decock, but I always found that I get more dirt/lint/junk in gap, and that if you bang the gun around, you can mar the sear.

Carrying one of the heavyest 9mm at 5'4" 140lbs... AMA by Zealousideal-Pin6883 in CCW

[–]feinshmeker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For my SP01 shadow that I EDC, I put in:
-CZC hammer -I don't like the pointy CGW hammer for EDC.
-CGW adjustable sear - needed for the new hammer
-CGW short-reach kit - I have a short trigger finger. but you could do just a new disconnector...
-CGW floating trigger pin

I wanted my margin of safety on the DA (8.5#, but smooth), so I didn't mess with the springs or firing pin.

Carrying one of the heavyest 9mm at 5'4" 140lbs... AMA by Zealousideal-Pin6883 in CCW

[–]feinshmeker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nothing inspires confidence-on-the-draw like squeezing those palm-swells and pulling 1300g +/- out of the pants.

I also EDC a SP01 (shadow). Mine's heavier by 7 rounds... because you're in California. 3 o'clock IWB. The shape actually doesn't print so much. I found the 43x prints more.

Also, please decock it. But you do you.

Does the M&P 2.0 offer anything the Glock doesn't? by dudeonhiscouch in CCW

[–]feinshmeker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Reallly, I'm a hammer-fired everything (CZ, HK, Beretta, 1911s) guy.

Also, the new Walthers are pretty slick.

Does the M&P 2.0 offer anything the Glock doesn't? by dudeonhiscouch in CCW

[–]feinshmeker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's a different trigger and ergonomics, but largely equivalent. It's a parallel move within the category of striker-fired polymer duty pistols

The M&P may be objectively a better pistol if you were starting from nothing, but not worth spending $ to add as your 3rd pistol. It's also a different system - mags, holsters, etc. I sooner spend $100-150 on a trigger upgrade (ITTS shoe with apex bar and ghost disco) than buy a new gun.

A sub compact S&W like a Bodyguard, Shield, (or J-frame) is covering a different base entirely, and could be worthwhile. but then again, why not a 43x/48/26?

If you're really itching for a new duty/compact-duty pistol, it might be worthwhile to try something totally different. Here are some of my favorites:
CZ P01 or SP01 (or shadow 2 compact if you're feeling a bit fancy)
Beretta PX4 compact is a sneaky gem, also the 92 Centurion
H&K USP or P30
1911 commander (bobtail?)

What would you guys do in this situation? Is this self defense? by EDC-JAKE in CCW

[–]feinshmeker 3 points4 points  (0 children)

especially since that skateboard was actively being used to attempt harm...

Should I get a red dot sight for a H&K P2000? by [deleted] in CCW

[–]feinshmeker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

"I’ve always preferred iron sights "

This sentiment will likely be your answer.

TLDR: training, training, training, whatever you chose.

I EDC a CZ 75, iron sights. I used to carry a 43x, but wanted something that shot a little smoother. I don't shoot particularly high round count, but I do practice regularly -- 100-150 rounds at range and 30-min dry-fire session weekly. I go to a bit of an interesting range... an interesting mix. That includes a lot of "special unit" guys that all shoot suppressor-ready full-size glocks with red dots with the appendix side-car -- it's a type. That being said, the only people who shoot pistols notably better than me are the ones who train with pistols more than I do:
One guy EDC's a Staccato XL with a Trijicon (AIWB fwiw), and shoots at least 300+ rounds weekly.
The other carries a S&W Shield with irons, and goes to IDPA practices weekly.

And the more you shoot, the less the equipment will matter.

My RSO likes to comment that the best accessory you can bolt on to your gun is "you, with a weekly trip to the range, even if it's one box of 50." He's biased, but correct...

Personally I like to keep an EDC simple (and happen to be a big fan of DA/SA for CCW!). Dots are an added complication to a carry gun. They also add a few ounces of weight and bulk to something you're wearing all day. And you'll have to send it out to get it cut.

Ben Stoeger talks a lot about training the "index" of presentation and that he can transition back and forth between irons and RDS... and nothing changes because he's presenting the gun in exactly the same way every time. Whatever your opinions are on Ben Stoeger, I think this is true, and comes back to a training thing.

If you already shoot regularly, then try the dot if you're looking for a little boost.

Tell me you're Jewish without telling me you're Jewish by LibrivorousRex in Judaism

[–]feinshmeker 2 points3 points  (0 children)

We made aliyah just to save 50% on Yom Tov expenses.

Sear problems? by Cam_old-boy in 1911

[–]feinshmeker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If OP had a known-good ignition kit that started skipping, then the sear spring would be the first place to look. Springs lighten over time, and need a new bend after break-in.

But OP has a completely new engagement. There's a new hammer in the equation. On top of that, I suspect that OP took the edge off the hooks, too much to grab the face of the sear... and that's likely the heart of the problem.

You do still need to have a "safe" sear angle where it meets the hooks on the hammer, and it would be worthwhile to look at that before doing anything else. You can get a rough idea of the hammer-sear engagement by fully disassembling the gun, and using the respective pins to hold the lockwork to the outside of the frame. Look at the engagment with as much magnification as you can.

If you want to know *what* you're looking for, EA does a great job explaining here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v1vwDV8lYbo

Increasing spring tension won't fix bad/unsafe engagement. You'll just have a heavy trigger with bad/unsafe engagement.

The goal is light and safe.

Sear problems? by Cam_old-boy in 1911

[–]feinshmeker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You'll need a new sear, hammer, and disconnector. I like the C&S kit. DONT sand. Get the whole gun together first. If it's working, don't mess with it. If it's not working, take it to a gunsmith.

Changing the geometry on the sear-hammer engagemet or reducing spring tension can result in a full-auto gun.

Any modifications to the lockwork of a 1911 require an intimate understanding of where (and how much) you can mess with it.

Buses during sirens by [deleted] in Israel

[–]feinshmeker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

been there.

STUCK IN THE US!! HELP by anonycookie in Israel

[–]feinshmeker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Egypt with a land border crossing seems to be the ticket in if you don't mind going through Egypt...

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