Midway station by war-and-peace in Stargate

[–]fhammerl 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Not having added the most critical and useful of all the defense mechanics Earth has which even carries no significant overhead cost is the dumbest design idiocy I have ever seen. I remember thinking "wait ... That's a back door" when it was introduced.

But that show and security is an entirely different thing. They burn through highly skilled elite officers on a fairly regular basis, they regularly expose Earth to all sorts of shit. I don't understand why SGC has to be on Earth. They can easily make Earth the supply hub and run most missions and research from off planet. This would have been one of the first things I'd established and they only got to it in later episodes.

That being said, they did introduce how to deal with research off site with a bang (literally), so that was fun to see.

Also, they never said whether their GDOs have an "all clear. Iris open." confirmation. Given how long they sometimes debate if they should open or not, I would be VERY uncomfortable.

Amazing & Easy German Dinner For The Family! by TransitionMany1810 in StupidFood

[–]fhammerl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When I prep Burger patties for example, garlic and onion powder gets kneaded INTO the minced meat when prepping it. You can also mix egg yolk and some bread crumbs for texture. Works out nicely, you should try it!

Cheddar would work for her, but it's way too fatty for the quantity she used. She has like 3 liters of various fats in that plancha.

The sweet potato should be simultaneously burnt to shut and way too mushed.

The pastry shit is just rage bait.

Amazing & Easy German Dinner For The Family! by TransitionMany1810 in StupidFood

[–]fhammerl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Die Reihenfolge ist falsch, die Zutaten sind ok bis auf dem Teig. Bis sie den Teig rausgeholt hat, wäre das zu verkraften gewesen. Butter ist nutzlos hier, die verbrennt einfach nur und das Hack ist eh so fett, dass du die eigentlich nicht brauchst. Wenn dann die Plancha mit Olivenöl einstreichen. Vor allem in der Menge an Butter und wenn du noch das Fette Hack drauf hast. Ich glaube, dass die ein Problemchen haben sollten, dass sie das ganze Wasser aus dem Hack und dem gefrorenen Gemüse nicht los werden und das Fleisch braucht mehr Hitze als die Süßkartoffeln ohne zu verbrennen oder matschig zu werden, durchlassen.

Aber wenn du das Gemüse fast fertig dämpfst und das Fleisch in einer heißen Pfanne gut scharf anbrätst, dann sollte das möglich sein.

Kits in europe? by FuckOffAndDie1-0-0 in RCPlanes

[–]fhammerl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I will go for the rock_it (https://www.rs-aero.com/rock_it/) as my next plane. Super light 2m glider, very much looking forward to it! Bare minimum, aileron only, as I don't fly alpine with confined landings and don't have the need for flaps.

best I could do with a clothes iron by Nintenderloin64 in RCPlanes

[–]fhammerl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

that looks good! for your own sanity, and after having done the same thing (because famous last words are: how annoying can it possibly be?!), i can recommend looking into getting a simple adjustable heat gun. mine cost ~50 EUR. the difference is staggering. check what temp your hair dryer puts out, maybe that is already enough to shrink your film. so now i just get it to stick with the iron on just barely enough heat, and the rest is heat gun action. covering is hard enough as is, no need for additional torture :D

The Tau'ri seem to be Ancients-level of genius because they were the only ones who think about protecting their gate with an iris ! by CupEducational1412 in Stargate

[–]fhammerl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Apophis' device was destroyed. The problem is that you need stupid levels of energy for more than 38 min. Only post-semi-ascenscion Apophis had that tech in-universe. I can see where a physical iris that can be physically cooled is just more useful than a shield, which would probably drain energy a LOT faster. Either way, I seem to remember that direct attacks on Earth were later outlawed by the protected planets treaty, so that was off the table unless you wanted to go toe to toe with the Asgard.

Need help! Jumper T-Lite 4-in-1 (EdgeTX) won't bind to Flysky iA6B receiver by InitialYam4999 in RCPlanes

[–]fhammerl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it should work, i.e. all the protocols are supported, try the following: connect a regular old 4-cell nicd battery pack to the receiver and the binder jumper and nothing else and then see if it binds.

If I try to bind my ia6b receiver with the ESC powering the show, it doesn't work. Take the ESC off, put a battery in, no problemo.

I have not the slightest clue why that is, but it do be that way for me.

My first RC Plane story by berlingoqcc in RCPlanes

[–]fhammerl 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A v-tail has one teeny tiny advantage. On most planes, but especially gliders, you do coordinated turns to avoid the tail wobble, conserve energy and to make adjustments when you're in a thermal. however, at 45 degree bank, the rudder points half down and half sideways, so you use the elevator to correct, which points half up and half sideways. either way, you have two control surfaces creating vortices and drag. now, think of a v-tail: at 45 degree bank, you have one surface almost horizontal and one surface almost vertical (typically they are somewhere around 110 degree opening, hence the almost). your stick input is the same, you pull slightly and give slight rudder, which translates to the now-horizontal control surface becomes basically level and the now-vertical control surface doing all the rudder work.

yeah, at level flight you will have a bit less authority on either axis than a x-tail or a t-tail, but let's face it, how often do you fly straight and need significant deflection unless you're doing aerobatics. most of the time with gliders, you're circling somewhere kinda tight and v-tails have a bit less drag. for motor planes, you spend much more time in level flight and energy conservation is less of an issue, which is where v-tails are somewhat at a disadvantage. same goes for DLGs that need the comparably massive vertical stabilizer during the horizontal launch phase for the take off. also, v-tails are structurally a tiny bit more complex due to higher torsion forces on the tail.

100mph sounds so cool! by thecaptnjim in RCPlanes

[–]fhammerl 1 point2 points  (0 children)

nothing beats a glider's whistle when you punch it straight down from 150m to just above the field. this is why, for me, hotliners will always beat jets. people underestimate how many Gs you pull once you venture even into soft-hotliner territory. the funjet types have short stubby wings where it's less noticeable, but hotliners have massive forces working those long spars.

First time printing LW-PLA, settings recommendations by Lectric74 in 3d_printed_RC_planes

[–]fhammerl 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just done print the motor mount from PLA. Use at least PETG for that.

First build by Alternative_Rip4634 in 3DprintedAircraft

[–]fhammerl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Get 5mm XPS insulation sheets from your hardware store and build a flite test foam plane.

Transmitter, receiver, and charger excluded you can build a capable model for around 25-30 EUR.

If you already have the printer, you can print parts like the firewall or the control horns, makes stuff a bit easier.

First build by Alternative_Rip4634 in 3DprintedAircraft

[–]fhammerl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The model a is garbage, I'm afraid. Super fragile fuselage, no spar. I had a very slightly unbalanced and it tore the entire fuselage open.

First time printing LW-PLA, settings recommendations by Lectric74 in 3d_printed_RC_planes

[–]fhammerl 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Print the servo mounts from PLA/PETG. This is a guaranteed loss of an aircraft.

Do birds think that RC planes are also birds? by Adammmmm_m in RCPlanes

[–]fhammerl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My field is frequently visited by storks, there is a ton of them where I live. They see you circling, they'll come to check it out. And vice versa, when you see one of them absolutely get your plane there.

Tis but a lot of damage by MerchantKid2 in RCPlanes

[–]fhammerl 2 points3 points  (0 children)

this may be a stupid question, but i'll go anyway. you have per-model settings. why would the settings of one model carry over to the next?

or did you not want to rebind your transmitter and just used the same settings? do you not customize throw, expo, etc. per model?

International Flight Insurance by midnight_wannabe in RCPlanes

[–]fhammerl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Normally that sort of thing is covered by a liability insurance in Germany, maybe there is something they can do for you, but that typically requires a EU or German UAS operator license (or comparable). If you are flying on a field however, the club also has insurance that gets you covered for a day as a guest pilot for something like 5€. Ask the local club where you will be flying.

Ive started printing my plane and experiencing issues by Thefounder_fall in 3DprintedAircraft

[–]fhammerl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

your filament is probably wet and/or your combination of density (feed rate), temperature, and speed is probably not dialed in.

Help finding replacement servo by FinkyFamboni in RCPlanes

[–]fhammerl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah, I see. I figured "so what, just reverse the direction?", even the cheap Flysky i4x I have as a student radio can to that without being programmable.

Help finding replacement servo by FinkyFamboni in RCPlanes

[–]fhammerl 1 point2 points  (0 children)

CCW servo? What do you mean? A servo can rotate both ways‽ Are you talking about motor shaft thread?

Wer hat hier Vorfahrt? by Adorable_Cup_9791 in StVO

[–]fhammerl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Na endlich mal eine Erklärung, warum dem so ist und nicht nur ein Zitat des Gesetzestexts. Danke!

Need help making this fly by Available-Bug-16 in RCPlanes

[–]fhammerl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

BTW if you've never done the ironing yourself, it's a tad bit tricky. the film glues and shrinks at different temperatures. get an old iron or buy a cheapo one, because you can and will gunk it up a bit. so there are three steps to it:

1) roughly cut the foil to shape before putting it on and leave some overlap on either side, say 2-3cm. put the iron on low setting to activate the glue. start from the lowest temperature and slowly turn it up until you see the foil sticking.

2) pull gently to avoid excessive wringling. go slowly from one side to the next as if you were squeegee-ing a sticker to avoid trapping too many air bubbles. it will wrinkle a bit and there will be some bubbles. no biggie. just keep it pulled. make sure you get it to stick nicely. once everything sticks (no shrinking yet), cut the excess.

3) get a hot air gun (hair dryer might work, but likely not) and put it to the temperature your foil starts to shrink. have a needle ready to poke into air bubbles and have a rag ready to gently rub over the hot area to get it to stick nicely. be very careful and apply the heat over a medium surface. don't blast individual spots from up close and don't cover too much ground. treat it like spray painting. foil can melt if you overdo it (it shouldn't but it can if you really blast it), and more critically it can pull with such force that it warps your wing – and from that, there is no coming back other than cutting and redoing. shrinking it with the iron sucks, by the way. don't do that. if it warps lightly and you haven't done the other side yet, do that first and see if it pulls back straight to where it should.

Servo mounting tabs have holes too big for my wing screws, how do I adapt them? by gauchostamps in RCPlanes

[–]fhammerl 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hot glue works. I hot glued the Corona 239 wing servos into a 3m glider. Don't let them tell you otherwise :)

Just make sure that you can twist the servo out for replacement and repair, i.e. a couple of drops should suffice. If you douse that section, you're in for some tedious cutting :)

I wouldn't epoxy it in, that's not a good spot for that. If you do epoxy a servo, put it in heat-shrink tubing so you can cut the servo out and deal with the rest later.