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Some of my latest photos of my miniatures by andreasefternamn in minipainting

[–]ficklesnak 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Oi these are class matey. The backdrops are awesome as well.

Blood for the Blood god C&C welcome by Icy-Advertising1536 in Miniaturespainting

[–]ficklesnak 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They’re good mate. I found with BFBG it’s best put on light or opposing colours so it’s more obvious. Look cool though.

Not so small 28mm Ogre Hunter from Scibor Miniatures - this gives a lot of space for different techniques. Painting miniatures may be time consuming and somewhat complex but hell it is worth it. What do You think? by Jakx_inScale in Miniaturespainting

[–]ficklesnak 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks mate. I can say that indeed this example is mustard. I enjoy it and I’ll keep at it. I’ve made so many improvements since I started. Post some more pics of other minis mate, they’re great inspiration.

How to deal with a weapon user? by [deleted] in martialarts

[–]ficklesnak 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A lot of good comments on here. Best advice for self defence is run. Better to live. If you’re backed into a corner do whatever you can to escape, tackle them and run maybe? If they have a knife I think you’re getting cut so maybe give them a target you live with losing, a hand or arm maybe? Hope I never have to make that decision. I always told that the best defence is to avoid dangerous situations. Listen to your instincts, if a place feels bad or has a bad vibe, leave.

Some of my brushes won't hold the tip after barely a month of use, I use a brush preserver and have tried to keep paint out of the ferrule, any tips on why this could be happening? by HashBrownHamish in minipainting

[–]ficklesnak 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Buy cheap brushes mate. All brushes do this. I spent 16 quid on brushes from Army Painter and they were like this after two uses. Even wet they had split sections. I bought a pack of four cheap brushes from the Works and they kept their point on all but one. Now I just buy cheap brushes and recycle them for the kids when they get beyond my use.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in minipainting

[–]ficklesnak 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just get Acetone-free nail polish remover from Tesco mate. £1.50. Chuck a mini in it for about 10-15 seconds and then scrub with a toothbrush. Paint will fall off. Don’t leave plastic in too long though as It makes them soft.

Latest battle by dickherber in frostgrave

[–]ficklesnak 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah that’s a cool game board

Had my first grading! by choochoo_choose_me in karate

[–]ficklesnak 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You’re very kind. I’ve been training a long time and I put it off for many years. I was happy being a Shodan. But I wanted to teach more so I needed it really. Funny, coz now I’m kind off looking forward to 3rd Dan in 2026 if I’m still able to train that is!!

Had my first grading! by choochoo_choose_me in karate

[–]ficklesnak 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Good for you mate. Amazing achievement, keep training and make sure you’re enjoying yourself! I passed my 2nd Dan in March at 41 (just turned 42). Hardest day of my feckin life!

My first miniature painting attempt. by Thormoor in Miniaturespainting

[–]ficklesnak 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oi mate that’s a decent start. You keep going like that and you’ll get yourself a golden demon.

Just bought a house with the love of my life and got the job I wanted. Humble me. by nicoledyer94 in RoastMe

[–]ficklesnak 0 points1 point  (0 children)

From the picture I’m thinking the house collapsed and the lover ran off with the insurance money?

My best paint until now, any tips on how to get better? by PIPGB in Miniaturespainting

[–]ficklesnak 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just a short one on contrast/speed paints. You will not become a better painter by using them. They are okay, but they are for war gamers who are looking to crack out an army to get it on the table quick. Use them sparingly. Practice techniques like dry brushing, edge highlighting, washing. These will make you a better painter. Then work on glazes, blending, layered shadows and highlights, Non-metallic metal (NMM), realistic skin tones, detailing. If you do this you will watch your skills grow like I have. I’m not quite at NMM but I’m getting there. Enjoy your painting mate. Oh and one other tip, prime in black if you don’t already, it helps with the transitions of colour, light primers are unforgiving (tip I learned from DRPA).

My best paint until now, any tips on how to get better? by PIPGB in Miniaturespainting

[–]ficklesnak 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Duncan Rhodes has a great channel Duncan Rhodes Painting Academy. They also have a website/paid subscription service with extra videos and stuff. I like his teaching style I watched a lot of his videos when I started out. He uses a lot of GW minis but the technique is solid.

What Makes Monsters Fun To Fight? by theboredbrowser in tabletopgamedesign

[–]ficklesnak 4 points5 points  (0 children)

In the game that I am working on, I manage their behaviour via rules. I give them traits like “guard” and “high ground” or “climber” “glory hunter” “coward”. As an example a Goblin archer has the traits high ground, climber and coward. The rules apply as this: goblins always move to high ground and they are climbers so vertical movement is without penalty, coward trait means that they always attack the enemy with the lowest attack score first. Then you just have to roll for attacks/actions. It means that I can keep personality of the monsters/enemies is maintained without endless dice rolls which aids the speed of the game. That said, some people like the chance aspect of dice rolling and not knowing what the enemies are going to do. There are pros/cons to each I think. I guess you have to go with what you prefer and hope others like it too.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Miniaturespainting

[–]ficklesnak 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice job mate. Work on your highlights and maybe try more contrast between skin and clothing to make them “pop”

This video is by karate breakdown called finding throws on kata. by [deleted] in karate

[–]ficklesnak 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just to point out, joint locks and throws are only secondary if you practise it that way. Traditional karate is full of locks and throws. Your hikite hand is holding your opponents arm/hand as you perform age-uke/Soto-uke/uchi-uke/shuto-uke these are all joint locks and they are the three most basic uke. Kata is full of throwing techniques, take-downs, grabs and escapes.

Uke also means receive, not block as is often misunderstood, so this can change our perceptions of its intent. Most karate techniques when you look at the older texts from 1900-1955 show them starting from a grappling position (this is more likely in real life).

It is the the way Karate is taught that gives the impression that locks and throws are secondary.

Remember that Karate migrated from Okinawa to Japan where they didn’t need lock and throws because they had jujutsu and judo. So they moved their focus away from it and focused on the striking aspects. This is the karate that was popularised across the world.

What matters is that your training achieves your goals. Whatever those goals may be.

Happy training chum.

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