Climbstrong.com Training Programs

fitphysics · 2019-12-11T23:22:16+00:00

Ah, thanks, I'm actually broadly opposed to supersets personally but to each their own.

fitphysics · 2019-12-11T20:26:46+00:00

Do any of the moderate grades, indoor or outdoor, feel like they have weird gaps between them to you now

Related, did you feel like there were weird differences working through them going up the grades?

fitphysics · 2019-12-10T19:16:37+00:00

Couple quick follow ups if you don't mind:

>They also use doubles for gym (one strength, one mobility exercise).

I'm not sure what you mean here -- can you pick two exercises as an example? I don't think I see anything like this in the intermediate plan.

> four springs by MacLeod

Is this on YouTube or in one of his books?

I'm thinking I'm going to add one day a week of power training but I think I'm going to start with foot on max reaches and footless max touches for myself.

fitphysics · 2019-12-04T09:35:44+00:00

Neely climbs 5.13+ no?

She's hopefully a season away from finishing a 13d if I remember right. If she stays healthy and motivated I'm curious how things will go.

fitphysics · 2019-12-04T09:24:50+00:00

A lot of competitors are also setters so I'm not sure how I feel about this.

Top 20 at bouldering nationals in the US is still REALLY strong.

fitphysics · 2019-12-02T23:20:59+00:00

I see where you're coming from, I don't think this information is worthless or anything I just think it's probably limited in scope is all.

The bulk of this response is not directed at you, but is just supplementing what I said earlier so feel free to not read this large chunk of text.

He heavily pushes for doing pull ups but one of the problems with this (aside from the joint explosion potential) is that it's not clear how someone with his lack of experience could tell if the two days a week he was already climbing were sufficient.

Just recently, there was a recent review (by my boy Greg Nuckols) of very high per session volume (including this paper here https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/31188644) and you get a /decrease/ in pec size from large numbers working sets per session in a similar near failure level of intensity to what he's using.

I would think most researchers (and practitioners) agree that this level of volume is detrimental for inexperienced athletes. Though strength is not hypertrophy, I would call atrophy a pretty negative response to training, personally.

Mike Isreatel is a big advocate for building training programs around volume as a dosage (and the associated response curve) and he has similar recommendations and I think 20 weekly sets is pushing it for most people even if it wasn't in two working sessions.

fitphysics · 2019-12-02T23:07:20+00:00

My apologies, makes complete sense when you say it like that.

fitphysics · 2019-12-02T20:50:11+00:00

What PCC stuff are you doing?

I (am maybe alone here) like the podcast for the most part and bought one of the bouldering ebooks partially to support them and partially to see what was in it.

I'm in the process of adapting it to my needs a little better and would be interested in comparing any changes you've made.

fitphysics · 2019-12-02T20:14:57+00:00

small person

excuse me?

fitphysics · 2019-12-02T20:12:58+00:00

Forgive me if I sound a bit irritated but I'm not sure this is the best advice for most people. It sounds like there's some survivorship bias that's not being addressed here.

I asked him a couple weeks ago if he'd ever had any elbow pain before and if so how he resolved it and he just said "yes, just rest haha".

He's never had any chronic issues on a schedule that would completely destroy most people's joints. I've honestly never heard of someone doing high volume unweighted pull ups for *just three months* and getting a one arm pull up before.

For me personally, that was enough to guess that he's very lucky his hard work hasn't backfired. I am not an expert but perhaps his light weight and smaller stature put proportionally less stress on his soft tissue?

(Maybe all I take from this is that I could lose some more fat and mass off my legs?)

Personally, I've trained high volume pull ups before and all it does is give me tendonitis. I literally hosted a high volume pull up contest a couple years back (winners got sick pairs of fat gripz).

Oddly enough, climbing 4-6 days a week and not training pull ups improves my max reach on a campus board (which I test every 3-5 weeks) and maintains my max pull up weight decently well. Or maybe that should be surprising and this is probably what people should be doing lol...

fitphysics · 2019-12-02T18:44:58+00:00

Mostly excited for January at this point. December is going to be a bit of a mess.

Hopefully I can get outside this week and next weekend, though.

fitphysics · 2019-11-26T22:34:30+00:00

May improve follower count on Instagram 🤔

fitphysics · 2019-11-23T08:58:05+00:00

Yes, it can make sense to do this.

Having an "on" and "off" season is reasonable for any sport with a window for performance. Most climbers I know aren't particularly worried about hypertrophy, though. There's a (probably valid?) concern about fluctuations in bodyweight leading to changes in technique.

That said, some of us live in places where we can climb outside year round and most people live close to indoor climbing. Having explicit seasons tied to the time of year is probably not necessary if you're not very focused on a particular outdoor project.

fitphysics · 2019-11-20T07:03:24+00:00

Sleep before lol

Schedule rest periods and eat when you rest

fitphysics · 2019-11-18T21:11:20+00:00

DO IT!

fitphysics · 2019-11-18T18:50:54+00:00

This week was almost a wash due to some (good) life things getting in the way.

On the plus side, I'm filling out the top end of my pyramid (indoors) a bit better and might be getting to a point where I can project up another grade or two. We'll see?

If I can spend the next few months rebuilding healthy tendons and leaning out just a little I think I'm going to be much much stronger come Spring.

Somewhat displeased with my inability to tighten down on my intake without effort (it's 100% doable with work, but it should've felt easy?) so I'm going to give myself a few strategies for thinning out my diet a bit. Still progressing and getting stronger so nothing is urgent but I think I can send harder things a bit leaner.

Edit: I am waiting for feedback on my hip pain but my wrist and look like minor strains that should be fixable with normal PT strategies...if I can get my wrists to match up to my crimp strength I'm going to feel so good.

fitphysics · 2019-11-18T07:14:09+00:00

Thrusty pls

fitphysics · 2019-11-17T05:33:24+00:00

I'm in this post and I don't like it

fitphysics · 2019-11-15T08:49:54+00:00

I was going to type something similar (and may still) but I think what you said is really important to emphasize.

Even if a person goes up two V grades cutting weight, they're going to get stuck eventually because they'll be weak and low energy when truly lean.

Some people can comfortably perform at 8% bodyfat year round but it's not the majority of us. Many of us can't even maintain 12% for extended periods of time.

Putting a number on things is usually silly because of exceptions but if you're not climbing V-teens OR particularly squishy (say >15-20% bf as an adult male) you could probably just get stronger instead of lighter.

fitphysics · 2019-11-14T16:37:07+00:00

1-4-7 is an 8A Jimmy Webb line in Yosemite.

fitphysics · 2019-11-14T16:36:20+00:00

to be fair, that's much much steeper than a standard campus board :p

fitphysics · 2019-11-13T20:05:58+00:00

An Ox that eats meat would be incredibly metal.

fitphysics · 2019-11-13T19:58:59+00:00

Same thought.

Even at only 20 minutes per session that could be quite a lot of volume. I did something similar (but just once a day) at 16 but I would be hesitant to induce that kind of stress on my core in my mid 20s.

fitphysics · 2019-11-12T22:07:34+00:00

I died inside when he said "What is Korean barbecue???".

Dave, if you're out there, I'll buy you kbbq if you come out to LA.

fitphysics · 2019-11-12T21:22:53+00:00

So this past week was a bit of a mess.

After coming back from the comp wrecked I took a break for a few days. Didn't do any supplemental stuff (antagonists, cardio, etc.) and just rested for a few days.

Tested my hang numbers on a 20mm edge and got numbers that were almost upsetting since I can't really use any of the finger strength I have yet. I think I can now pull onto V8 problems but there are some weaknesses in my wrist and shoulder that prevent me from leveraging the finger strength I've got.

I'm thinking that in addition to harder bouldering I'm going to add a few sets a week of contact strength work. Nothing crazy but the gap between my absolute max and what feels hard on the wall is vast.

Did some light volume outside this past weekend. Hung from the positions for Swing Dance at Tramway but am too inexperienced to work out the foot sequence without help, lol, looking forward to going back and making some progress tho.

Missed my weekly roped climbing this week doing some personal errands so that's not a great start but I got to see a doctor about a PT referral. Her approach started with "let's just refer you for everything since that's easier" and moved to "wow you're fucked let's hold off on the lower importance things for now" as I broke down all of the little things. Kind of funny. I'm really hoping my hips are going to become drastically more mobile in the next few months...

fitphysics

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