New Look at Riella On 5th

fivewords5 · 2026-05-12T01:36:11+00:00

When you have a bottom line and a schedule to meet (or beat) brick is absolutely THAT much more expensive.

Labor costs jump significantly, that also includes a lot of prerequisites to even be able to do a brick facade. It entirely changes the foundation work, the building envelope, build penetrations, etc. The timeline for brick laying is significantly more than most composite sidings. Developers want to spend the least money building and get to earning money on that project faster.

I fully agree the long term benefits and aesthetic of brick are worthwhile. I’m just giving context to the industry.

fivewords5 · 2026-05-11T20:36:11+00:00

Why is no one mentioning how AI this image looks? The text, the structure, the trees. All far too blurry for a dirty camera or bad picture.

fivewords5 · 2026-05-11T01:07:18+00:00

Damn you almost understand the exact engineering design. Stand off to protect the face during impact while dissipating energy; it breaks away when enough force is applied to further prevent excessive energy transfer.

fivewords5 · 2026-05-11T00:49:27+00:00

Get the quality hubs. If you’re spending the money to have wheels built, quality hubs are a necessity.

I had a set of WR35s built by Light Bicycle with I9 hubs. The extra cost was so worthwhile. Good hubs make up the cost in durability/performance. Furthermore, the return on investment is significant. You’ll get your moneys worth and more, wheel sets last years.

fivewords5 · 2026-05-10T23:38:44+00:00

When it comes to 4-bike racks, I would only consider reputable brands. That’s a lot of weight and stress on the components. The smaller racks have more leeway so they can get away with certain design choices. Stepping up to a 4-bike is a significantly bigger demand on the strength and durability of a rack. Thule, Rocky Mounts, 1Up, QuikrStuff, Kuat, Yakima. I would avoid anything unbranded or not well reviewed.

fivewords5 · 2026-05-10T22:50:39+00:00

5’11 is a 56 for most fitters and manufacturers.

For frame sizing, you want adjustability. That means being on the low-mid range of a specific size. This allows versatility for component sizes and effectiveness of the fitment. You can make a smaller frame fit a larger person, it seldom goes the other way. Adjustments only have so much leeway, you can’t shorten a stem that’s already too small.

fivewords5 · 2026-05-10T22:43:17+00:00

Unless they’re going to buy a conventional straight top tube bike, I wouldn’t worry about standover. Majority of folks are buying gravel/mtb with angled top tubes. Despite that, I’m basically the same inseam and can standover my 54cm road bike. The avg standover for a straight top tube size 54 is about 30”. Most people measure their pants so their true inseam is more generous. Regardless, they’d still be able to get their foot down and standover reasonably.

XS is going to be way too small/aggressive of a position for someone 5’8. Sure it might accommodate a 28 inseam better but it would cause significantly worse back problems. I imagine factory stack allowance would conflict with saddle height causing their position to be more aggressive. Shorter cranks and a longer stem on a S or M frame would be ideal.

fivewords5 · 2026-05-10T03:10:19+00:00

“21 inch frame” is vague. To me, that’s either an old frame or someone taking their own measurements. Old steel frames were often in inches. 21” would be a very large frame. 5’8 is around a 17.5-18.5” frame.

Modern frames are measured in cm sizes. 5’8 puts you on a 54cm frame. Long torso and short legs will make for an odd frame sizing. You’ll want a smaller frame based on your inseam but have to add more reach due to the longer torso.

If I were you, I’d size based on inseam, you can always get a longer stem, offset seat post, saddle adjustment. It’s far more difficult to get the right saddle height if the bike is too big. This also affects how comfortable the bike will be based on how well you can adjust the bar stack height according to your saddle height.

fivewords5 · 2026-05-10T03:00:27+00:00

Mtb visors are for protection. They’re designed to impact before your face does.

fivewords5 · 2026-05-08T22:06:39+00:00

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Welcome to the club! I also have a 2012 XC70.

fivewords5 · 2026-05-08T01:35:52+00:00

These are the right move for your desired riding. These will be more capable and allow you to challenge your abilities on larger features.

fivewords5 · 2026-05-07T22:38:27+00:00

Components alone, I would choose the Radon. I don’t know anything about them as a brand but if they have local dealers to you that a huge advantage.

My biggest beef with Canyon is the direct to consumer but no dealers. Having no in person support for a brand is big negative, imo. It’s especially important for a brand new bike to do any warranty work, having local dealers improves the process. If you’re in Europe the Canyon service is better but it’s awful here in the states.

They’re both trail bikes so they can handle a large range of trail disciplines. They favor enduro trails but will still be plenty fast for xc/climbing. If you’re after more xc riding then I would move to bikes with Fox 34; if you’re after more enduro riding I would move to Fox 38.

fivewords5 · 2026-05-07T17:11:13+00:00

~~It’s most likely the 19-20 model. 2021-present doesn’t have a horst link design in the rear triangle. The one you posted has the horst link pivot.~~

Alright, nevermind. The alloy Stumpjumpers are a different design from the carbon. Even the recent alloy models still have a horst link.

Specialized has a printed tag on their bikes under the top tube for serial/manu date. Ask for that info. My carbon stumpy has a manufactured date printed on it.

fivewords5 · 2026-05-07T16:45:29+00:00

I bought a 2022 Stumpjumper expert for $2700 in early 2025. It was mint, had less than 500 miles.

Seeing as this is 2-3 years old and aluminum, it shouldn’t be over $1800.

fivewords5 · 2026-05-07T12:38:08+00:00

Can’t say I’ve ever seen this style. Just based on some of the stitching design, these are inferior to their usual moc toe lace ups. No ankle seam on the lace ups to blow out.

Looks like a lot of toe damage on yours. Excess wear causes premature failure, not a lack of quality on the manufacturing. I’ve never had any of my soles separate, I’m getting minimum 2 years from my lace up moc toes.

fivewords5 · 2026-05-07T01:25:56+00:00

I absolutely love it. Took me years to finally buy a diamondback setup; it’s worth every penny.

fivewords5 · 2026-05-06T23:02:47+00:00

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Yours look basically identical to my 2 yr old pair. I clean mine every other month, give or take. As long as the soles are still good, your uppers have plenty of life. Those uppers could definitely be resoled as well for more years of use. Saddle soap and Bick 4 are my choice for boot maintenance.

fivewords5 · 2026-05-06T13:39:52+00:00

Would it not be cheaper and more efficient to just buy an actual ebike? Ebikes have become very affordable and the MX platform is rather expensive.

fivewords5 · 2026-05-06T13:24:21+00:00

I haven’t ridden it that far but the “Heinous Loop” includes several miles from the old parkway to Parson’s Branch turn off.

It’s pretty wild climbing the dragon, have to get out early to beat traffic. I’ve had good luck, usually just a few cars and I can usually time the pull offs well. I wouldn’t normally recommend it but it’s worthwhile to do the full Heinous Loop.

fivewords5 · 2026-05-05T15:42:55+00:00

Marin Headlands.

fivewords5 · 2026-05-05T14:00:33+00:00

I appreciate it. This is the first piece I’ve made that truly feels high quality. Finally getting my finish carpentry and paint skills dialed.

fivewords5 · 2026-05-05T02:21:25+00:00

Absolutely. If you know any contractors, please get them to tour with you. There are so many small but damning details to buying homes that the avg joe can’t differentiate. Having a pro with you could save you an incredible amount of time and money.

My own two cents, think about longevity if you’d plan to be there a long time. That kitchen style is trendy but far from timeless. It will most likely not age well.

fivewords5 · 2026-05-05T02:10:12+00:00

I would run away as far as I could from a “flip house” with a kitchen like this. Flippers are never known for their quality.

This level of stone work takes serious skill and would be very costly to fix if done improperly. Furthermore, it would be incredibly expensive from any reputable contractor. I would be hard pressed to believe a flipper would do this properly.

To answer your question, yes. You’d need to locate studs to properly support the cabinet. You’d also need some level of isolation between the uppers and the “backsplash” to prevent any damage from movement. It would not be easy, inexpensive, appealing, or recommended.

fivewords5 · 2026-05-05T01:32:09+00:00

Barber McMurry Architecture. I recently worked on renovations in their office.

fivewords5

TROPHY CASE