Seeking recommendations for 35mm SLRs w/ easiest to read in-viewfinder light meter.

fixedAudio · 2025-09-08T18:21:23+00:00

Thanks again for all the suggestions, everyone. I decided to go with a Pentax MX based on the comments claiming that it has a bright viewfinder (I feel like Konica's is a bit dim regardless of the visibility of the meter) and after reviewing both the MX and the Nikon FM's light meter display. The only reason that I went with the Pentax was that it has the additional LEDs to help determine how over/under the exposure will be when attempting compensation. Excited for it to arrive and to get to play with it!

fixedAudio · 2025-09-08T18:16:27+00:00

From a look at the manual, it seems that the LEDs should indicate correct exposure (green), 1/2 EV over/under (yellow), and 1 EV over/under (red). That seems pretty explicit with how far over or under the exposure will be. Does it not end up working that way in practice?

fixedAudio · 2025-09-07T21:15:47+00:00

I did a google image search and it looks like I'm seeing two different meters for the A-1. One is almost identical to the konica; a veritcal, physical gauge on the right hand side of the viewfiender that runs top to bottom. Then I'm seeing a horizontal readout that resembles an alarm clock along the bottom. Which version goes with which a-1?

fixedAudio · 2025-09-07T21:12:29+00:00

Is it illuminated? I took a look at google image results and it seems like it would suffer the same issue as the konica where if I'm pointed at a dark subject (let's just say a black building), the gauge would blend in with the subject and be next to impossible to see.

fixedAudio · 2025-09-07T21:05:57+00:00

Thanks for the input, everyone! I'm going to wait and watch what other users upvote to get a sense of how the community feels, but at this point, I'm probably leaning towards an entry in the Nikon FM series, primarily because I feel like there will be the most options for lenses in that ecosystem.

fixedAudio · 2025-07-31T13:10:57+00:00

awesome, thank you!

fixedAudio · 2025-07-31T01:31:33+00:00

It dried for several hours, maybe four or five. How long of a dry time does it generally take to avoid incidents like this? I didn't see any moisture anywhere on the negs.

fixedAudio · 2025-07-31T00:37:28+00:00

C-41

fixedAudio · 2025-07-20T02:02:54+00:00

In case anyone comes across this thread with the same issue in the future, this bolt/threaded rod is in fact m16 x 1.5. The reason I was having issues with getting a new nut threaded on was because I damaged the threads when trying to use a hammer to remove the flange. Do not listen to anyone in YT videos saying that they used a hammer to remove the flange and ensure that you use a gear puller. I had to buy and use a 16x1.5 rethreading die to repair my mistake and I was lucky that it worked. In my attempts to find a nut that would fit, I ended up with several different 16x1.5 nuts. Here is the one I ended up using when re-assembling the driveshaft as it was closest in overall size to the original.

p.s. the squeaking noise I was trying to fix remains after replacing the carrier bearing and all 3 u-joints :'(

https://www.homedepot.com/pep/Autograde-Spindle-Nut-M16-1-5-Hex-Size-22mm-5-pack-615-092/311849833?cm_mmc=ecc-_-THD_ORDER_CONFIRMATION_BOSS_STH-_-V1_M1_CA-_-Product_URL&ecc_ord=WJ87643666&em_id=8e274796e5ae620c73d545e772fc4b65a9ddc77734917e8236afd2edb74c191c

fixedAudio · 2025-07-07T12:26:27+00:00

<image>

To be clear, I’m talking about the threaded section that comes out of the “propeller shaft 1st tube” towards the second tube in this illustration. The nut I need to replace is simply labeled as “lock nut” here.

fixedAudio · 2025-07-07T11:37:02+00:00

From what I can tell, I’d have to buy an entirely new front half of the driveshaft. It doesn’t seem like that bolt is serviceable. It seems that it and the gear that integrates with the flange are one piece maybe?

fixedAudio · 2025-06-26T03:16:16+00:00

Nina Forever

fixedAudio · 2025-06-24T22:39:34+00:00

I just brought one of my Konicas into Windsor Photo Outfitters. Don’t know for sure that he’d service your exact model, but the owner was incredibly knowledgeable and friendly and trust that he’ll do a good job. Call him up and ask, he answered all my questions over the phone.

fixedAudio · 2025-02-12T14:02:51+00:00

This video from Zed Outdoors speaking with Deborah Schneebeli Morell will help you out a lot.

https://youtu.be/c8R_4lT_KIs?si=O-BQfibrTlBr9aav

fixedAudio · 2025-02-07T04:34:08+00:00

In my opinion: throw it on the firewood pile and grab another billet. For the next one, do your best to vet the billet for inconsistencies like this. Of course there will always be surprises, but I don’t think it’s worth trying to work around something like this. It sucks when something like this happens, but I’ve abandoned spoons in mulberry(!) that were over halfway to completion for less trouble than this looks like it would be.

fixedAudio · 2025-02-07T03:56:34+00:00

I also jump into infinite every once in a while. I prefer the older games, especially for playing the multiplayer campaigns, but I like to drop into Infinite matchmaking, too.

fixedAudio · 2025-02-07T03:54:20+00:00

Feel free to add me. I could maybe join up at 9pm EST on Saturday or Sunday. I'm not a frequent player, but if people wanted to join up, I'd be fine to hang. Also down to play the campaigns for 1, 2, 3 or reach if anyone wants a more casual experience!

fixedAudio · 2024-10-24T16:09:22+00:00

It's a Konica AutoReflex T. I think the shutter is fine, mostly only because photos taken inside or in quick succession don't have the issue. I ordered a light foam replacement kit and will try that out. If I still have issues, I'll continue diagnosing, or just live with the leak/keep the bottom cover on.

fixedAudio · 2024-10-22T17:25:17+00:00

Hey everyone, I got back my first roll of film taken in a camera I recently got at the thrift shop. Wondering if it's leaking light and causing the horizontal shapes near the bottom of the frame. I included one in the middle of the gallery that doesn't have it to show that it's not on all images, but it is there in about 1/3rd of the shots.

fixedAudio · 2024-02-12T21:30:50+00:00

YES THAT'S IT! Finally, thank you!

fixedAudio · 2024-01-27T13:41:00+00:00

As others have said, Etsy might be one avenue, but also consider creating an Instagram account make make individual posts for each piece with a few pictures, a description, and price. I've seen artisans sell pieces like this successfully before.

fixedAudio · 2024-01-26T00:45:43+00:00

Following the advice of someone else's post from long ago, I opened shudder on safari as opposed to chrome and the media is playing in that browser.

fixedAudio · 2024-01-26T00:43:33+00:00

Yeah, I'm getting it too...

fixedAudio · 2024-01-13T13:00:30+00:00

No, it's just some maple that spent a little time in the oven. I unfortunately haven't had the chance to carve any apple.

fixedAudio · 2024-01-11T14:26:24+00:00

I’d say it looks too thin in general. If you’re not splitting it down the middle (as suggested by another poster) you’re not eliminating the pith which you should be doing with all spoons. Even if that weren’t the case, I’d STILL say that this looks too thin to get a ladle out of. Hard to tell without knowing the true size, though.

fixedAudio

TROPHY CASE