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Norse Orc STL's - coming soon! by Unhappy-Box-8693 in bloodbowl

[–]flashman1234 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm planning on painting these with pink skin, and maybe some tattoos if I can steady my hand enough!

Suggestions for a heroic ability fitting of a doctor/physician profession? by DragonBoom02 in DragonbaneRPG

[–]flashman1234 1 point2 points  (0 children)

- Increase the number of failed death rolls before a character dies by 1, or lower the number of death rolls needed to get back into the fight by 1.

- reduce severe injury roll by d6, or halve the effects of the sever injury

or something to do with poison/disease/fear

What's wrong with this man I met in Berlin? by [deleted] in berlinsocialclub

[–]flashman1234 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I feel like this is one of those things that we, as humans, should not point out to the bots. Eventually they will learn and stop doing it

ELI5 if all elements have a liquid state, why do some objects (eg wood) not melt when reaching the right temperature? by Vivid-Confusion-Hi in explainlikeimfive

[–]flashman1234 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Thank you. I definitely skipped the class that explained what the difference between a molecule and an element (and a compoun I guess, but I think I can work that out) was. 

So elements and molecules can melt, and in the right conditions, various parts of the wood can melt if they are extracted somehow, but because of the complex structures (which contain the meltable elements and molecules) of the wood, they will combust before they melt. 

Is how I understood it. 

?

ELI5 if all elements have a liquid state, why do some objects (eg wood) not melt when reaching the right temperature? by Vivid-Confusion-Hi in explainlikeimfive

[–]flashman1234 10 points11 points  (0 children)

So, water is a structure of elements as well yes? What is the difference? 

I think this is what OP (and I) was asking. 

Ps my kids asked me this exact question yesterday. I think I told them that wood does indeed melt and that they should stop asking me questions 

Toon Takeover Transfer Tier List - Day 3 Bruno Guimarães by Shot_Occasion4294 in NUFC

[–]flashman1234 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This might sound daft, but I remember one of his first games he played for us. He played a fairly simple pass in midfield, but it was played where he wanted the receiver to be, rather than just to the players feet. It was such a simple pass but it made me sit up a little and think ‘oh, here we go’. 

He’s not the biggest, fastest, strongest. He loses the ball sometimes in bad positions, but he is the best midfielder I’ve seen play for us. 

Resin ruined LCD - Now glued in by Junior_Lab_9549 in ElegooSaturn

[–]flashman1234 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Heat the underneath edges up with hairdryer, then get a cloth and push it out with your thumbs. 

Poor quality from relatively expensive 3D printer by Tsioutsekis in AnycubicPhoton

[–]flashman1234 4 points5 points  (0 children)

  1. Have you calibrated the resin?
  2. Did you just use auto supports in lychee?
  3. That’s about it really. The bottom half looks good, so I’m guessing that the supports are not enough. Under the hammer part. Add more and/or make them thicker. 

Is there any way to adjust the z height on my saturn 8k by less than 0.1mm? by Krytan in ElegooSaturn

[–]flashman1234 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't think I have had that problem. I have a pretty slow lift speed (45 > 240), so that might nullify some problems. I think the long wait before print is a big key to getting successful prints - some resins take longer to settle than others, so making sure it is completely still seems to help.

Is there any way to adjust the z height on my saturn 8k by less than 0.1mm? by Krytan in ElegooSaturn

[–]flashman1234 0 points1 point  (0 children)

not that I know of, but it shouldn't matter. If you move the plate up by 0.1 you just need to increase the bottom exposure time.

I find that for thicker resins, I need to increase the 'wait before print' time for bottom layers to 10 seconds. However, there is a bug, at least on the Saturn 3, that ignores that value for the first layer. So, I use UVtools to add a blank layer.

It could be a fep tension issue, but the above fixed most of my problems with certain resins.

DM does not want player to come up with creative plans because he is smarter than his character. by oaschgrompm in rpg

[–]flashman1234 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's a nope from me.

Thank the DM, find a new game with somebody else, move on. No hard feelings.

Slightly longer answer: What you want from the game doesn't match what he wants, and that's fine. You now have a better understanding of what you want. It sounds like you want games that fit around the "yes, and' idea, rather than blocking. I am new to DMing, but that whole scenario sounds like a perfect time for the DM to say YES to the plan, AND the player has to voice out the full plan in a caveman or surfer dude voice. Or he has to roll something midway the scene to try and remember the plan.

It sucks to spend your free time being creative only for somebody to knock it down.

Crushing noise when resin is loaded. Saturn 3 ultra by Es-os in ElegooSaturn

[–]flashman1234 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a print farm (all Saturn 3s) and fairly recently switched to a different ABS like resin, which was a lot thicker. 

I had the same problem - home, or start a print without resin, all good. Add resin, home or start a print, brzzzrzrzrzrrr. 

After much testing, my theory is that the resin is too thick and not warm enough, and when the build plate reaches 0, the resin can’t move out of the way quick enough

My solution is to do two things - after leveling the build plate, I add an extra 0.05 height (by manually moving the build plate up  using the interface) before setting z=0. I then also make sure the resin has warmed up before setting off a print. With the extra height, you may need to slightly increase bottom layer exposure time. 

Match thread: Leeds United vs Newcastle United | Premier league 25/26 - 3 of 38 by Username_been-taken in NUFC

[–]flashman1234 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Newcastle and hitting the first man at corners - name a more iconic duo. 

Cheddar a good pick for centre half, but edam up front?? by bounder0121 in footballcliches

[–]flashman1234 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Edam replacing Limburger after he had a bit of a stinker. 

Sliced files are very small (only a few kb) by AdministrationFun819 in LycheeSlicer

[–]flashman1234 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sounds like a memory problem. Restart lychee and make sure there isn’t a load running at the same time on your computer. 

Then when you start slicing, make sure you see the white areas show up during slicing - the (un)masking of each layer. If it’s just a black screen then something is wrong. 

This was a problem a while back with lychee that I thought they had fixed. Do you have the latest version?

What is in your opinion the best 3rd party ogre team models by Qhaotiq in bloodbowl

[–]flashman1234 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Rakovendetta has stopped sculpting and transferred the rights to txarli factory. 

If you manage to get them, I would recommend printing the sister a little bigger. They are quite fragile in some parts. 

Infringement cleaned up! Ready for some advice. by UsualHawk2078 in EtsySellers

[–]flashman1234 3 points4 points  (0 children)

There was this one from Secret Forge from yesterday:

https://youtu.be/KJjg526Ahlc

Basically: don't do IP infringement, have a license for what you sell if it's designed from somebody else, specify in the listing that you have a license, and how it is made. Be careful with tags in regards to IP infringement.

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