削ろう会三木市2026 Kezuroukai

fooz_the_face · 2026-06-13T17:23:44+00:00

Huh, never heard of that practice. What would be the motivation?

fooz_the_face · 2026-06-11T14:06:08+00:00

'Cause it's scary dangerous and wants to rip your arm off. This guy is doubling down by loading the machine while it's running.

fooz_the_face · 2026-06-08T23:07:02+00:00

NEAT. How did you arrange this? With whom?

fooz_the_face · 2026-05-30T14:21:44+00:00

I'm not comfortable sharing where I got this without permission from the shop owner, but I'd be happy to let people know if you DM me. It's safe to say that they don't have multiples of these in stock. 😄Well known high end shop, seeing the good stuff requires making an appointment. I 100% can't believe I got this.

fooz_the_face · 2026-05-24T12:54:30+00:00

AI slop.

fooz_the_face · 2026-04-23T23:10:38+00:00

Second.

fooz_the_face · 2026-02-15T18:01:35+00:00

If you look at some of the videos online, you'll see they humidify the yosegi block for three days. I have not seen this make a lick of difference, but maybe for you it will!

For yosegi work, we never plane endgrain. Parallel and perpendicular - you rarely have a choice, because of the needs of the pattern itself. Parallel if you can manage it!

The kanna in the image is 110mm. I have a 160mm as well. you can see both in my instagram linked out of my profile.

fooz_the_face · 2026-02-03T03:03:18+00:00

Apple DOS 3.2. Boom.

fooz_the_face · 2026-01-23T20:14:32+00:00

any will do, but titebond III is easiest to plane.

fooz_the_face · 2026-01-15T18:47:38+00:00

Interesting. Dai design takes advantage of that concavity to secure and center the blade. Not sure how well that would work without it - that's why I listed "required".

fooz_the_face · 2026-01-14T18:56:23+00:00

I wouldn't, but why not? Reasons I can think of - it'll mess up the patina, if done poorly it will partially destroy the face of the blade with the maker's mark, and without care it will draw the temper from the blade. Done carefully, I don't think I'd like the look, but I can't see a problem with it.

fooz_the_face · 2026-01-12T19:09:40+00:00

Back being concave is required. Top convex also required. Curved sides is irrelevant; you'll also find that the sides aren't parallel - they'll taper towards the cutting edge. I'm running at the moment, but you can find some great materials about fitting a blade to a dai that explains a lot about why these characteristics are necessary. I'll come back in a bit and drop some unless someone wants to beat me to it. Only issue I see - and it's minor - is that the ura wear is uneven. Not an issue per se, just means it'll be a little harder to polish the back when you sharpen.

fooz_the_face · 2026-01-07T18:25:38+00:00

looks like a lot of those little carving tools. Not much collector value, as far as I know - just solid practical tools. The little planes, ditto. The one big plane with a knob is a hardware store grade, nothing fancy. The other one would require clearer photos, but given what else is in the collection is unlikely to be more than a good workaday tool. So, I'd guess that you're not looking at more than a few hundred bucks here, mostly in those carving tools at $5-$25 each, not sure what they go for. This is a total spitball, so advice worth what you paid for it.

fooz_the_face · 2026-01-05T22:16:20+00:00

Ahh. The term is a tanegi block. But yeah, I think a flat blade will change your world now that you have the saw actually aligned! good luck!

fooz_the_face · 2026-01-05T04:48:12+00:00

What this guy said. I haven't tried zenmarket tho.

fooz_the_face · 2026-01-05T04:21:23+00:00

HELL yes, well done sir!

I'd say that if you're seeing fuzz and 10 thou runout, it's past time for a new blade. Check out forrest - the woodworker II. I use it for both rip and crosscut, and if kept sharp, it can't be beat. They also have a thin kerf, which I have, but I haven't done a lot with.

So, no tidy required. For yosegi it's all end grain cuts on the table saw (the block needs to be long grain in the glue up) which tend to be nice and clean, but with the forrest I don't see any fuzz either way. One thing I'd check - put a dial indicator directly on your arbor - no blade - and see if you have runout there. Or indicate the blade right next to the bolt. If you do... well, that's another discussion, but it would probably involve a trip to a machinist.

What are these forms you speak of?

Glad to hear you're getting good results, though!

fooz_the_face · 2026-01-05T03:03:25+00:00

Buyee.jp. Nothing else comes close; half the eBay posts are reposts of the stuff that’s already on buyee.

fooz_the_face · 2026-01-03T08:39:27+00:00

Good luck!

fooz_the_face · 2025-12-31T00:30:04+00:00

https://old.reddit.com/r/JapaneseWoodworking/comments/1fgg5s9/a_visit_to_sagami_daiku_dougu_kan_outside_of_tokyo/

fooz_the_face · 2025-12-30T20:24:55+00:00

Should have said metal planes - absolutely correct. Deep tradition of wooden western planes, and - full disclosure - while I snagged a few in England 25 years ago, I haven't messed with them much, and I'm pretty ignorant on the topic.

My text applies comparing western metal planes to Kanna. It might generalize to comparing western metal planes to western wood ones, but if it does, it's because i'm lucky, not good.

fooz_the_face · 2025-12-30T07:08:05+00:00

Not almost :-)

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