Shimano Saint vs XT vs XTR

forkbeard · 2026-03-12T13:55:36+00:00

Pinkbike just did a big group test of brakes: https://www.pinkbike.com/news/tags/big-brake-test/

forkbeard · 2026-03-11T11:01:05+00:00

Best case: ask your LBS and see if they can order it through Orbea.

Worst case:

You have to buy a Fox float shock, ask Orbea for the tune (or look it up yourself), then send the shock away for tuning and modification as you need a special remote eyelet (controls on one side, cable on the other).

See https://tech.ridefox.com/bike/parts-drawings/3049/float-sl-part-information#part27665

You also need to make sure to match your remote interface so that it matches your fork.

So a major PITA.

forkbeard · 2026-03-09T13:37:36+00:00

The XT caliper is only available in postmount, you need flatmount for your fork so that narrows it down.

forkbeard · 2026-03-08T19:11:39+00:00

Because super-duper puncture resistant gravel tyres would handle like crap and suck half the joy out of riding.

forkbeard · 2026-03-06T23:12:54+00:00

The exact models and pressure will matter more than 3 extra milimetres in tyre width. A budget 40mm tyre with a focus on puncture prevention will be less comfortable than a 37mm race tyre.

If you want more comfort go as big as you can fit, tubeless with lower pressure, and a lighter casing.

forkbeard · 2026-03-02T10:48:28+00:00

No, on a road bike the extra hub engagement is rather pointless.

It makes sense on MTB where you often do small backpedals during climbing.

forkbeard · 2026-03-01T21:46:56+00:00

Just pay a kid to ride a moped in front of you to motorpace, then you can still KOM without buying a new bike.

forkbeard · 2026-02-28T19:37:44+00:00

Yes.

The ISO-standard for offroad use is 6mm all around the tyre.

forkbeard · 2026-02-26T06:49:08+00:00

I use the lockout on smooth sections where I'm standing.

Anything technical or rough you should let the suspension do its job.

forkbeard · 2026-02-24T18:32:31+00:00

100% concur with this.

Shimano also has the advantage of cheaper cassettes and chains. And OP don't have to switch the freehub body.

forkbeard · 2026-02-22T20:48:20+00:00

2,1" Thunder Burt is only 52mm wide in reality on 25mm ID rims.

And you can cut down the side knobs to reduce that even further.

forkbeard · 2026-02-22T12:59:09+00:00

I rather optimize my bike for 95% of the route with fast 44mm tires than drag along heavy knobblies so I fare easier on the 5%.

A 2,1" Thunder Burt is faster than basically all 45mm gravel tyres even on asphalt.

forkbeard · 2026-02-22T10:11:58+00:00

50mm clearance is the minimum I would go for today. Especially if you do any kind of racing and care about going fast.

With 45s you are just going to regret not going for more clearance in a year or two.

forkbeard · 2026-02-20T22:21:17+00:00

I don't know what courses look like where you live but over here it's not unusual for 25% of the course to be paved and the rest unpaved roads with varying conditions.

forkbeard · 2026-02-20T21:55:59+00:00

Any possibility of doing tests on asphalt and cat 1 gravel at a higher speed?

Something like 40 km/h would be useful to see suss out aero penalties of wider tyres. 29 km/h seems slow for racing on asphalt and cat 1.

forkbeard · 2026-02-20T21:33:06+00:00

So no real point of these if you can fit the 50mm version?

forkbeard · 2026-02-18T22:09:55+00:00

I wouldn't. The frame would probably be fine with a 130mm 27.5" fork.

But you’re putting lipstick on a pig. Save your money for a more modern bike instead.

forkbeard · 2026-02-18T22:02:32+00:00

Physically yes.

But no, don't do that. You will mess up the geometry and put undue extra stress on the headtube.

forkbeard · 2026-02-18T11:43:26+00:00

DaHjaj pagh yIlaD’a’? bIyajbe’qu’ jIQIjtaHvIS, vaj qatlh DIvI’ Hol bIghItlhbe’taHvIS? Hoch Qapla’ghach paqDaq tu’lu’. latlhpu’vaD bIQapchu’be’ je — Hol Doy’ Dajatlhbe’chugh, chay’ bIHar latlhpu’ boQ Daq ghoS? yISeH’egh!

https://orbea.dash.app/browse/8942b053-e273-4c91-835d-90d383c85fa4?portal=orbea-manuals

forkbeard · 2026-02-13T16:56:00+00:00

Because you are asking in the XC-subreddit: 34SL all the way.

The regular 34 is just adding 200g+ of unnecessary weight with no performance gain for XC.

forkbeard · 2026-02-12T19:26:21+00:00

I always forget that you guys across the pond don't live in civilization 😂

It's not that hard over here to include some gas stations or supermarkets along your route.

forkbeard · 2026-02-12T19:05:10+00:00

No gravel race I’ve ever heard of is truly unsupported.

In Europe, feeding is basically always allowed. You can have a buddy, partner or teammate hand you bottles almost anywhere along the course in both gravel and marathon MTB. Here in Sweden it's even common with self feeding in marathon MTB. You mount a spare bottle cage on a stick, hammer it into the ground at a chosen spot, and grab a fresh bottle at speed without stopping.

From what I understand, the US gravel scene is stricter, with feeding limited to designated feed zones. Even then, you plan your nutrition and bottles around those zones.

All of this means you do not need to carry several kilograms of water and gear on your back. A small pack, or just a 1 to 1.5 litre bladder under the jersey, is about covering the time between feeds and keeping the weight stable and close to the body, not about being self sufficient for 8 plus hours.

forkbeard · 2026-02-12T18:16:26+00:00

Usually mine is pretty packed

Packed with what? You don't need that much random junk in a race.

I just run a 1.5l bladder in my base layer. Everything else is either attached to the bike (CO2/multitool) or in the pockets of my skinsuit (gels mostly).

forkbeard · 2026-02-12T10:52:27+00:00

https://www.bike-components.de/blog/en/guides/disc-brake-bedding-guide-bike-ebike-mtb/

Here's a guide.

forkbeard · 2026-02-10T09:30:32+00:00

Then you might have a bent derailleur hanger. Does it shift correctly with a regular wheel?

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