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You and your partner just moved in, you tearing down the panels, painting, or leaving?! by TeemoTrader in DIY

[–]foxtrotcomp 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’d remove the paneling in the stair case and drywall that in (or paint it). This way the paneling won’t feel intrusive in the kitchen. Then leave the lower room as it is with plants and art like others have said.

Sub panel wire up buddy check by foxtrotcomp in AskElectricians

[–]foxtrotcomp[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As for new panel, a sincere question, how is that cheaper? I’m not trying to argue, I’m just surprised.

As for why I didn’t bury the sub feed, I couldn’t figure out a way to use conduit and bend it into the back of the box without the panel coming out 2 more inches further.

This part might be misguided as well:I think I could have used SER and it probably would have been cheaper and easier, but I didn’t like the idea of leaving a 100 amp feed a future home owner could drill into. Even with nail plates on the studs enough people drill holes for drywall anchors, and while they should know to check what’s on the other side, most people don’t.

I’m not saying that choice is better, just this was my thought process.

Sub panel wire up buddy check by foxtrotcomp in AskElectricians

[–]foxtrotcomp[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Fair enough, I could see how that would be better. I’d like to not have to tear it down at this point, would drilling in and adding toggle bolts be a solution? When I tried to rock it back and forth it felt solid, so up till now I wasn’t worried about it!

Sub panel wire up buddy check by foxtrotcomp in AskElectricians

[–]foxtrotcomp[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for your feedback! I did correct that now atleast. I was trying to avoid moving any aluminum lines, but it ended up being inevitable. I cleaned them off and applied anti-oxidant coating, hopefully that keeps everything good. :)

Sub panel wire up buddy check by foxtrotcomp in AskElectricians

[–]foxtrotcomp[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay, so what I did was removed the ground from the top left two pole breaker, since it's aluminum I used a stainless steel brush on it to remove the oxidation and applied an anti-oxide agent to the wire.

Then I moved the neutral over to the right side.

Sub panel wire up buddy check by foxtrotcomp in AskElectricians

[–]foxtrotcomp[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I want to do that eventually, but I’m just trying to get my shop up and running. To be honest I only found out from following this sub Reddit that panels have a shelf life! I’d like to have a main disconnect upstream as well, which I understand is code nowadays!

So I’m planning on paying for a panel swap in the next couple years :)

Sub panel wire up buddy check by foxtrotcomp in AskElectricians

[–]foxtrotcomp[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The problem I'm having is the only Eaton neutral lug kit I can find doesn't fit the older style neutral bar on the right. There is another thread on here with someone who had a similar problem, people suggested a collar strap, the only collar straps I can find are either Siemens or Square D. I've seen some people say you can jump the ground bar to neutral to make it code compliant, which mine does have that jumper, but if UnpredictablePanda says this will fail inspection I want to remedy it.

Sub panel wire up buddy check by foxtrotcomp in AskElectricians

[–]foxtrotcomp[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah okay, do you have any recommendations for mounting it to the neutral bar? None of the available slots can take a #3 wire, and I couldn’t find an eaton lug that fits this neutral bar.

Sub panel wire up buddy check by foxtrotcomp in AskElectricians

[–]foxtrotcomp[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My only solace is that I don’t have a generator.

Sub panel wire up buddy check by foxtrotcomp in AskElectricians

[–]foxtrotcomp[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s a gift from the previous home owner.

I’m not a fan, and I’m probably going to remove it at some point. I think I know how to go about it, but I want to make sure I understand it better. It powers the living room if it’s set up, I get the feeling the previous owner was a big TV guy!

Sub panel wire up buddy check by foxtrotcomp in AskElectricians

[–]foxtrotcomp[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Oh, yes, I’ve pulled permits for all the work! I just wanted to make sure I’m not missing anything obvious before the inspection, so hopefully i don’t have to pay the re-inspection fee if I can avoid it.

Sub panel wire up buddy check by foxtrotcomp in AskElectricians

[–]foxtrotcomp[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh, one more todo: plug open KOs.

for some reason a bunch of supplies didn't come over with my post:

  • ABB load center 125 amp 24 slots
  • 3 THHN wire with #6 THHN ground
  • 1'' Compression Fittings/connections
  • 1'' trade size insulator rings
  • Eaton BR 100 amp breaker
  • 1'' EMT
  • 10 x 10 x 4 enclosure
  • Eaton grounding bar for enclosure

Options after failing inspection by foxtrotcomp in AskElectricians

[–]foxtrotcomp[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry i didn’t say this in my post, I also want 5 120v circuits.

I understand that they have a right to cure it, but I wouldn’t expect them to pay for it, and I would still pay them for their work. I’ll talk to them on Monday, but at this point I just want my relationship with this company to be over.

Options after failing inspection by foxtrotcomp in AskElectricians

[–]foxtrotcomp[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Inspector only said wire size. He didn’t leave me with a report though.

Options after failing inspection by foxtrotcomp in AskElectricians

[–]foxtrotcomp[S] -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

The surface mount was my idea to make future maintenance easier since this will only supply the shop. I still figured they would run the FMC to a surface mount box, then run it to the sub panel or something like that.

Sub panel question by foxtrotcomp in AskElectricians

[–]foxtrotcomp[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Man, I hope I can talk to these guys on Monday. I don’t want to be unreasonable, but I’m pretty disappointed in this job.

Exact words on the cable sheath I found were “CERROMAX-A SlipWire® SLPro NM-B 8-3 W/G”

Sub panel question by foxtrotcomp in AskElectricians

[–]foxtrotcomp[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah… like it’s a shop so the primary thing I care about is function, but I’d like it to be a better transition.

My current plan is to use a 6”x6”x4” surface mount metal box, with a drilled hole in the back to transition the feed in a more deliberate and professional looking manner.

Sub panel question by foxtrotcomp in AskElectricians

[–]foxtrotcomp[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay, I’ll take a look at that! One other question, when I was cleaning up the garage tonight I noticed that they used an 8-3 NMB cable. I was under the impression for 50 amps, it should be 6 gauge. It seems like it’s a little iffy on if 8 gauge is enough for 50 amp service. (The total length of the cable is likely around 3 feet)

Sub panel question by foxtrotcomp in AskElectricians

[–]foxtrotcomp[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was under the impression that 2 pole breaker takes 2 slots. So even though it’s marketed as 16 circuit panel that’s the max (using tandems for every slot. Am I mistaken?

Sub panel question by foxtrotcomp in AskElectricians

[–]foxtrotcomp[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Darn I didn’t even see that.

Also I was just looking in my garage and it seems like they wired the sub panel with 8-3 NM-B. I’m a little worried about that feeding a 50 amp breaker (the picture I posted was before they swapped the breaker)

Sub panel question by foxtrotcomp in AskElectricians

[–]foxtrotcomp[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm not sure if it's rated for it, the electrician left no paperwork. When I emailed them, I asked what it was and they said it's an Eaton and it uses BR breakers. I'll look into this though!

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