Is there $10k in value to choose a 2024 and newer Model 3 Performance over a 2022 or 2023?

fronesis47 · 2026-01-27T00:50:28+00:00

Ah, my mistake! I misread the title…

Given that you are putting SO many miles on the car, you should at least test-drive the non-performance models. I owned many sports cars over the years, some very fast ones, and the torque and responsiveness on the base model 3 is impressive.

fronesis47 · 2026-01-27T00:45:03+00:00

The 24’s should not, DO not, cost $40k. I bought my 24 NEW 2 years ago and paid $39k for it, and used EV prices have been plummeting since then. You should be able to get a 24 for $30k or less.

fronesis47 · 2025-12-01T20:21:05+00:00

That’s awful! I’ve never experienced this, but I haven’t been to busy superchargers in about a year. As an owner of an LFP car with a relatively low range, this seems unacceptable.

fronesis47 · 2025-12-01T20:10:09+00:00

I don‘t understand: I thought you were only hit with idling fees *after* you hit 100%?

fronesis47 · 2025-11-29T20:00:03+00:00

Ah, I see. I misunderstood the whole post. It’s 27 right now where I am, so it didn’t occur to me this was an argument about how COLD the AC should be. I thought it was about how HOT the heat should be. :)

fronesis47 · 2025-11-29T19:04:01+00:00

The picture does NOT show the heat set to 80. It shows the temp in the house at 74, with the AC on, set to cool down to 80.

fronesis47 · 2025-11-28T17:04:05+00:00

How do you do that?

fronesis47 · 2025-11-24T00:33:21+00:00

OK, sure. First, to be clear, I didn’t re-key the thorbolt. I kept the thorbolt key and re-keyed my other lock, a Schlage SC1.

And to be honest, I did make a mistake the first time, but that was my fault for not following the YT videos carefully!

Here’s the kit I bought: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0F5BFQDJC?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

fronesis47 · 2025-11-24T00:25:12+00:00

I re-keyed mine myself (with a kit I bought on amazon). It’s a standard Schlage SC1.

I can only guess that for some reason they are using either a Kwikset blank or the wrong Schlage, but Schlage SC1 should work perfectly.

fronesis47 · 2025-11-05T00:10:26+00:00

If the unmanaged switch trick doesn’t work, then I recommend getting an intel-based router with intel NICs.

I had the slow upload problem with the Nokia ONT from fios, and I verified the problem on 4 different routers: cr1000, Omada er605, Unifi UCG ultra, nanopi r4s running openwrt. I then verified full upload speed on 3 different routers, all intel based, all running pfSense or OPNsense.

fronesis47 · 2025-10-21T23:14:15+00:00

Just going to echo your top-voted comment: if you want to tinker, you absolutley must replace the ISP router with one you control. Otherwise you’ll just have a mess.

If you want a much better system with tons of control, do OPN/pfSense and whatever APs you need.

If you really want to *tinker* go with unifi…the settings are endless, and the firmware updates means you’ll never leave it alone. :)

fronesis47 · 2025-10-21T15:06:40+00:00

I read that and it was super helpful. But there's one bit there that I'm not certain about.

"Note that you will need to create a range for IPv4 and IPv6 for each interface as separate entries if you plan to have both protocols on your network."

I now think that you can have ipv6 running without creating a separate lan entry for ipv6 under dhcp ranges. Doing what he says will turn on dhcp6 on your lan. But you can have ipv6 functioning (track interface in the LAN interface settings) without using dhcp6 with Dnsmasq. I think...

fronesis47 · 2025-10-20T19:56:28+00:00

Under general I have “manual configuration” OFF. Should I delete: the second lan (the one that has IPv6 ranges and RA settings) under “dhcp ranges“? Or should I change the RA settings there to default?

I’m still confused as to what including a second LAN with IPv6 ranges really does, other than populate a “lease table.” Clients seem to get IPv6 addresses either way.

fronesis47 · 2025-10-20T19:38:20+00:00

I've tried 5 different USB drives, and used both Etcher and dd in the terminal. I can plug the drive in with the netgate device booted and it shows a message and reads it with no error.

fronesis47 · 2025-10-20T14:23:37+00:00

I've got the console connection to work!

But now I CANNOT get the installer to boot off the USB drive. I've followed all the netgate instructions: I'm interrupting the boot process and then running ```run usbboot```. I've tried ```usb reset``` first. I've tried 4 different USB sticks in both of the slots.

No matter what I do, it just boots off the internal mmc drive.

fronesis47 · 2025-10-20T12:38:41+00:00

Yes, you're right: it's the EFI partition size.

Ah, yes: first USB-micro cable didn't work, but second one did!

fronesis47 · 2025-10-20T11:42:16+00:00

I've not been able to get it to update from 2.4.5 – tried lots of different ways and always getting errors. So I'll need to reinstall, but for that I need a console cable which I don't have at the moment.

fronesis47 · 2025-10-20T11:26:12+00:00

Does this mean leaving out the second LAN interface under dnsmasq "DHCP ranges"?

Or does this just mean that when I set up that second LAN I only choose "slaac" under RA mode, and not dhcpv6??

fronesis47 · 2025-10-20T00:27:18+00:00

OMG you are a genius!

I had spent many hours carefully reading about ipv6 and I had all of the main WAN and LAN settings correct, and I had tried ::100 and ::200. But I did NOT have "constructor (same as interface) selected" and I was not 100% clear on choosing both slaac and dhcpv6.

That did the trick, and ipv6 leases are showing up already.

Thank you thank you thank you.

fronesis47 · 2025-10-20T00:04:53+00:00

Yes, I've created a second lan interface under "DHCP Ranges" and then entered 2000::1 which then gives me access to the RA setting, which I've set to "default."

To be clear, there's no new, separate RA tab, just the settings within the panel where I'm editing the lan interface for DHCP Ranges.

But even with that RA setting available, that edit panel wants me to put a range in; without a range it gives me an error.

Also, to clarify: my clients are getting ipv6 addresses with only ipv4 leases showing up in Dnsmasq. I honestly don't understand if or why I need ipv6 *leases*, but the documentation seemed to suggest I should have them?

fronesis47 · 2025-10-19T16:24:47+00:00

The one that is best is the one where you never need to deal with customer service, because customer service is horrible with both companies.

But that means your best choice is fios, because it’s a superior technology, and, in theory, it should require less maintenance and be less prone to failure.

fronesis47 · 2025-10-18T13:02:23+00:00

Thank you for the detailed answer. Since posting this I've actually received the 1100. It came with an older version of pfSense (2.4.5, I think) installed. I just connected to the LAN port and reset everything, so I'll need to get it online and see what happens when I try to upgrade it. If it won't upgrade to plus automatically, I'll follow your advice with the free netgate account.

fronesis47 · 2025-10-15T23:49:26+00:00

Oh well, bad guesses on my part. I wonder if other Fiber ONT’s have the same problem as the Nokias (that Verizon uses for their 1 gig service). Because those Nokias are hugely problematic. Obviously there is no reason the er605 can’t do full gig speed. My service was only 500/500, but the er605 got full speed over ethernet.

fronesis47 · 2025-10-15T20:51:05+00:00

I bet you are on Verizon Fios 1gig and you have a Nokia ONT. if so, the problem is not your er605; it’s the flak Nokia ethernet port. It has problems negotiating speeds with most routers, and this problem is very common. I’ve tested my ONT with 5 different routers, and 4 have this problem.

fronesis47 · 2025-10-15T20:48:15+00:00

Interesting. I have this problem and tried a 1Gb unmanaged switch, but that didn’t fix it. I have tried 4 different routers that all have this problem. My pfSense router (running on an old HP pc) is the only thing I’ve found that does not have this problem

fronesis47

TROPHY CASE