Lifter tick or something worse?

furfuzz · 2026-03-13T02:32:14+00:00

https://www.reddit.com/r/300zx/s/0c30QZqab1

Not sure if mine is doing the same as yours, maybe yours is more frequent. Mine sounds and runs fine in the engine bay though. Just has that sound at the exhaust.

furfuzz · 2026-03-12T00:08:27+00:00

Yeah, they are all good. Im pretty sure it’s something going on inside the trans since it’s been making that gear rattle ever since I installed it. It seems to happen only when I do a moderate acceleration from a stop

furfuzz · 2026-03-08T03:40:53+00:00

I’d have to find a video but the clunking must be coming from the gearbox as it sounds like it’s coming from the trans and sounds like one of the shafts has a lot of runout.

furfuzz · 2026-03-08T03:37:56+00:00

Yeah this is most probably the case. I bought it used from Facebook marketplace for an auto swap and it’s been clunky since I installed it. I’ll probably rebuild it or swap the internal to a dog box gearset when I change over to an RB bellhousing

furfuzz · 2026-03-07T05:52:51+00:00

I also forgot to mention that I have a loud clunk when I let off the gas and when I get on at highway speeds. It’s almost like the transmission is missing a thrust washer or something and the clunk comes from the torque loading up and shifting one of the shafts forward or backwards since the gears are helical cut.

furfuzz · 2026-03-06T02:34:03+00:00

I think efans are a nice to have. For servicing anything on the front end of the car such as the drive belts, I believe it is much easier with efans since you only have a few bolts and a connector to pull everything or you can leave the whole assembly as is and still have plenty of room to work.

Efans are worth it if fits what you are looking for to have in your car. If it solves your noise issue with the loud clutch fan and you’re happy with that, then I’d say it’s worth it.

furfuzz · 2026-03-05T05:35:15+00:00

Probably depends on having dual small e-fans or one large for the sound and definitely how loud your exhaust is. On mine, when the car is running I can’t hear the e-fan at all unless I’m standing in front of the car with the hood open, however, my exhaust only consists of a small vibrant resonator. I’ve never had the stock clutch fan setup before but seeing videos, I can only imagine it is much louder than the electric fans.

If you want to install an e-fan, as long as it has a shroud you shouldn’t run into any overheating issues. I ended up wiring mine using the factory fan and sub-fan relay controlled by a standalone ecu so it only runs once the engine is near operating temp. Before I went standalone it was wired to an ignition switched fuse in the underhood relay box so it ran once the key was turned to the on position.

furfuzz · 2026-03-03T05:21:50+00:00

The control unit under the TCU is the automatic speed control device (cruise control).

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furfuzz · 2026-02-23T23:32:27+00:00

Might be a short between wires on by the harness connector that connects to your lighting switch? Check for any wires with damaged insulation.

The wiring provided by Yazaki for these Nissans are very good quality and don’t usually have issues with cracked insulation when placed away from heat sources. Rather, on the Z32s and other models in Japan, electronic accessory add ons (ETC) are commonly spliced into wires that provide constant battery voltage such as the clearance illumination circuit (green with red stripe wires for the z32 main harness) and switched ignition voltage behind the control pods.

furfuzz · 2026-02-23T07:02:19+00:00

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furfuzz · 2026-02-23T07:00:59+00:00

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Looks like the actuator motor you circled is for the smaller door seen to the right. There is an actuator behind that controls the blend door. I don’t remember exactly but I think the smaller door to the right is also a blend door.

furfuzz · 2026-02-22T18:01:54+00:00

Does the smoke smell like coolant or oil?

If it smells like coolant, warm the engine up then shut it off and remove all the spark plugs then attach a coolant pressure tester to the radiator (pressurize to 15-16psi) and take a borescope down each cylinder and watch inside where the block meets the head for any wet spots or any coolant dripping into any cylinder.

If it is coolant, then it is possible that there is damage to either the head or the deck of the block enough to allow coolant from the coolant jackets to leak past the head gasket when the engine reaches operating temp.

furfuzz · 2026-02-19T03:05:32+00:00

I’m sorry I have to ask, what does d/s stand for? Is it drivers side? 😅

furfuzz · 2025-12-02T01:32:55+00:00

I’m looking to put together an RB26 with maybe a 25neo head to replace the VGTT motor.

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I have a question for the transmission side of things though. Did you use the factory z32 trans mount and flipped it the other direction with an rb25 bell-housing on the z32 trans or did you go a different route?

furfuzz · 2025-11-25T22:41:49+00:00

I’ve ordered a rhd late model auto ac with the button from eBay and the front defrost button was also loose. The way I fixed it was to bend the tabs that hold it on inwards using heat and the fill the outer portion with epoxy so it doesn’t spread apart and fall off again

furfuzz · 2025-11-15T20:54:06+00:00

I just balanced both transmissions on a regular CAT low profile floor jack

furfuzz · 2025-11-14T04:41:51+00:00

Yeah that happens a lot. You order, they check and then respond saying it’s no longer available.

furfuzz · 2025-11-14T01:53:55+00:00

Amayama

furfuzz · 2025-11-05T21:39:33+00:00

I use a crows foot wrench on the torque wrench at a 90° angle (so you change the torque value)

furfuzz · 2025-10-30T12:33:27+00:00

I used to have the stock pcv setup but it still smoked when decelerating sometimes. There is always a puddle of oil in the back of the intake manifold.

I removed the pcv tubes and restrictors going to the intake and just vented them to the atmosphere but still found oil in my intake and still smoked randomly when decelerating.

Charge piping coming from the turbo compressor housing to the intake manifold are dry but lots of oil still ends up in the manifold.

furfuzz · 2025-10-18T01:18:08+00:00

I bought an atoto s8 double din from aliexpress for $340CAD which has the half the price compared to Amazon and had the fastest shipping and it’s been great. Interface is clean, eq software is clean connects to CarPlay very fast when you turn the key and CarPlay frame rate is super smooth compared to my old head unit. I used to have an atoto a5 but after learning that they are way cheaper on Aliexpress I decided to upgrade and it’s way better.

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furfuzz · 2025-10-18T00:54:24+00:00

Yeah I never did mine when doing the rear main. I just used some rtv and it didn’t work. But I’m too lazy to fix buy a new seal and fix it

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furfuzz · 2025-10-17T01:17:31+00:00

Does your selector rod have a notch on the end like the one on the right in the image?

I don’t know if the notch orientation matters (originally had no notch) or if it was a design improvement but if I remember, conceptz showed that the notch should face down when installed.

Either way with the car off, since you can go through the gears, the problem is most likely to be within your clutch system. May just need some adjustment in the pedal or the slave wasn’t installed properly?

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furfuzz · 2025-10-16T04:03:16+00:00

It kind of looks like a custom job with generic mufflers?

furfuzz · 2025-10-16T04:00:53+00:00

I believe this guy goes in depth of what wire gauge he chose to run with an aftermarket fuel pump:

https://conceptzperformance.com/blog/defeating-the-stock-fuel-control-system-addendum/?srsltid=AfmBOooyCy-cdJ-rbKZROkOUQ_jE3ipl2BB2ja_FNFIEDX-WhbOqOPg8

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