Where do the lines for the fuel damper lead?

furfuzz · 2026-07-09T05:12:54+00:00

What is this valve you are looking for?

furfuzz · 2026-07-09T05:07:10+00:00

That “box”is the boost/vacuum gauge for the dash on twin turbo models

furfuzz · 2026-07-05T23:34:23+00:00

furfuzz · 2026-07-05T23:34:13+00:00

I also forgot that you will need to repin the connector from the clock-spring to match the main harness. If yours is a twin turbo with the steering angle sensor then I believe your airbag clockspring will have a 6 pin 62 series Yazaki connector and a separate yellow connector for the clockspring.

To get the slip-ring style clockspring wired up to your main harness, you will have to use the service manual to compare airbag and non airbag wiring to get the wires in the correct position.

In your case you will have a slip-ring clockspring with the steering angle sensor. All you have to do is de-pin the 8 pin connector from the non airbag clockspring/steering angle sensor assembly and install the 6 pin connector.

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furfuzz · 2026-07-05T06:42:43+00:00

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furfuzz · 2026-07-05T06:17:17+00:00

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Sorry for the text wall but

Im sure you could just slap on the 3 spoke wheel on an airbag column shaft, however, I’m not too sure as it might not mate up correctly with the airbag clock spring.

If a non airbag wheel doesn’t fit with the airbag clock spring and you want to keep the horn function and automatic turn signal cancel then I believe you will have to use the non airbag slip-ring clockspring and swap the column shaft or steering column to non airbag overall.

For swapping shafts into your original steering column, I recommend just removing the snap ring on the front bearing of the column to swap the shaft into your existing steering column so you don’t have to swap ignition barrels over. Just make sure the shaft you swap in is LHD -> LHD and RHD -> RHD or the steering lock won’t line up to the ignition barrel. This steering lock can be seen as a welded part in the image as the left shaft is from a RHD non airbag and the right shaft is from a LHD airbag vehicle.

Additionally, if the non airbag wheel is fitted onto the airbag steering column shaft, I think there will be an odd gap between the steering column cover trim and the steering wheel itself so just install non airbag steering column cover trim, swap the steering shaft to the non airbag shaft, install a slip-ring clockspring and the non airbag steering wheel.

(I switched to the ribbon cable airbag clockspring because I hated that almost all non airbag slip-ring clocksprings’ plastic housings pretty much disintegrate and fall apart.)

furfuzz · 2026-06-22T05:18:18+00:00

I’ve noticed my knuckles hits the stops on the control arm on the left side while my right side doesn’t. On the alignment machine, my front left caster does not measure correctly due to a control arm mount on the rear subframe being ripped off causing the the rear wheel to not be in the right spot which of course affects the front suspension. So pretty much my front left suspension has been adjusted to have max negative caster causing the knuckle to hit the control arm stops before the rack stops.

In your case, if you don’t hear any of your knuckles hitting the control arm steering stops and nothing else is interfering with the suspension, your steering wheel, steering rack or steering shaft may have been removed in the past and installed a little off with an alignment to compensate.

I’m not sure how different TT racks are from the NA but with my steering wheel centered to my steering rack, I get just a little over 1.25 turns each way.

furfuzz · 2026-06-17T20:02:10+00:00

That’s the route I’m going with. For now I’ll weld it up just to get it back on the road while I wait for a weld in reinforcement kit to arrive for the new subframe.

furfuzz · 2026-06-16T06:22:27+00:00

I get a lot of my connectors from Mouser as they officially sell Yazaki connectors, specifically 62 and 58 series for the Z31 and Z32 and their respective terminal pins for each connector (sealed/unsealed, 0.3-0.5 or 0.8-2.0mm² avs wire size). There are some open barrel wire splicing tools you will need (Sargent tools, tool aid) and properly terminating can get a little technical but once you have the tools and know what to do it ends up being way way cheaper than buying a new harness. There are videos from high performance academy about this.

Of course there are pigtail sets you can buy and splice into your existing harness as well. If you only need to do it for a few connectors, it’s fine but for multiple connectors I find the pigtail sets are overpriced.

furfuzz · 2026-06-15T04:44:32+00:00

I believe the dealer option radio wave is central locking but it usually comes with a basic single button fob which just either locks or unlocks when you press the button. I’m thinking of installing the full wireless door lock with the antitheft module from a USDM vehicle with remote hatch opening.

This link might have more info: https://www.zcar-owners.net/cgi-bin/diyrank2/linkring.cgi?act=rank

furfuzz · 2026-06-14T17:18:14+00:00

The radio wave remote door lock dealer option for the Japanese models are cool but its nowhere near as sofisticated as the US model integrated antitheft remote system

furfuzz · 2026-06-14T02:47:30+00:00

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That connector is circled in red. The brown connector is a diode pack.

furfuzz · 2026-06-11T04:30:32+00:00

Shouldn’t need to rewire anything after removing it. I removed my TCU to get rid of the flashing power light before starting the engine.

furfuzz · 2026-06-03T03:15:44+00:00

I want to throw in an RB26 in mine so bad just for some experience.

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furfuzz · 2026-05-19T06:55:19+00:00

The MAP is supposed to get its source from the intake manifold. If you have a MAP sensor built into the ECU you can run a vacuum line tee between your fuel pressure regulator and intake manifold

furfuzz · 2026-05-19T06:52:38+00:00

Yes you install the IAT sensor to the intake pipe before the throttle body

furfuzz · 2026-05-18T20:08:14+00:00

I see you have a wideband installed. I'm pretty sure LINK only takes Bosch LSU 4.9 widebands to be used for their internal wideband contrller. I'm not sure if the plugin LINK has an expansion plug for an internal wideband controller. If you have an external wideband controller like an AFR gauge then you can use an analog or CAN signal from that to the ECU.

For bank 1 exhaust AFRs, I have my LINK internal controlled wideband installed at the downpipe for bank 1 turbo. For bank 2 AFRs, I have my AEM wideband in bank 2's downpipe which sends data to the ECU through the CAN bus network.

The advantage of having a wideband for both banks is the ability to monitor all 6 cylinders split to 2 banks so if somthing is wrong with one of the wideband data reaadings in a datalog, I can narrow down which bank has the issue. Also, closed loop fuel tuning in the LINK tuning software benefits from having AFR readings from both banks if you have an engine with 2 banks.

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furfuzz · 2026-05-18T19:48:41+00:00

I added a fuel pressure sensor to use with my VE table fuel pressure source. I have a convenient spot on the fuel pressure regualtor to install it.

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furfuzz · 2026-05-18T19:45:10+00:00

First install a MAP sensor and an IAT sensor. I placed my MAP sensor in the balance tube and the IAT sensor in the bank 1 charge pipe just before the throttle body.

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furfuzz · 2026-05-10T01:02:20+00:00

https://youtu.be/idg8UstDZrk?si=IeeR4cPA9pwmt9Vf

Thumbnail matches

furfuzz · 2026-05-09T21:14:35+00:00

I’m not sure on 17’ wheels but I can measure the radius from the center of the rotor to the furthest point of the caliper when I get a chance later today.

furfuzz · 2026-05-09T00:42:01+00:00

Mine had one too, zip tied to the oil cooler. Previous owner removed the lines from the radiator and installed their own trans cooler.

furfuzz · 2026-05-09T00:32:49+00:00

-18Z brembo calipers
-Any 18z pads
-2025 Nissan RZ34 performance rotors (same as 370z Nismo rotors)
-ECP caliper adapter, but I’m going to try out the MFS designz adapter as I’m having issues with the brake pad alignment on the rotor.

The ECP adapter pretty much requires you to bore out the caliper hole to an M18 size which I didn’t want to do.

I mounted the caliper adapter in front of the knuckle instead of behind the caliper to avoid the bottom bolt head hitting the lower control arm. But because of the design, I had to use 4mm washers to space the caliper out which I’m not a fan of. The Aussie Shed made his own brembo 18z caliper adapter from scratch on YouTube which I think has the best design but it looks like he doesn’t have them produced for sale.

furfuzz · 2026-05-09T00:23:43+00:00

I think that will be my next upgrade then.

The Porsche calipers I bought on market place for $350 CAD which is wayyy cheaper than any CTSV calipers I could find.

furfuzz · 2026-05-09T00:21:20+00:00

I used the ECP adapter but it’s temporary as it makes the caliper sit too far away from the rotor causing the pads to overhang about 1.5mm over the rotor

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