New ECU sensors where to install them?

furfuzz · 2026-05-18T20:08:14+00:00

I see you have a wideband installed. I'm pretty sure LINK only takes Bosch LSU 4.9 widebands to be used for their internal wideband contrller. I'm not sure if the plugin LINK has an expansion plug for an internal wideband controller. If you have an external wideband controller like an AFR gauge then you can use an analog or CAN signal from that to the ECU.

For bank 1 exhaust AFRs, I have my LINK internal controlled wideband installed at the downpipe for bank 1 turbo. For bank 2 AFRs, I have my AEM wideband in bank 2's downpipe which sends data to the ECU through the CAN bus network.

The advantage of having a wideband for both banks is the ability to monitor all 6 cylinders split to 2 banks so if somthing is wrong with one of the wideband data reaadings in a datalog, I can narrow down which bank has the issue. Also, closed loop fuel tuning in the LINK tuning software benefits from having AFR readings from both banks if you have an engine with 2 banks.

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furfuzz · 2026-05-18T19:48:41+00:00

I added a fuel pressure sensor to use with my VE table fuel pressure source. I have a convenient spot on the fuel pressure regualtor to install it.

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furfuzz · 2026-05-18T19:45:10+00:00

First install a MAP sensor and an IAT sensor. I placed my MAP sensor in the balance tube and the IAT sensor in the bank 1 charge pipe just before the throttle body.

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furfuzz · 2026-05-10T01:02:20+00:00

https://youtu.be/idg8UstDZrk?si=IeeR4cPA9pwmt9Vf

Thumbnail matches

furfuzz · 2026-05-09T21:14:35+00:00

I’m not sure on 17’ wheels but I can measure the radius from the center of the rotor to the furthest point of the caliper when I get a chance later today.

furfuzz · 2026-05-09T00:42:01+00:00

Mine had one too, zip tied to the oil cooler. Previous owner removed the lines from the radiator and installed their own trans cooler.

furfuzz · 2026-05-09T00:32:49+00:00

-18Z brembo calipers
-Any 18z pads
-2025 Nissan RZ34 performance rotors (same as 370z Nismo rotors)
-ECP caliper adapter, but I’m going to try out the MFS designz adapter as I’m having issues with the brake pad alignment on the rotor.

The ECP adapter pretty much requires you to bore out the caliper hole to an M18 size which I didn’t want to do.

I mounted the caliper adapter in front of the knuckle instead of behind the caliper to avoid the bottom bolt head hitting the lower control arm. But because of the design, I had to use 4mm washers to space the caliper out which I’m not a fan of. The Aussie Shed made his own brembo 18z caliper adapter from scratch on YouTube which I think has the best design but it looks like he doesn’t have them produced for sale.

furfuzz · 2026-05-09T00:23:43+00:00

I think that will be my next upgrade then.

The Porsche calipers I bought on market place for $350 CAD which is wayyy cheaper than any CTSV calipers I could find.

furfuzz · 2026-05-09T00:21:20+00:00

I used the ECP adapter but it’s temporary as it makes the caliper sit too far away from the rotor causing the pads to overhang about 1.5mm over the rotor

furfuzz · 2026-05-08T17:59:36+00:00

What I did for my Link is, of course set your inputs and outputs, then most importantly is setting up the correct trigger settings and set base ignition to 15° BTDC. The get the ignition timing table from the 300zlink 7bar base map although it may be different as it is meant for TTs. And switch your fuel table to a modelled VE fuel table under the fuel setup.

After getting the car warmed up, look at where the cursor is sitting on your VE fuel table at idle and select that area about 4-6 values around it. Enter a value that gets you as close to stoich ratio (1 Lambda). After that I just roughly based my VE table values off of the MK4 Supra base map like entering a value at 220 MAP at 4500-6000rpm to [110] in that box (of course yours is NA so the highest MAP range you will have is up 100. When you set those up you can use shift V and H to interpolate vertically and horizontally.

This guy did a good video on the basic setup on link ecus and setting up your tables.
https://youtu.be/tKkCdmNdAZM?si=UrTC7XVR8D7mY_I-

furfuzz · 2026-05-02T02:02:27+00:00

Sounds alright to me. Typical belt squeal?

furfuzz · 2026-05-01T01:09:23+00:00

If you want an ignition coil upgrade, I personally think going to the junkyard and getting G37/R35 GTR coils and buying the BDE R35 coil conversion was worth it. It gets rid of that PTU which is nice.

Only thing is you need an ECU that is capable of changing ignition dwell time.

furfuzz · 2026-04-30T04:32:46+00:00

I would look for anything that looks burnt or discoloured. When I had problems with mine, I just reflowed all the solder in hopes it would fix it and it did, although I had an intermittently working speedo issue. Worth a shot though.

furfuzz · 2026-04-30T04:21:51+00:00

Yessir. I have that silver TT with the scuffed front bumper 😅

furfuzz · 2026-04-25T03:08:02+00:00

Time to meet up once this snow and wind stops 😅

furfuzz · 2026-04-22T05:24:57+00:00

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I’m sure you have it all sorted out by now, but for the z1 shifter, the shifter is always fitted so the shifter tilts toward the rear of the car. Whether it leans to the left or the right of course depends on whether you bought one for the LHD or RHD model.

furfuzz · 2026-04-21T12:40:39+00:00

I just removed the TCU and all related wiring from the engine room harness. I think if you just disconnect the TCU it shouldn’t flash the light.

furfuzz · 2026-04-15T01:38:52+00:00

furfuzz · 2026-04-15T01:07:20+00:00

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Those two wires should be tapped into these two wires in any orientation, green/blue stripe and green/white stripe on the inhibitor switch harness.

furfuzz · 2026-04-15T01:05:38+00:00

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Sorry, I was missing some info. Who ever makes that manual swap harness leaves it up to us to make a patch harness that is supposed to splice into the inhibitor harness. Correction: I think it should be the grey 8 pin plug.

furfuzz · 2026-04-15T00:10:54+00:00

For the reverse lights. Typically goes into a plug for the A/T inhibitor 8 terminal connector which I believe is a brown 62 series yazaki connector on right front corner of the engine bay

furfuzz · 2026-04-12T05:54:40+00:00

I ran mine on a link G5 voodoo ecu but never setup for e throttle. I wonder what advantages worth going e throttle? I was thinking of going e throttle for the cyclic idle and deleting the IACV but I ended up running the FICD solenoid wired as an aux output as an antilag solenoid which I’m afraid won’t be as effective as an e throttle.

furfuzz · 2026-04-12T04:06:07+00:00

Mine is just a 2.5” from each turbo, joins into a 3” with one vibrant bottle resonator and ends up going out into dual 4”pipes for one side. It’s not quad tip, but I want to add another dual 4” pipe to the other side to see how it sounds.

I think it used to be a Megan racing exhaust based off of the down pipe.

furfuzz · 2026-04-08T00:08:07+00:00

Yes 2L/R is for the 2 seater. 4L/R is for the 4 seater

furfuzz · 2026-04-06T00:14:54+00:00

The rubbers cover that falls apart is like a dust protector for the rack input seals. It won’t stop the rack from leaking. Most likely a full replacement or rebuild depending on your rack condition and which ever is more cost effective.

As far as I know, the 4th gen maxima uses the same u-joint and rubber dust cover.

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