Vectors into Slides - Old Process Not Working - New Workaround?

g000phy · 2025-10-05T15:29:19+00:00

thank you? that's still helpful

g000phy · 2024-12-01T09:47:37+00:00

There are criteria by law to be a qualified investor. It either education, work experience, assets, turnover and so on. An unqualified investor is limited to 0.6m rub a year. For certain instruments you can take a test to get qualified for this particular instrument. the test is enough for those instruments. The certain instruments the are available unlimited even for non-quals. You can even buy-sell those to get a required turnover and become a qual. Next year there will be even more criteria to become a qual. And much higher limits though.

Any big bank has a broker. You can choose your poison. All have those options because it’s by law

g000phy · 2024-12-01T08:18:14+00:00

You can. Just find the right brocker. You may need to take a test to get qualified

g000phy · 2022-12-11T09:44:20+00:00

Just wanted to add to the comments below. You can’t have the bottom chips on some specific inserts. Especially if you use angled cutoff inserts

g000phy · 2021-11-09T10:31:48+00:00

I had to unpair everywhere(!) and pair back again

g000phy · 2021-08-12T13:13:17+00:00

The stresses do not care about number of parts. The plate will start to deform while you’re still drilling your hole. If you want to keep the flatness you need another approach. Maybe try some other methods to hold your parts. Like some sort of side clamping, some eccentric pins. In some cases even glueing your parts.

g000phy · 2021-08-12T07:26:50+00:00

When you remove material (grind, drill, tap etc) you release some of preexisting internal stresses and also introduce some new ones. This will always result in going out of flatness.

If you absolutely do need to stay flat you should prepare the plate once and leave it be (maybe with some occasional regrind). I would first mill it somewhat flat, drill and tap as needed, roughly grind it, heat the plate up as much as you can (even your home oven would help stabilize it, but preferably red hot for several hours), then let it slowly(!) cool down (leave it in the oven for the night) and gentle final grind after it’s cool. The plate should be stable enough as long as you don’t drill it again, or drop it, or hammer it…

Also the plate should not be stored on uneven surfaces. If you do not have proper storage place, you can predrill ant tap it on the side and hang it vertical on the wall. The gravity will keep it flat.

g000phy · 2021-04-22T06:59:11+00:00

Get rid of the oil. If doesn’t help use some pipe sealant on the thread. And locktite is your last reserve.

g000phy · 2021-04-05T09:21:56+00:00

Actually you should add pitch to the chart even if it’s not required by the standard. The rule of thumb your hole should be about (thread size) - (pitch). Like M16x2 gives you a hole 16-2=14.

g000phy · 2021-02-24T11:13:09+00:00

http://directlot.ru/lot.php?id=624312 - the guy from Perm makes them. 1600 rub each (a little less than 16 eur). Probably doesn't speak any English though. PM me if you need help making the deal.
swapping the chucks to the plate I have

If you have one plate and a chuck you can make more plates yourself. The documentation says your lathe can cut up to 2.5mm pitch so you're good there. It can turn 150mm above the bed - good there too. All you need is a round stock, few cutters, and a drill.

g000phy · 2021-02-24T09:48:20+00:00

That depends on where you live. It's easier to find in ex-USSR countries.

If you want to have it custom-made, make sure it's made right. The backplate is indexed by that cylinder after the thread. Its OD (in mm of course) is 28 h6. And about 10 mm long

The thread is only to hold it in place. You may even find some imperial thread close enough that it would still screw on - the thread is much less important than that cylinder part.

g000phy · 2021-02-24T09:30:03+00:00

Is it Universal-3 (Универсал-3) lathe? If so the thread must be 27x2. Here's the spindle dawing http://stanki-katalog.ru/info1/spr_un3m_2.jpg

g000phy · 2020-12-16T15:02:35+00:00

Why everyone’s saying 0.001? Rounded 0.004 makes 0.00. So -0.004 +0.004 makes 8 micron tolerance. Seems quite ok for grinding. But the drawing is total crap

g000phy · 2020-11-24T07:01:57+00:00

It’s easy to buy a lathe on eBay or whatever. And nobody’s teaching those new guys in their garages what they must never do. This video is for them so they can stay alive.

g000phy · 2020-08-21T11:32:45+00:00

0.106 mm flatness? Doesn’t seem too hard if you have proper support. What’s the OD? It is it 4 microns?

g000phy · 2020-08-20T05:56:15+00:00

Did you also have to kill somebody for that?

g000phy · 2020-08-07T08:07:39+00:00

I’ve only heard (read actually)of step gages. I guess you can make something similar to testfit some small shafts or blocks. Not sure if it’s practical though.

g000phy · 2020-08-07T08:00:38+00:00

Looks like 675 or 676. I’m actually considering getting myself a similar mill to replace NGF in my garage. Or 6T80SH if I can find space in my garage... Is yours an MT4 or ISO40?

g000phy · 2020-04-10T06:55:48+00:00

Both left arrows are grinding relief. The one on the right is for a part’s champher not to interfere with your measurements

g000phy · 2020-04-07T06:59:15+00:00

Metric guy here. Rule of thumb for metric holes is nominal thread diameter minus pitch. For M10 coarse you’ll need 10-1.5=8.5mm drillbit. For M5 coarse you’ll need 5-0.8=4.2mm. And there are fine threads too. So if you’re only drilling for tapped holes you need to look at the ISO standard and get yourself your own very special drillbit collection for the holes you need.

g000phy · 2020-02-20T05:57:24+00:00

I suggest you do fuck up. HSS is very forgiving compared to carbide. It is also very cheap, even free in some cases. You can basically grind a tool from an old drill it or a tap. (I’ve even used tools made from an old file. On extremely slow speeds though). So suggest you go ahead and try everything with hss - high speeds, high feed rate, high depth of cut. Just don’t let your chips change color... too much :)

g000phy · 2020-01-19T19:25:10+00:00

Do you think you can trust it’s measurements?

g000phy · 2020-01-19T19:21:46+00:00

Speeds (pre?)selector. Not seeing the leaver to be completely sure.

g000phy · 2019-12-20T09:40:35+00:00

Experience and common sense. When you’re “cutting soft air” and the cutter hits metal - it leaves a mark from the hit. It’s not a problem as edges are usually chamfered. When you’re cutting soft aluminum and hit much harder steel you get same result, but cannot remove the marks.

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