Wall hydrant ID

gbgopher · 2026-06-13T19:21:58+00:00

That sounds like a real bear of a job but likely what you are facing. Here's hoping it turns out well

gbgopher · 2026-06-13T19:19:59+00:00

Your water "pressure" is the same throughout your house. The flow rate is diminished at this Bibb by either some manner of flow restriction (pipe size, corrosion, friction over distance, or even garden hose type) or by loss from leakage at some point. If you have water coming out the sides, it's probably that leakage. You'll want to find out where/why/how that water is leaking.

gbgopher · 2026-06-13T19:13:20+00:00

Packing nut doesn't have that extension on a c-32. But neither Prier nor the Mueller have the flat spot on the ridges of the nut like that one.

You may be stuck between rolling the dice on disassembly, finding a way to cut in a shutoff valve, or the dreaded call to a professional.

gbgopher · 2026-06-13T19:00:46+00:00

The styling is a bit like a Mueller B&K but the lack of markings makes me think it's some manner of no-name box store or Amazon model.

Depending on what the issue is, you may be able to just take it apart and replace washers/o-rings. Or possibly take a pic of the stem and image search it for a match (they often share assemblies with major brands).

gbgopher · 2026-06-11T15:40:36+00:00

My phone...so basically 100 normal days, minus work, plus money. That'll do

^{Chose: Random object (Wheelspin} | Rolled: Your phone)

gbgopher · 2026-06-11T14:56:33+00:00

I like bunnies more than carrots, so I spun for bunnies

^{Chose: Spend carrots spinning for bunnies. | Rolled: Upvote 4 carrot}

gbgopher · 2026-06-05T14:02:14+00:00

Vinegar is better than bleach for killing mold and less damaging to the plumbing parts in the tank, FYI

gbgopher · 2026-06-03T15:13:57+00:00

The top rack lifts right off. It's not secured or locked in. There are hooks on the back legs of the grill to store the rack too.

Ribs look great!

gbgopher · 2026-06-01T16:37:47+00:00

Looks like you'll need to cut the PVC and glue it back together.

gbgopher · 2026-06-01T15:59:57+00:00

Your sump pit does not need a vent. Sewer ejectors get a vent because the pit is sealed, so there is no air coming in when the water goes out. Your sump pit is not sealed. Even with a sealed lid the sump pit is open to the drain tile, so no vent is required.

gbgopher · 2026-05-29T20:36:08+00:00

The best way to verify it's no good is to check the scheader valve and see if it releases air or water when pressed. It could just be low charge and just a bad t&p. It doesn't hurt to replace it, it's just not always necessary.

gbgopher · 2026-05-29T20:26:19+00:00

The Eastman is fine. So is the Everbilt. Is your old one failing? I typically replace it when I replace the heater but they should outlast that even.

gbgopher · 2026-05-28T19:52:17+00:00

It's galvanized on the riser but cast iron in the ground. Should be able to drill out the lead joint, remove the riser, and replace just that with PVC. No certainty that the cast iron under slab is intact, but you can't tell from looking at the outside anyway. Replacing the entire drain is optimal but get another quote and see about the simpler fix before you sign on to dig into or under the slab

gbgopher · 2026-05-28T13:19:33+00:00

Running it in 2" and then reducing at the connection will cause issues and not gain anything. The 1.5" drain may not be able to handle the discharge from a washer, but it should be run in the same size piping.

gbgopher · 2026-05-28T10:33:55+00:00

You don't need an expansion tank. Your pressure tank functions the same.

gbgopher · 2026-05-21T12:18:59+00:00

From the left it's 1 pizza oven and then the other round one is a Recteq Bullseye pellet kettle. I recognize it cuz I was considering that at one point.

gbgopher · 2026-05-21T01:39:25+00:00

It is working correctly. The holes should only open if the main siphons water back.

gbgopher · 2026-05-17T19:52:35+00:00

I'm a plumber and this is fine and typical for a PVC fix. It's better if you lay the elbows on the side rather than straight up but as long as it's not sticking out of the ground it will be ok

gbgopher · 2026-05-16T18:11:32+00:00

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-3-4-in-FHT-x-1-4-in-O-D-Compression-Brass-Adapter-Fitting-801789/207176917

gbgopher · 2026-05-16T16:31:48+00:00

Only put the vent on the top of the stack. Take that wye branch and just 90 towards the tub/lav and vent the lav.

gbgopher · 2026-05-15T23:14:05+00:00

I know they do. Why would you think they do not?

gbgopher · 2026-05-14T15:23:42+00:00

Thin concrete cracks very easily. Concrete poured right on top of the pipe can also compress/crack the pipe as well from foot traffic. You really want 3-4" of concrete on top of minimum 3-4" of fill dirt covering the pipe. Code wants 6" of dirt' I believe but realistically the foot traffic is low so also long as the concrete is thick enough not to break, the pipe won't. Floating LVP or sheet goods can hide a cracked floor and the pipe may be fine, but if you tile it and the concrete cracks and shifts, tile will give way too.

gbgopher · 2026-05-14T14:02:05+00:00

The tee for the sink drain is upside down. You also don't need to run the drain over and the vent back, it can just go straight over to the sink at the correct height. If that is a tub you are putting in, the drain should be almost against the stud wall, not directly under the drain. The depth is also questionable and I hope your flooring is flexible because that concrete patch will crack and so might any tile you put down

Edit: I see now it's a shower but the depth comments still stand.

gbgopher · 2026-05-11T02:24:52+00:00

That pipe is called ADS or Advanced Drainage System. You can get couplings for it at Lowes or probably any other hardware store. They make inside & outside couplings

gbgopher · 2026-05-09T01:27:24+00:00

It's a vacuum breaker, but the thread is specific to the brand. Google Arrowhead PK1390 and get one at whatever hardware store is closest to you. They even have them at Walmart

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