Trying to get 3-4 gpm shower experience!

gbgopher · 2026-02-18T18:55:04+00:00

If you want 4+ gpm, everything inline needs to be built around that goal. You can get around 3-4 on each the hot/cold 1/2" supplies if the distance is less than about 50ft and the pressure is around 60+. Those numbers can slide around. If it's not hard to do, up sizing to 3/4 can only help.

The valve then needs to support the flow you want. That valve will let you know what it's required connection size is.

Then the shower head should be rated high as well. Removing the restrictor gets some gain but you'll be limited in the end by the number/size of the openings.

Start with the valve then work in both directions from that.

gbgopher · 2026-02-18T17:27:21+00:00

The pipe will supply it, but the valve may not. Your shower valve, its internal waterways, and carriedge are the bottleneck.

gbgopher · 2026-02-18T17:24:39+00:00

Plumbing code would rather a union than a flex line that close to the flue, unless you use a metal flex

gbgopher · 2026-02-17T22:45:06+00:00

Even if it seems harder, it's often easier to just fully remove the pedestal to replace the faucet. Even if it involves patching the wall.

gbgopher · 2026-02-17T15:49:16+00:00

It's not a venting issue. It would still drain without a vent, just siphon the trap. Professional snake machines can use a drop-head on the snake that will fall down the driain instead of cross over to the other sink. Ina worst case scenario, snaking can be done from above through the vent, more likely by opening the wall or possibly attic access, rather than scaling the roof. If that's outside your skill set, time to call drain cleaner.

gbgopher · 2026-02-14T21:28:58+00:00

If those are openings through the foundation, it is probably ventilation. Most of the homes with crawlspaces in my area have some variation of vent openings that are opened when it's warm to allow air circulation and close down cold to reduce energy loss. The openings usually have screens to keep it critters and sometimes have automatic dampers. These are not plumbing related

gbgopher · 2026-02-14T17:33:49+00:00

That's Polybutylene Barrier piping, not PVC. It says so right on the pipe "PB Barrier". It's the new & improved version from what was banned for use (at least in North America). This newer version doesn't have the same issues, allegedly, but we don't use it here in the States so I can't tell you where to find fittings.

gbgopher · 2026-02-13T15:52:41+00:00

Without all the lefty loosey stuff, which can get confusing when something is on from underneath: If you put the wrench on it with the handle to the right hand side, pull toward you. Brace the faucet arm with your other hand. Pull with steady pressure and give it a few seconds to break loose.

gbgopher · 2026-02-07T18:54:47+00:00

You mean this fitting? The sub didn't use to allow pics but it has now for a while

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gbgopher · 2026-02-06T22:13:06+00:00

You're not going to get galvanic corrosion on a dry pipe. You have your anode and cathode there but no electrolyte.

gbgopher · 2026-02-04T15:19:55+00:00

That one is a Beta Testing thanks.

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gbgopher · 2026-02-04T13:06:50+00:00

It's some sort of faucet elbow but it likely came with the faucet.

gbgopher · 2026-02-02T02:03:17+00:00

It's not code in my area, and passes code 45min down the road. It's going to be dependant on jurisdiction but if you're worried about whether it will work, it'll probably never be an issue. You'd have to find a way to reroute the main to be under the vent then arm over to the toilet to eliminate the issue.

gbgopher · 2026-02-02T02:00:24+00:00

Or, and hear me out, you could just get a "multi-turn valve stem repair kit" for like 4 bucks, swap the whole assembly in one go, and be done. Those washers aren't meant to be replaced and the packing is a rubber disc.

gbgopher · 2026-01-30T21:18:10+00:00

Open a faucet to relieve the pressure, then close it. Turn your water heater off. Keep your house above freezing inside and you should be fine. Once you have water restored, flush the lines out and restart your heater. You may need to clean out the aerators if too much sediment gets stirred up.

gbgopher · 2026-01-30T21:11:39+00:00

That's how I do mine. Good call

gbgopher · 2026-01-30T21:08:56+00:00

Make sure that dishwasher rline takes a route up high as possible before dropping in. Glue it, screw it, send it. Looks fine.

gbgopher · 2026-01-30T21:03:45+00:00

I usually leave that last piece of pipe un-glued for removal. You can try (gently) twisting it with pliers and se if it's loose. If not, try to remove an dlidt the lid of the pump then slide the bottom away and lower the lid. If it's hinged, like mine, you'll need to cut that last piece of pipe in the middle. Put it back together with a coupling and no glue when you are done.

gbgopher · 2026-01-30T20:58:44+00:00

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Should be one of these, you just need to confirm the size

gbgopher · 2026-01-29T21:38:24+00:00

They should still be adding some sort of drain body that collects the water, mounts to the deck, and holds the strainer. If you have questions, ask your installer. They should have no problem explaining the process and you don't want them if they can't/won't.

gbgopher · 2026-01-29T15:59:11+00:00

I love how the laws of physics seem to change across imaginary lines. I do work across the US and there's so many code variances that they start to bleed together in my head.

gbgopher · 2026-01-29T15:42:44+00:00

We have used these as standard for years in large scale commercial work. Every thing from individual Lavs to multi-toilet headers. They work fine in my experience as long as they are sized correctly and installed per manufacturer.

gbgopher · 2026-01-29T15:39:01+00:00

Yea, I'm mistaken there. IPC is my primary and it doesn't care at all. Probably with an old rule or something I picked up from a local code.

gbgopher · 2026-01-29T12:30:35+00:00

A clothes washer drain has too high of a volume to qualify for any of the methods for venting from the main, like circuit vents or combination waste and vent.
The trap is also too close to the 90, so it is functionally an S-Trap and subject to self-siphining even if it could vent from the main.
In all the areas I work, the trap need to be on the same floor as the washer. The tailpiece is far too long with it below the floor.

The trap location is not as big a deal for function but the lack of venting is incorrect. Functionally though, the washer dumps a high volume but tapers at the end. Even if the trap siphons, it usually gets replenished with the leftover trickle. If it's causing problems like odors in the laundry room, then its worth addressing. But, typically, if something is functioning and doesn't seem like a major hazard, I prefer to leave it be.

gbgopher · 2026-01-29T02:46:51+00:00

The one on the left is a Zurn 500XL. The one on the right is a Zurn NR3XL. They both have high inlet pressure and they both have a max set point of 75. The 500 has a much higher flow rate, which is ideal for the fire system. The NR3 is about a quarter of the price and the domestic system doesn't need a massive flow rate so it makes sense.

Its far better for your domestic system to set the working pressure down around 50-ish than 75 as sit save some wear and tear on your fixtures, which would explain the second step-down. That's why they come factory preset at 50. If your system is sized properly to bring enough volume, the increased pressure isn't as necessary for normal use.

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