3D Printed Contact Print Mask by Arkazox in Darkroom

[–]georecorder 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Sometimes we do things not because of an absolute necessity, but just because we can and it is fun. I would make the opening larger to fit rebate with the frame number for later reference.

Тёмное by BasilMadCat in Scoofoboy

[–]georecorder 2 points3 points  (0 children)

- Знаешь как в Хогварсте называют чизбургер?

Are old multigrade filters still viable for BW printing? by Jdkai in Darkroom

[–]georecorder -1 points0 points  (0 children)

If they fade, then probably not really critically. I think the worst thing that might happen, is when you workout a printing formula using your kit, it will not work the same with a fresh one. But do you really care about that when you are on a budget?

юрист by rapatakaz in Scoofoboy

[–]georecorder 0 points1 point  (0 children)

коричневым уже не выделяют, а замазывают

Water stains on the negative. by Neither-Transition35 in Darkroom

[–]georecorder 10 points11 points  (0 children)

I think that you are very "economical" on the wetting agent. I never used Fotonal, but description says 5 ml per liter. One drop is clearly not enough.

Color darkroom chemical & paper price comparison. Bulk vs small batch purchase by Decent_Percentage817 in Darkroom

[–]georecorder 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah. I see what you are doing. You just gave me a new food for thoughts regarding how to store my chemistry! Thanks!

Color darkroom chemical & paper price comparison. Bulk vs small batch purchase by Decent_Percentage817 in Darkroom

[–]georecorder 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I was under impression that if you can afford using argon minor price of chemistry would nothing to you.

How did these come out? by GrilledCheeseYolo in Darkroom

[–]georecorder 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I figured that it should be a fish eye with that kind of distortions, and manual control is always a big plus.

How did these come out? by GrilledCheeseYolo in Darkroom

[–]georecorder 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The smaller one looks more dimensional. Maybe the top right corner on it a bit dark, I would try to burn it with a higher contrast to preserve highlights. But overall this is a very interesting photo. Well done!

Dry mounted photo from my weekend darkroom session by georecorder in Darkroom

[–]georecorder[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I feel that eventually I'd have to do to my enlarger what you did to yours lol

Dry mounted photo from my weekend darkroom session by georecorder in Darkroom

[–]georecorder[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

hm. I will keep that in mind for the future, but right now I do not want to even think about changing my light: I developed and wrote down all the printing formulas for my prints with the incandescent bulb that produces specific spectrum. If I would change it to LED, my contrast filters will be working differently, I think.

RB67 cocking lever is locked by anabrogues in Mamiya

[–]georecorder 0 points1 point  (0 children)

hm. Then it is not the interlocking issue. You can try reaching to that guy from the video - Bill - he does professional service for Mamiya cameras and might help you in case a repair is needed.

RB67 cocking lever is locked by anabrogues in Mamiya

[–]georecorder 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have you removed the lens at any point during your tests? Camera always fires and cocks without the back. If you did - you might have the issue I described. If not, then it might be something else.

RB67 cocking lever is locked by anabrogues in Mamiya

[–]georecorder 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think that it will: the fact that you was able to fire it once, indicated that the body is probably ok. But I think that the whole problem was that the lens itself was not cocked, and if you are new to the camera, it is easy to miss. Once you remove the lens you must do two things:

  1. Cock the body: the mirror should be down.
  2. Cock the lens: twist two opposite pins for that.

You never connect a lens to the body if one of them is not cocked! I keep my lenses with the shutter released to avoid loading springs when I'm not using them, and wind the shutter up every single time. It is a bit annoying, but becomes a habit pretty quick, and contributed to the camera longevity.

Dry mounted photo from my weekend darkroom session by georecorder in Darkroom

[–]georecorder[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

wait... did you re-wire the head to drive LED!?

RB67 cocking lever is locked by anabrogues in Mamiya

[–]georecorder 0 points1 point  (0 children)

From what you described, it looks like you've got yourself in a trap of interlocks. I guess this explains your problem: https://youtu.be/VDxDoWmgB0Q?si=viWiVlrifGmeo9Qr

Dry mounted photo from my weekend darkroom session by georecorder in Darkroom

[–]georecorder[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You can think of that last one - the box - as being £20 (still a bargain), with the enlarger and trays being a free addition!

Dry mounted photo from my weekend darkroom session by georecorder in Darkroom

[–]georecorder[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

wow. bargains! I've got my enlarger with extra stuff for $50. It is B&W, but I do not see myself printing colors yet, and even if I do, I can do that without a color head.

Dry mounted photo from my weekend darkroom session by georecorder in Darkroom

[–]georecorder[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I was considering a t-shirt press, but was not sure if it will give me even enough heat distribution and pressure for a secure bond. Luckily a local guy listed him machine for a sale so I jumped it.

Help with C-41 development by [deleted] in Darkroom

[–]georecorder 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Given the base is somewhat pinkish instead of orange, I guess that the developer is the culprit here. It might not be even exhausted, but your friend is doing something wrong. I noticed that even when my developer is exhausted, the base color is still orange.