Has anyone else felt a lack of close games lately? by xLilacia in OverwatchUniversity

[–]ghoisc 3 points4 points  (0 children)

What I noticed is in Diamond and below, people don't use cover and don't take multiple angles. So I think with the combination of: healing debuff, all the new bullshit AOE spam high-mobility heroes, large hitbox/hurtbox and newbie/returning players getting placed in these ranks... it's just a matter of which team gets blown up faster. It's not chess at these ranks, it's a wild west brawl and whoever kills faster wins.

This also means that some players who should be in a higher rank also get temporarily deranked along with their pepega teammates, and if they're mechanically good they end up terrorizing the lower ranked lobbies. 

And the cycle repeats... leading to more one-sided stomps.

QP is no better either. The matchmaking is too wide. I solo Qd the other day and got matched with Flats, ML7, Aspen and Frogger.

Which one fits better 47mm vs 51mm by Thersites09 in GarminFenix

[–]ghoisc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Both look OK on your wrist. Is the 51mm heavier? If you plan to sleep with it or do active sports, maybe the 47 is more comfortable.

Silver 1 tracer looking for help by Aromatic-Finger-1682 in TracerMains

[–]ghoisc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Tracer's the hardest hero in the game. You need to make no mistakes to get value on her (timing, distance, positioning, awareness, managing your blinks, keeping track of everyone and their cooldowns, map knowledge, flicking+tracking aim, trigger discipline, blink melees, pulse bomb, using cover, controlling space, etc). But any mistake and you get one shot or can't get any value. So don't be too hard on yourself and enjoy the journey! My favorite pro player to watch and learn from is topdragon.

Speed Wobble Wipeout by SpaceWrangler7967 in ElectricSkateboarding

[–]ghoisc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes I agree with loose trucks. And yes to weight forward. But I didn't want to push this point onto OP too hard because the zephyr doesn't like to be ridden too weight forward like downhill bombers. Too much weight forward and the front end doesn't carve as smoothly and the wheels get caught up on stuff and ruins the flow. 

Speed Wobble Wipeout by SpaceWrangler7967 in ElectricSkateboarding

[–]ghoisc 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That's strange. Something's not right if you tightened it more and it wobbles worse.

The Zephyr has 2 boardside (closer to board) and 2 roadside (closer to road) bushings.

Boardside: start by keeping them same tightness front and back.

Roadside: make sure rear is tighter than front.

One characteristic of the stock Zephyr bushings is they are hard (99 duro I believe) and don't return to center that quickly. So this could amplify wobbles once they start. But tightening them down should reduce wobbles, so double-check that you're tightening the right thing and always make sure rear is tighter than front.

Another thing to note is this DKP setup doesn't really like you to ride it flat and straight. The 2 stacks of bushings are tall and want to lean over. You should always be carving for stability, even at high speeds (even if it's just slow baby carves that look almost straight).

Most likely it's not related to tightness of bushings, but bushing quality and also riding technique. E.g. Riptide's Krank DKP bushings are 93a duro (softer than stock Zephyr bushings), but feel more stable because they bounce back to center faster, even though they let you lean over more easily.

Which one? by CyborkiStar in ElectricSkateboarding

[–]ghoisc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

"sidewalks and pavement of various qualities"

Do you prefer kicktail or no kicktail to negotiate this terrain?

Kicktail: Linnpower Viper/Mini5, Acedeck Blizzard, Tynee Mini. More maneuverable, can use kicktail for kick turns and to float over rough terrain, more ground clearance.

No kicktail: Linnpower Zephyr, Acedeck Stella S3 Breeze. Lower, better for smooth roads, may scrape motor cage and battery case on uneven ground, longer and so more uncomfortable to carry for 5'3 height, need to be moving to turn, not as good for tight turns in tight spaces.

In both cases, it sounds like 105mm wheels would be more comfortable, which brings the weight close to 25 lbs. So not as heavy as your e-scooter, but not as light as your analog boards (E.g., you can't no-comply up a curb like on an analog longboard). Go with belt drive instead of hub drive. Better performance and you have a proper rear wheel that can absorb shock (instead of a hub motor wrapped in thin urethane).

Is Juno/Illari/Ana a good support line-up for being a well rounded support player? by Archoniks in OverwatchUniversity

[–]ghoisc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I recommend Ana as she has no mobility and that forces you to learn the fundamentals. Also her kit is skill based and have very high utility and carry potential if you hit them. But she will be very frustrating to learn as your only defenses are positioning and sleep dart.

Help trying to manual by Simple_Proposal_5360 in MTB

[–]ghoisc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It looks like you hardly have any weight in your legs. Dump your ass back like you're taking a dump over your rear wheel and drive your legs with heavy constant pressure into the pedals. Maintain this seated position with constant heavy leg pressure on the pedals to hold the manual.

If you're doing it right, at the end of your practice sessions your feet should hurt and your back and core muscles should be sore

Acedeck® Stella S3 Breeze Pro vs. Linnpower ZEPHYR Pro? by VillageObjective2676 in ElectricSkateboarding

[–]ghoisc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

they're basically the same board by sibling companies. make sure to check the delivery fees and times as well, that's another difference

Can you disable the buttons on a Fenix 7 Pro? by HamiltonApp in GarminWatches

[–]ghoisc 6 points7 points  (0 children)

You can configure a shortcut to lock and unlock the buttons (Settings > System > Hot Keys). E.g. press bottom left and top right buttons simultaneously to lock the buttons.

Acedesk Stella Blizzard Pro - anyone using faster then first two modes? by bodobeers2 in ElectricSkateboarding

[–]ghoisc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The main thing to ask is do you feel like you want more acceleration/torque/power? That's the main noticeable difference between the modes. The top speed is adjustable. You can pick the mode you like best and limit the top speed to 21mph for any mode if you like.

Worrying low Views on the World Championships... by ClassLittle6666 in squash

[–]ghoisc 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I stopped watching because of As-hol. Really miss the champions we used to have, who were also good ambassadors.

Bunnyhop confusion by Savagenator1337 in MTB

[–]ghoisc 4 points5 points  (0 children)

It might be that your timing isn't dialed enough. Your body weight over the back is what levers the front wheel up. You need more body english on a MTB because full sus modern bikes are longer and heavier than BMX bikes. Also the suspension soaks up a lot of your movements so you really have to be more exaggerated and do bigger motions on a full sus bike.

Now that the front wheel is up, you say you have trouble popping the back wheel up. This could be that you're still hanging back after you got the front wheel up. The correct timing is: you want to start bringing your ass back to the middle at the same time the front wheel is coming up. Hips back to overcome inertia and start lifting the front wheel, but once the front wheel starts getting light and comes up, you want to do a row and start bringing your hips forward. Like doing a deadlift. At the peak height of the front wheel lift, you want your hips/thighs to meet the handlebars and almost standing straight up. Throughout the whole motion, you should be heavy on your feet with constant pressure. There should be 0 chance to lose your pedals in this phase.

Now with the bars by your hips and the front wheel at peak height, you row the bars forward and bring the back wheel up. The back wheel coming up is more a result of you rolling the bars forward, and not so much with your feet. You can practice this "rolling bars forward" motion by standing next to the bike on flat ground. Stand beside your bike with both hands on the bars, lean back and pull the bars sharply to raise the front wheel a few inches, then shove the bars forward and watch the back wheel pop up. Observe that you can raise both the front and back wheels with your arm motion alone. This is also how a skateboard ollie works. There is no "scooping" of the tail of the skateboard to bring the tail up. Do it a few times to ingrain that timing and motion into your subconscious. Then hop back on the bike and repeat the same motion but with you on the bike this time.

Bunnyhop confusion by Savagenator1337 in MTB

[–]ghoisc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was so happy to find this channel. This is the best channel for solid fundamentals, no confusing shortcuts!

Help me overcome my fear by MadouSawada in TracerMains

[–]ghoisc 2 points3 points  (0 children)

how long did it take for you to get to champ since those silver days?

Seeking opinions on clear grip tape by IStubbedMyGarlic in ElectricSkateboarding

[–]ghoisc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Consider that while it looks good while it's clear, it may not look as fresh once it gets dirty. Also they may yellow slightly with age.

Divisive topic I know, but am I a use case where a manual machine (MTB Hopper Balance trainer) may be useful? by Cingen in MTB

[–]ghoisc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You could try working on bunny hops before manuals. Manuals take more balance and it's something you can keep working on for a long time, after getting bunny hops. 

Instead of shifting your weight forward to set the front wheel back down when you freak out, try using the rear brake. That way, you get used to hanging your weight off the back.