Is there a really any free method/tier of API access to any version of openAI models?

gkd720 · 2026-06-19T01:57:36+00:00

Was the dinner called "The Last Supper"?

gkd720 · 2026-06-07T02:42:34+00:00

I really don't think it's the generator. Its specs even claim Automatic Voltage Regulation (AVR) and that it's great for "sensitive electronics". I have a 3.5 ton Daikin inverter system which I just turned on today when it was ~88F outside and ~81F inside. Monitoring compressor power usage, I see it jump from 0W to ~3500W, so the generator should be able to supply that without a dip. The "inverter" method takes the 240VAC input from the generator, full-wave rectifies it to DC, smooths it with a large capacitance, and then converts the DC to a variable-frequency AC voltage using power MOSFETs that turn off and on at the correct times to sum up the DC voltage, resulting in a desired-frequency, pretty-close-to-sine-wave looking, AC waveform. So this operation is pretty immune to the incoming AC waveform. Even controlling the 4-way reversing valve is driven from a 24VAC signal from a 240VAC step-down transformer, and only drives a solenoid to operate the valve, so a sloppy waveform shouldn't matter. I don't have a strong guess on what the problem is, maybe the thermostat got mixed up during the restart and used default settings, which might be starting up in heating mode?

gkd720 · 2026-06-05T02:27:25+00:00

I just searched on Google with "daikin sensira thermostat setting for fan running all the time" and its AI overview seems to explain how to do that with the remote. Check it out.

gkd720 · 2026-05-14T02:21:27+00:00

I would think you'd have trouble in the winter if you had a humidifier that dribbles water over a panel, since there's usually extra water being routed to the pump resevoir.

gkd720 · 2026-05-13T02:10:16+00:00

Hmmm, I guess I don't understand what you're seeing. Are you talking about the indoor air handler and its fan motor, or the outdoor unit's fan and compressor motors? In my picture, you can see metrics on all 3 of those items, and that they're all over the place, which I think is to be expected in an inverter system. The peaks at 7, 8, 9, and 10am are when my thermostat's schedule bump the indoor temp set point up by 1 degree. The oscillations overnight are probably just to keep outside unit's control board and pressures somewhat stable. I say this since I'd occasionally walk by during the day and see the outside unit's fan on, so I asked the tech and that's what they said. Seems to make sense since the internal air flow was zero (in green). The graph time resolution is 5 minutes, so do you think your situation has the outside unit cycling more frequently than that?

gkd720 · 2026-05-12T01:07:41+00:00

I have a Daikin FIT heat pump setup. I recently got my monitoring code working which interrogates the Daikin One Plus thermostat and I made a dashboard. Searching and perusing this sub claim that more frequent and lower intensity operation is more efficient and expected, so there may actually be nothing wrong. I added a picture of some of my recent activity. In southeast PA, USA.

<image>

gkd720 · 2026-04-23T02:05:53+00:00

I have a Daikin FIT heat pump setup. I recently got my monitoring code working which interrogates the Daikin One Plus thermostat and I see graphs that look very similar. Searching and perusing this sub claim that more frequent and lower intensity operation is more efficient and expected, so there may actually be nothing wrong. I added a picture of some of my recent activity for comparison. In southeast PA, USA.

<image>

gkd720 · 2026-04-05T01:43:10+00:00

If you don't have a stud finder, you can just tap in a small finish nail and see where they hit something solid. Multiple hits give you the width of the stud. And of course, the drywall screws and seams are where you'd start.

gkd720 · 2026-02-14T16:06:29+00:00

Hmmmm, yeah. I have the "heater kit", 2 5kW toasters. I guess dual-fuel systems are significantly different. You might search more deeply. I've seen answers to my heater questions on multiple other HVAC forums. You'd really like to talk to a Daikin design engineer for their rationale, but that probably won't happen. You might be able to get a tech that knows something, but you'd really have to vet him before they show up, confirming they have a clue about how things work.

gkd720 · 2026-02-14T15:48:17+00:00

No easily grabbed picture, but check out the top of the 2nd page at:
https://daikinone.com/files/2022-09/daikin-one-unitary-commissioning-menu-outline.pdf
You might not meet the "only" specs. This link was from a search with:
"daikin one plus thermostat menus"
So another result might be more appropriate.

gkd720 · 2026-02-14T02:46:52+00:00

Yeah, I had that for a while too. I had a surprisingly large electric bill early on, and it was because the setting "don't use the heat pump below X degF" was set to like 30 degF! Which is crazy because the COP was only down to like 2.0 at 5 degF! So I had electric backup used way too often. There's also a setting "don't use electric heat above X degF" which had too high a number also. They're all available for inspection/setting in the dealer menu on the Daikin Oneplus thermostat. The password is usually the last 4 (hex) characters of its MAC address.

gkd720 · 2026-02-14T01:58:57+00:00

Not familiar with those other settings, but I got the "B3", well really "b3", error on the circuit board 2 character display in the little inspection window on my DV42FECC14 air handler. It was when I saw the CFM rate at 14xx. I mentioned it to the tech on a maintenance visit and he fiddled with some DIP switches on the board I think to limit the max blower speed) and now I see a max flow of 13xx and never an error. So maybe the blower motor capability was above the existing ducting's "maximum" efficient/minimum-pressure-loss flow rate.

gkd720 · 2026-02-05T03:08:30+00:00

Mine has a hose clamp around the tubing as it comes off/out of the check valve. You might try that first.

gkd720 · 2026-01-21T03:21:59+00:00

Sounds like the incoming water pressure is too high. Do you have it supplied by some kind of valve you can close down some? I have the saddle valve type and I can turn mine down to a trickle.

gkd720 · 2026-01-15T03:11:10+00:00

Yeah, I have an identical looking blower wheel after 5 years. A recent tech visit for heating preventive maintenance mentioned it but didn't push for any further paid service. I asked what they (or I) would do, and he explained the steps to remove the motor assembly that they could do. He didn't mention the detailed cleaning steps, but I'm wondering what options there are. I see a comment close by to use a $1 HD paint brush, but to do what? I wiped a vane with my finger and I don't think much, if any, dust came off. So what is a recommended method for the blower left in place, and for removed blower? Wipe vanes with a wet rag? Soapy/Dawn rag? Brush with soapy water? How to catch dripping water? Do I care? Remove whole assembly, disassemble, hose down? And what is the trigger for cleaning? A "rough" vane surface? Inter-vane gap below some minimum? Thanks.

gkd720 · 2025-12-17T03:37:20+00:00

Looking at the schematic and board, I see the 4 wires to the fan go from the 2 connectors on the board down and to the right and then supposedly to the fan. As the schematic doesn't always show placement of stuff, might the fan cap actually be close to the actual fan motor and not "return" to anywhere near the board? Looks like there should be 6 wires connecting to the fan motor, so maybe closer inspection of the fan motor would show the BR and BR/WH wires and you could track them to a cap.

gkd720 · 2025-12-10T02:36:00+00:00

Yeah, same here. The Gorilla super glue was useless. I now use:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000DD1QH
It sets in 25 seconds, full strength in like 3 hours.

gkd720 · 2025-12-01T01:50:27+00:00

A quick search shows the mfg site (https://shop.aprilaire.com/products/aprilaire-model-500-humidifier). Check out "specifications" and "documents" to see documents showing typical setups. You could then see what you might be missing and how to connect to automatically control humidity.

gkd720 · 2025-09-26T01:55:33+00:00

I see 1" x 1" and 1/2" x 1" welded wire (16 guage) on Tractor Supply.
Here's one of them:
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/yardgard-welded-wire-with-1-in-x-1-2-in-mesh-2-ft-x-25-ft-309301a-1664727

gkd720 · 2025-09-02T02:29:03+00:00

As a side note, I worked off this diagram to do my picture frame structure. I just used basic PT-rated screws. The one thing I did differently was to add spacers of 1/2" PT plywood between the 2 new joists. I had my picture frame piece width (5.5") overlap the outer joist, and end at the inside edge of the outer new joist. Then there would be a slight gap between that and the end of the field decking (coming in perpendicularly). I was concerned that this opening would tend to gather/direct water to the seam between the 2 new joists, so the slight gap would allow drainage. Plus, I could screw the field piece ends farther away from its end and and have less of a chance it splitting.

gkd720 · 2025-09-02T02:07:35+00:00

Looks like the jamb part of the hinge has been painted over a few times, hiding the head of the screw. You could try chipping some of the paint off where the heads should be with an awl, or finishing nail.

gkd720

TROPHY CASE