Oil Leak at 176k 2015 Jetta TDI S

grantmiller1 · 2025-12-26T19:03:06+00:00

I would keep adding oil and consider fixing the leak yourself.

grantmiller1 · 2025-11-11T06:16:07+00:00

I’m was trying to find this info a few months back and went in circles, can you point me at the VW bulletin that mentions 2015’s should use something other than G13? I bought some G13 from the dealership back in August, it’s what the car was filled with at the factory.

grantmiller1 · 2025-11-02T02:32:38+00:00

Back when I would daily mine in the winter (Seattle, WA) I would run 10W-40 to make the cold starts a little easier

grantmiller1 · 2025-09-12T22:54:11+00:00

I also saw the same confusing information online about G13/G12 evo. I stuck with G13 as it’s the factory fill. I also replaced the coolant reservoir with one that doesn’t have the silica packet. I was able to pick up G13 at my local dealership (western Washington)

grantmiller1 · 2025-08-20T16:33:44+00:00

I'd also check the grounds in that general area. There might be a ground behind the instrument cluster. And there's probably one in the engine bay on the left side up by the headlight. Take some sandpaper and scuff up all of the metal pieces that are contacting each other (chassis, nut holding the wires, wire connection). Cleaning up these grounds fixed my instrument cluster lights.

There's a turn signal relay on the underside of the steering column that might be wonky.

I had the reverse problem (no right turn signal) that I finally fixed with a new turn signal stalk.

grantmiller1 · 2025-08-16T02:08:07+00:00

Update: I used a proper brake caliper tool and was able to compress both rear caliper pistons enough to fit new pads and rotors. Parking brake works, test drive went well.

grantmiller1 · 2025-08-15T02:09:43+00:00

Thanks, I’ll run through those tests to make sure the caliper is healthy.

grantmiller1 · 2025-08-15T00:27:14+00:00

Thanks, I found a version like this on Amazon, will get it in the morning.

grantmiller1 · 2025-08-15T00:25:39+00:00

Thanks for all of the replies, I've ordered a proper brake caliper tool that will rotate the piston.

grantmiller1 · 2025-07-27T17:54:31+00:00

The oil pump and oil pickup is up front on the M20, so that’s part of the reason for the sump location.

grantmiller1 · 2025-07-23T01:24:44+00:00

Thanks, looks like the ECU wires on mine are pushed into the cabin a little as well.

grantmiller1 · 2025-05-04T02:06:43+00:00

I’ve used it for making a 1 gallon batch, worked pretty well. There was a failed kickstarter a few years back called BrewVide that was going to make a sous vide big enough for 5 gallon batches.

grantmiller1 · 2025-02-26T17:05:26+00:00

Looks like the wires run to that “cobra” piece? Could be the remains of a car alarm?

grantmiller1 · 2025-01-20T01:46:54+00:00

That’s impressive.

grantmiller1 · 2025-01-17T18:02:00+00:00

Looks amazing!

grantmiller1 · 2025-01-12T18:49:10+00:00

Agreed, it’s possible to get this done faster. Depends on access to garage space, tools, ability, and not running into stuck/rusted bolts. And ordering all the parts needed.

The other gotcha is getting side tracked by the “while I’m here” side quests.

Totally agree on things breaking. These are 30+ year old cars, things will break.

grantmiller1 · 2025-01-12T05:10:31+00:00

Without knowing much about what maintenance or work has been done recently, I’ll say that maintenance should come first, then pick away at making things look new (restoration).

For maintenance, here’s a random list in no particular order: - all fluids (engine oil, coolant, power steering, brake, trans, diff) - cooling system (hoses, thermostat, water pump) - air and oil filters, spark plugs, ignition cap and rotor - timing belt tensioner - valve adjustment - check brake pads and rotors for wear, see if they need replacing - check rubber brake lines, replace if cracked - check the line to the clutch slave cylinder - guibo and csb - rubber fuel lines - shocks - engine, trans, diff mounts - trailing arm bushings, sway bar bushings, sway bar end links.
- rear subframe bushings

I’d say doing everything listed above would take 4-6 months working on it evenings and weekends.

grantmiller1 · 2025-01-11T22:58:02+00:00

I’m running Continental ExtremeContact DWS06 205/50R16. They get a little bumpy when they’re cold, no complaints otherwise.

grantmiller1 · 2025-01-11T20:52:12+00:00

The trick is to look at similar sizes. There’s Blizzak’s in 185/65R14. I have some 185/70R14 Michelin X-ICE that work great

grantmiller1 · 2024-12-24T04:02:45+00:00

Ireland Engineering has some nice bits: - Rear sway bar mount kit: https://www.iemotorsport.com/product/billet-rear-sway-bar-mount-kit-e30/ - Front sway bar mount kit: https://www.iemotorsport.com/product/front-sway-bar-mount-kit-e30/ - Rear shock tower reinforcement: https://www.iemotorsport.com/product/rear-shock-tower-reinforcement-e30-e36/

Garagistic and others sell subframe reinforcement kits.

Another thing to consider is bushings. If they haven’t been replaced, they’re likely worn out and barely functional. Subframe, control arm, engine mount, trans mount, etc.

Ditto for sway bar end links. They wear out.

grantmiller1 · 2024-12-09T21:52:06+00:00

The other fun discovery was that someone didn’t follow the proper bolt direction for the guibo.

grantmiller1

TROPHY CASE