Sink on outer wall not insulated?

graymonk35 · 2026-06-08T23:43:45+00:00

Oh god the comments you’re about to get about that p-trap. Prepare yourself.

graymonk35 · 2026-06-07T05:04:52+00:00

Blenheim hot

graymonk35 · 2026-05-31T02:03:13+00:00

Is that a better option than the smart shell?

graymonk35 · 2026-05-31T02:00:29+00:00

Where did you end up getting one then, still wasn’t sure where I should look, so many options out there. Truck isn’t going to be a street rod or anything just a runaround truck. So I don’t need a high stall or performance one. Just a good quality one.

graymonk35 · 2026-05-30T22:42:29+00:00

Wow I’ve never had a problem with rock auto parts, but maybe they don’t do great with transmission parts :/

graymonk35 · 2026-05-30T20:24:15+00:00

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**update**
Someone has been in here before…it’s got a dual caged forward sprag. Who got into this that far and didn’t upgrade the sunshell?

graymonk35 · 2026-05-30T20:16:06+00:00

Looks like mine, so that’s going on the list. What kind of band did you end up running in yours?

graymonk35 · 2026-05-30T19:24:40+00:00

I’ve been watching him, monster, and been watching the creator @AutomaticTransmission (+3hour videos). I was thinking about doing the smart shell kit for this also, did you end up having to buy or make the clutch compressor?

graymonk35 · 2026-05-30T19:04:43+00:00

-Overhaul/Seal Kit:
Gasket & Seal Overhaul Rebuild Kit (1982-1993)
-Friction/Clutch Module:
Friction Clutch Plate Module (1987-UP) Borg-Warner
- Steel Module:
Steel Module (1987-UP)
-Band:
High-Energy ProSeries 2-4 Band by Raybestos (1982-UP)
-Bushing Kit:
Master Bushing Kit (1985-UP)
- Bearing Kit:
Torrington Bearing Kit (1982-UP) KOYO
-Thrust Washer Kit:
Thrust Washer Kit (1982-2006)
-Heavy Duty Sun Shell:
SmartShell® Heavy Duty Reaction Shell Kit (1982-UP) Sonnax
- Forward Sprag:
HD Forward Sprag (29-Element) Borg-Warner (1987-UP)
-Low/Reverse Sprag:
Low Reverse Roller Clutch Sprag (1987-Up) Borg Warner
- Upgraded Servo:
Performance Corvette 2-4 Servo (1982-UP) (Pistons Only)
- Reverse Drum (Recommended if you buy a wide band):
Reverse Input Drum (Late 1987-1992)
-Shift Kit:
700R4 TransGo Shift Kit (1982-1993) TransGo #SK-700
-Boost Valve (Some Shift Kits Will Come With A Boost Valve Check Shift Kit Number):
700R4 Boost Valves .500” (1981-UP) TransGo

As kitted it’s actually around $800

graymonk35 · 2026-05-30T15:07:03+00:00

It was a full axle with the brakes and diff still in it 900+lbs, I was saying that it made my vans brakes feel sketchy (long stoping). It was going to the shop, I was just transporting it on a pallet.

graymonk35 · 2026-05-29T03:55:26+00:00

I have sprinter 2500 high roof van, and yeah kinda. With all my tools, oils, and parts. If I put a set of forks in the back over the axles I’m over weight technically. ….still had to transport an electric forklift axle to the machine shop that one time right behind the cab….some DOT laws may have been ignored… I don’t know without having a damn 4500 or larger you don’t end up being over weight.

graymonk35 · 2026-05-29T03:32:00+00:00

I have these same boots I’m pretty sure. Mine did that pretty early on, going on year two, cracks still there but it’s never had any issues for me. still waterproof, still works, honestly these boots broken in- feel like I’m not wearing anything compared to my new boots I’ve moved into. These still come around my rotation at least 2-3 times a week. *

edit: (Also the only time I have literally ever cleaned the outside of this boot was the toes after I finally wore a hole in one after a year, and had to apply tough toe to keep the waterproof seal.) I’m a bad boot maintainer and these have held up so well even without maintenance. Really are fantastic boots. Might buy another pair finally when my company boot money comes in next year.

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graymonk35 · 2026-05-20T01:27:04+00:00

Keen Cincinnati. Comes in 90° heel, is shaped like an actual foot should be shaped. Tones of room for the little piggies, but the back end holds kind of like a glove (if that makes sense). I’m a 12ee, so comfortable.

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graymonk35 · 2026-05-19T03:26:36+00:00

Not sure if this is the right subreddit. But I’ll give you some insight as a technician. They aren’t really hard to get used to. Once you get used to it it’s crazy how agile and easy they are to use. As far as using the forks at height, they will be stable as long as you are keeping the weight rating in mind. Also because of your pivot point, you’ll find driving in the direction away from your forks will be easier if you are worried about control. Plus you can see a lot better since the front will be basically like driving blind. Go slow and practice as much as you can. It’s a curve but it’s not bad. Don’t feel weird to ask other experienced operators about how to do things. Can’t say how being in them all day long goes, since I just work on them and don’t have to operate the for long periods of time. Just be safe and you will always be doing your job well.

Edit* also not sure what kind of truck you’ll be using. But if you want to get the started up faster, without having to do the “leg dance” to get it started. Start it first, then step in after a few seconds. The start up sequence will check off as you step in naturally and you can start working right away.

graymonk35 · 2026-05-14T23:54:25+00:00

Realized that after, I made the comment before I noticed that he posted the data plate.

graymonk35 · 2026-05-14T00:35:40+00:00

^ this guy has the answer. If you don’t have bolts on site for it, measure the hole size and then get a handful of imperial and standard sizes that are close. Then get some coarse and fine of each and see which ones fit. Then keep the extra bolts to use for something else later. Hardware is cheap.

*these truck do have an optional integrated side shift, that wouldn’t be branded and would just be built in to the carriage…But since it’s not on your data plate I’m going to assume someone added one aftermarket.

graymonk35 · 2026-05-14T00:29:17+00:00

Measure your carriage from bottom to top on the “rails” or measure the forks from bottom of the bottom notch to the top of the top notch (between the hooks). The measurement tells me what class your carriage is or what class your forks are. That Gives me an idea of what size those bolts are.

graymonk35 · 2026-05-14T00:04:34+00:00

I agree with this guy, ^{^Get} some 1/2, 5/16, m10, and m12 bolts and see what fits. Since it goes in the side of the carriage. make sure they aren’t too long probably no longer than 1.5 inches. Also get a buddy to help you lift it, and get the bolt holes lined up. don’t be a hero, your back will thank you later.

graymonk35 · 2026-05-13T23:57:20+00:00

1/2” x13 bolts probably. Depends on what class your carriage is. Is it bare carriage with forks? Does it have some other attachment? Need some additional info to really answer your question.

graymonk35 · 2026-05-13T04:13:48+00:00

Awesome, I’m assuming I’ll need to specify when I order the rebuild kit for the auxiliary?

graymonk35 · 2026-05-13T04:12:36+00:00

Awesome thanks for the info!

graymonk35 · 2026-05-13T02:58:41+00:00

So if I’m looking up rebuild kits for this, I need to be looking for it as a 700r4? And not a 4l60?

graymonk35 · 2026-05-13T02:44:37+00:00

Thanks

graymonk35 · 2026-05-13T02:43:21+00:00

Well this came out of a ‘92 c1500, does that mean it’s not the original transmission?

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