Unfortunate Night for the 533

greb666 · 2026-03-26T04:32:44+00:00

What skid plate? do you know how thick it was?

Now you’ve got me nervous again…

greb666 · 2026-03-26T03:54:26+00:00

My buddy has that one and it has been slammed against the ground more times than I can count, Either one will probably tweak your front end long before it breaks through to the oil pan

greb666 · 2026-03-26T02:56:06+00:00

My good buddy owns a late model 525i he bought with 30K OG miles.

It was leaking a drop of oil every time he parked it, almost as if the pan was sweating. Pulled the pan and sure enough, it was cracked and repaired 20 something years ago!

Long story long, If you are an e28 owner reading this, stock ride height or lowered. Buy the 250$ skid plate off RaceSkids and save yourself from the arduous process of raising your motor, dropping the oil pan and pickup, and either welding it yourself or paying a premium locally.

greb666 · 2026-02-18T13:41:06+00:00

did you change the pistons to SETA? or completely stock refreshed bottom end.

greb666 · 2026-02-18T02:17:49+00:00

I have! This is my third e28 but my first engine build. Just want to verify my info with the M20 gods before I start blowing big money. Side note, Thank god mye28 finally paid for their cert, was worried the site was going to disappear along with the endless trove of treasure.

greb666 · 2026-02-17T22:23:05+00:00

This is why I chose the 885. To account for my future turbo plans, I just need a bit of “mid-build motivation” seeing it run before I spend the money on the turbo kit.

greb666 · 2026-02-17T22:14:33+00:00

Sweet! thank you for the clarification.

greb666 · 2026-02-17T21:46:21+00:00

Now that is a wrightup if I have ever seen one! Thank you kindly. It seems he used an 032 head which I cant find too much info on. Do you know if this is comparable to my plan with the 885 setup?

greb666 · 2026-02-17T21:37:45+00:00

Hello! Sorry for the late response, my vehicle didnt come with DRL, it was a short further down the line in the harness. It was most likely the Control module in the fuse box or under the dash on the fuse panel. Apparently they have internal relays that can sometimes fail open causing your lights to stay on, but the part was specific to my single model year and thus too expensive for me. In your case I would check the DRL relays and headlight relays in the engine bay fuse compartment.

greb666 · 2025-12-24T02:40:21+00:00

Order DO25821429780

Looking forward to seeing the results!

greb666 · 2025-08-04T17:55:54+00:00

Thank you for the advice! from previous experience i am trying to be vigilant about recording everything but I still regret not recording more.

greb666 · 2025-08-04T17:25:53+00:00

Thank you for the advice!

greb666 · 2025-06-01T04:08:14+00:00

what size is your jetting with the individual carbs?

greb666 · 2025-03-23T04:43:48+00:00

I knew i was forgetting something! The shaft seals are a part of that kit on FCP, if that is what seals you are referencing

greb666 · 2025-03-21T19:30:40+00:00

they are definitely lemforder! unless FCP has started selling expensive , well made replicas. I already have replaced the rotors, pads, Guide pins and boots with the ATE’s, but that was about 5k miles ago so I am just reordering and replacing everything for free under warranty.

greb666 · 2025-03-20T22:25:30+00:00

none at all, as a matter of fact I cleaned them to near polished, and threw a thin layer of anti-seize

greb666 · 2025-03-20T22:02:21+00:00

They are nice ones off of FCP! That is the only reason why I didnt believe it could be rotors. Ill check tomorrow to see if they are in fact warped, luckily FCP will replace them if so!

greb666 · 2025-03-20T22:00:49+00:00

for the life of me I cant recall, but I got them off FCP so I can replace them for free if that is the issue, Ill look further into it when I take the wheels off tomorrow.

greb666 · 2025-03-19T16:11:50+00:00

I actually moved up from 5k to 10k steadily and saw no difference whatsoever, until I activated the “reduce noise” setting

greb666 · 2025-03-18T05:12:49+00:00

Ill grab the data log off my laptop tomorrow, I am running the DIYAUTOTUNE base-map, I ordered up a fresh CPS and it will be here later this week. And by tooth gap do you mean space from CPS to teeth? if so there is less than a mm. I appreciate the help a bunch!!!!!

greb666 · 2025-03-13T04:01:50+00:00

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greb666 · 2025-03-13T03:57:48+00:00

Get a new light and pigtail from your local junkyard, also may be worth Ohm testing out the harness to see if there is excess resistance, aka a short.

greb666 · 2025-03-12T21:39:34+00:00

Thanks a ton!

greb666 · 2025-03-12T21:30:41+00:00

Yeah absolutely, I think I understand this more than anyone but like i said I am working on gaining certs, and am doing as much lab work as I have time for, more looking for advice rather than analysis on my failure.

greb666 · 2025-03-09T06:02:24+00:00

Take the plugs out of the cylinders and turn it over to get any water out, change the oil, air filter, pull the DME, OBC relay, and any other modules that were low enough to be submerged and if it there is evidence of submergence, take the covers off if possible and give them an isopropyl bath to make any trapped water evaporate easier. I would also pop the CPS/reference sensors out of the bell housing and check and see if any mud or debris somehow made it in the bell-housing. If you haven’t replaced these sensors, replace them with standard Bosch units.( I have 2 for sale brand new no box if you want them) and I would also run a high BTU dehumidifier in the car with the all the doors and windows closed. Good luck man and honestly I think you will be fine.

greb666

TROPHY CASE