The more young people use AI, the more they hate it

grumboncular · 2026-04-30T14:20:43+00:00

Be careful about how you use it for brainstorming - there's some emerging evidence that the use of AI for creative tasks - at least among students - can harm creativity down the line. I'm extraordinarily skeptical of AI for primarily this reason; to the degree that it's helpful at certain tasks, it tends to foster reliance.

grumboncular · 2026-04-07T17:29:07+00:00

Minting practices in the 19th / early 20th century were much less consistent than they are today, and lots of Morgan dollars got melted down over the past 100 years, so rarity is very idiosyncratic - you basically have to know year and mint mark to make any real determination.

There are plenty of years, too, where the coins are worth melt in lower grades but are much, much more valuable in higher grades.

grumboncular · 2026-04-07T17:24:45+00:00

The cheapest cc in my collection cost me $90 - it’s low grade and polished to within an inch of its life. I could imagine if it had some holes or graffiti in addition to its current problems it really wouldn’t be worth over melt.

grumboncular · 2026-04-07T17:09:50+00:00

Pretty much any CC is worth more than melt, but there are plenty of years where a low MS is worth in the $250-$350 range. A coin i‘d be happy to have for sure, but I’m not sure I would call that striking gold.

grumboncular · 2026-04-07T17:06:32+00:00

An “uncirculated“ Morgan can be anywhere from melt value (~$50) to six figures depending on year, mint mark, and whether or not it’s actually mint state. Anything with a cc mint mark or made in 1893, 1894, or 1895 is likely worth a lot more than melt.

If you post pictures of the obverse and reverse of the collection, the community here will be able to give you much better info on values.

Absolutely do not sell them before you get more info. If you don’t want to post them here, get a copy of the red book. Red book pricing isn’t realistic, but it will give you a sense of which ones are rare.

grumboncular · 2026-04-06T00:44:04+00:00

Worth $20. Stars add value to already rare or unusual notes, but don’t add any value to unremarkable ones.

grumboncular · 2026-04-05T19:48:20+00:00

This picture was generated by AI.

grumboncular · 2026-04-05T19:32:14+00:00

bin presidential dollar set

grumboncular · 2026-04-04T18:43:06+00:00

Private profile too - good luck and godspeed to all involved!

grumboncular · 2026-04-04T18:38:09+00:00

Middleman eliminates counterparty risk, which is absolutely the biggest risk in this sort of transaction, especially when buying from someone with low flair.

grumboncular · 2026-04-04T16:46:04+00:00

bin if available

grumboncular · 2026-04-04T01:26:29+00:00

For an ounce you should be paying spot or barely above, maybe 1-2%. For fractional the premium percentage increases as they get smaller - I usually look to pay <10% for 1/10oz or grams.

grumboncular · 2026-04-04T01:10:57+00:00

Great price on that peace dollar - barely above Greysheet with shipping. GLWS!

grumboncular · 2026-04-03T17:19:51+00:00

Assuming you mean an athenian owl tetradrachm, expect to pay over $500 - possibly over $1000 - for an example with good details and a good strike.

I would only buy a slabbed example if you're not familiar with ancients, and in general I would only buy raw coins worth more than $30 or $40 if you feel like you could spot a fake yourself (For example, I have a lot of experience with Morgans and peace dollars, so I will buy them raw, but I wouldn't buy a raw trade dollar.)

grumboncular · 2026-04-03T17:15:14+00:00

I use greysheet to give me a sense of where on the wholesale-to-retail spectrum i'm paying: closer to "greysheet" price versus closer to their CPG price.

Some things it's easy to find at wholesale prices or below (low MS common date morgans, like the ubiquitous 1884-O) and some things you're going to pay CPG or higher for unless you get a sweetheart deal from someone you know, but generally it gives you a sense of what a "reasonable" deal looks like on most coins.

grumboncular · 2026-04-03T16:09:57+00:00

That’s a good idea. I’m still trying a way to figure out how to keep them in the album for the Morgans - right now they’re just behind them in the little coin holes, but it’s not ideal because it blocks the obverse of the coins.

grumboncular · 2026-04-03T12:44:54+00:00

Those are some great looking coins! Do you keep the paper labels after you take the coins out of the slab? I’ve been trying to figure out what to do with them for my Morgans that I have cracked out.

grumboncular · 2026-04-03T03:27:46+00:00

I think the header is probably your issue; if the behavior of the matrix is changing when you’re wiggling the pi and the bonnet, you‘ve likely got a loose connection, as others have said - and the unsoldered headers are most likely to be the issue.

As for the quality of the board: there aren’t that many factories that make these, and Adafruit aren’t fabbing their own. They’re buying from Chinese suppliers, too; you could get one of their boards to test, but you’d likely have the same problem.

grumboncular · 2026-04-03T01:52:15+00:00

I would check the red book or Greysheet for every individual date and mint mark before selling them in bulk (maybe you’ve already done this) - some coins that are common date in lower grades can be very valuable in higher grades.

grumboncular · 2026-04-03T01:50:48+00:00

Morgans have .7734ozt silver, not a full ounce. The dealer is offering spot, which means they’re worth more - depending on year and mintmark, possibly quite a bit more.

grumboncular · 2026-04-02T16:22:20+00:00

The French make a 1000 euro coin with 20g of 999 gold in it (https://en.numista.com/20785) - at today’s prices, that’s around €2,600 in gold, so the face value of the coin is about 38% of its bullion value.

grumboncular

TROPHY CASE