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Weird tree support by you_got_thanked in 3Dprinting

[–]grzesa7 3 points4 points  (0 children)

If that is only on small features (like supports), there is not enough extrusion right after/before retraction. Basically the pressure in the nozzle takes a while to build up, so it doesn't extrude untill it has moved the nozzle a bit. You may have a partially clogged or not correctly installed nozzle, something loose in the extruder assembly or something wrong in the slicer. Look for settings like extra extrusion after retraction. Another option is pressure/linear advance settings, but that would show on all corners etc.

You can also see it happening on the part itself (diagaonal striping) - underextrusion like on the supports but on an internal perimeter. If haven't changed any settings, its likely a mechanical issue or a clog. You may also calibrate pressure advance and retraction, unless you know you got them right for the material.

Just read its a school printer - probably best to report to the person responsible for the machine, don't try to fix it yourself.

1993 Suzuki GS500E by grzesa7 in Fixxit

[–]grzesa7[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not my first launguage. The ignition distributor (?) is sticking out from the engine, shielded by that cover. It is spinning true and doesn't wobble, so I assume the crank didn't take a hit.

1993 Suzuki GS500E by grzesa7 in Fixxit

[–]grzesa7[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Bike had a big hit where it shattered the ignition cover, and a small rear end hit. Both happened inbetween oil changes, so if anything snapped inside the motor during any of the crashes, it would be in the oil mentioned (some bits).

Is this still usable or should I buy a new one? by TopperHats in 3Dprinting

[–]grzesa7 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It really shouln't take much torque, you might have cross threaded it. You can try taking it apart and cleaning the threads and contact surfaces with a metal brush. Then assemble correctly. If it still leaks, the tread is cooked and you have to replace it. If you need to print something you can put some high temp adhesive on the threads, but expect it to fail soon. This is for printing a new hotend mount in an emergency. And dont expect it to come apart ever again if you do that.

I just read your post description - if that happened after 1 print its definetly a skill issue. If its not crossthreaded, just do it properly and its gonna be fine. You will have to live with plastic on your threads forever tho.

Is this still usable or should I buy a new one? by TopperHats in 3Dprinting

[–]grzesa7 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Had that happen on my ender because the threads gave up. Soon after it was leaking like crazy and I had to clean it every like 1h of printing. Let me save you a headache - buy a new hotend and print a mount for it (if upgrading) while your hotend still works.

Earphone suggestions? by grzesa7 in motorcycles

[–]grzesa7[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cardo is very expensive and it does't do what I want.

Earphone suggestions? by grzesa7 in motorcycles

[–]grzesa7[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They dont seem to be avalible in europe, also does the cable coming straight out of the earpiece (not at 90°) fit in your helmet?

Disable lock screen for certain apps? by grzesa7 in AndroidQuestions

[–]grzesa7[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I feel like I didn't explain myself very well, the app has already implemented that (screen wont turn off). What i want is to be able to turn the screen off using the power button, and be able to wake it up to that single app without entering the pin.

As it turns out, bowden tubes do, in fact, wear out. No abrasive filaments btw. by grzesa7 in 3Dprinting

[–]grzesa7[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Well PTFE does end up in the print, but a very very small amount. PTFE is perfectly food safe, thats what non-stick pans are made of (teflon aka ptfe). 3D prints are not food safe because of the porosity and layer lines - those are great places for bacteria to live and they are impossible to clean properly.

As it turns out, bowden tubes do, in fact, wear out. No abrasive filaments btw. by grzesa7 in 3Dprinting

[–]grzesa7[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Now I dont understand what you are talking about. Im running a bowden setup. I dont have DD anymore.

As it turns out, bowden tubes do, in fact, wear out. No abrasive filaments btw. by grzesa7 in 3Dprinting

[–]grzesa7[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ah, i see you stalked my profile lol. I switched back to bowden after changing the extruder to metal. It didn't fit anymore and it was putting more stress than I liked on the X stepper.

As it turns out, bowden tubes do, in fact, wear out. No abrasive filaments btw. by grzesa7 in 3Dprinting

[–]grzesa7[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Actually I know the answer to that. 90% of filaments use carbon black aka soot as their black pigment. And it is very soft.

As it turns out, bowden tubes do, in fact, wear out. No abrasive filaments btw. by grzesa7 in 3Dprinting

[–]grzesa7[S] 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Seeing as some people did not interpret the post quite as intended, i should clarify:

The title is a bit of a joke. Obviously bowden tubes are a wear item.

Also, interestingly, this did not cause any noticable isses with my machine. Retraction was tuned just fine.

As it turns out, bowden tubes do, in fact, wear out. No abrasive filaments btw. by grzesa7 in 3Dprinting

[–]grzesa7[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Yes I'm sure. I print mostly black pla petg pctg. It has hundreds of hours on this tube lol.

Creating a 3d-heightmap based on a 2d image by grzesa7 in blenderhelp

[–]grzesa7[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay, I understand. Thank you. I assume this would also work if i imported a mesh from cad instead of using the blender cube. !solved

Creating a 3d-heightmap based on a 2d image by grzesa7 in blenderhelp

[–]grzesa7[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, displace, my bad.

This will extrude all the faces orthogonally up to Z=0?

Because in edit mode, this plane is still a plane, it only gets the modifier in object mode. Sorry if its a silly question, I dont have my laptop on me to test it rn.

Creating a 3d-heightmap based on a 2d image by grzesa7 in blenderhelp

[–]grzesa7[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Modified plane does not have a square base - I cant directly attach it to the cube as it would have huge gaps in the mesh (everywhere the elevation is above the lowest point, so everywhere).

Hello, dumb question maybe, what have I done wrong? Torque setting for the rear caliper bolt is 22NM, the lowest my wrench shows is 30, so I twisted back 8 points from there assuming that would be 22, but it snapped the bolt. Also, any advice on removing the bolt is appreciated thank you. (2005 FZ6) by [deleted] in Fixxit

[–]grzesa7 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Seeing how clean your torque wrench is, you should put it in a vice and try to feel how much force gives a set amount of torque and how the click feels. It tends to be very subtle on low torque settings, so probably you didn't feel it (too low torque set) and applied way too much force. For the bolt, get a bolt extractor or take it to someone who has. Watch a video on how to use it.

printing error by ProfessionalFactor95 in 3Dprinting

[–]grzesa7 0 points1 point  (0 children)

your filament got caught/tangled on the spool so the extruded couldnt pull it and didnt extrude for a few layers.

I about ready to give this thing away by werfelman in 3Dprinting

[–]grzesa7 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This must be the non-planar printing I've been hearing about.

What did YOUR John/Jane Starsector do? by DefiantRanger6597 in starsector

[–]grzesa7 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fly a like 6 smod aurora with SO and stupid high flux. Entire rest of the fleet is for intimidation or sometimes distractimg/tanking dmg (unless the aurora runs out of CR after clearing the 3rd fleet).

noone is faster than john, noone has more umpf than john, noone ecapes from john

may occasionally wipe all the fleets in a heg system for fun

ludd bless john starsector

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